Cement floor for run, deep litter method, silkies

Disecky

Chirping
Jun 27, 2020
65
48
91
BerkshireCounty Western MA
We are trying to finish our chicken setup and are wondering if putting a cement floor down in the 8x8 run is the best idea. The coop is 4x8x8. I have tons of fresh local woodchips mixed with leaves. Deep litter method is my goal. will having cement entail more frequent cleaning? We live in New England. Run will have roof, and hardware cloth wrap, gaps covered.

I am planning on 8-12 chickens. With one being a roo.
5 are silkies,
3 lavender Orpington,
1 blue Orpington,
1 sexlink,
1 Easter Egger,
1 lace wyandotte.
I am waiting to see sex of the silkies so this number might drop. I can reduce the number if this is too many chickens for my space. Not sure if I will be able to free range.
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Cement in the run will prevent normal chicken behaviors like dust bathing and scratching around. It will be harder on their feet.

I advise against it.

An 8x8 run is pretty small. I would not put more than 6 chickens in that space. Your coop size is ok for 8 chickens maximum. I would just house 6 in it though because feed dishes, nest boxes and anything else sitting in the coop takes away valuable floor space.
 
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it very much. The coop has built in bump outs for the food and nest boxes. So the base of the coop is actually 7 feet wide. But I can see this run is way to small. I am hoping to be able to let them free roam while I am home. I have 100 feet of hardware cloth planning to make a safe run area. We live next to lake and woods, so I am nervous about predators.
 
The only advantage to a concrete floor in the run is that it is proof against digging predators. But it has so many other disadvantages that I would not want one myself.

Concrete is incompatible with Deep Litter, which does best with bare ground contact to ensure a proper balance of composting bacteria, fungi, and organisms.
 
Better to do aprons on outside (less expense,too). Then do your DLM directly on the ground. You can always extend your dog panel run to make larger or utilize chicken tractors to get the birds out.

I just bought the Rugged Ranch front side w/ gate & 5' extension to put on the fronts of our CP hooped coops. Now, just need to do the work of removing from the current rotting base(s), moving the hoop out 2' to accommodate the 10' front (from current 8') and raise it up 1.5-2' and put in new base(s) that will not be wood anymore down here. LOL. I will be doing 3 have an extra 5' extension panel so could build a 4th... I haven't done it yet, but keep admiring my new fronts for my coops! Will have to move them out of my horse trailer soon - may be moving the daughter/SIL & grands from NC to MT in the next month. Actually, I really need to get the fronts DONE as would be easier for my helper when I leave.

Would like to see more of set up.
 
Agreed that concrete is not the best choice here, as it works against deep litter method. Also agree that run can hold about 6 chickens max. Could you possibly expand it (hate bringing it up since it's obvious you build it nicely into the framing at the bottom there)? Free ranging can help with a crowded run but if it's only a couple hours a day, or a few hours every few days, that will not be enough, as the chickens would still be spending majority of time in too little space.
 
Our roofed coop/ run combination structure is on an old concrete floor, with deep bedding, and it's great. For a big run, properly draining dirt, with deep litter, works very well. It does need a dig-proof perimeter if the floor isn't concrete.
Your run, as shown, has a very shallow pitch, and half is running towards the building. This will not be good, with rain, or especially snow. Turn it so snow runs away from buildings, if possible, and consider snow load carefully. Will you be out there at 2am removing snow so it doesn't collapse?
I agree about the size, everything is small for the numbers you are planning to have. Especially the Silkies, who may not do well at all with the big birds, can't fly, and have difficulties with cold.
Mary
 
Our roofed coop/ run combination structure is on an old concrete floor, with deep bedding, and it's great. For a big run, properly draining dirt, with deep litter, works very well. It does need a dig-proof perimeter if the floor isn't concrete.
Your run, as shown, has a very shallow pitch, and half is running towards the building. This will not be good, with rain, or especially snow. Turn it so snow runs away from buildings, if possible, and consider snow load carefully. Will you be out there at 2am removing snow so it doesn't collapse?
I agree about the size, everything is small for the numbers you are planning to have. Especially the Silkies, who may not do well at all with the big birds, can't fly, and have difficulties with cold.
Mary
I am going to limited my birds now to 6-8 max.
We are not done with our build, adding supports, roof, gutters, which will be attached to building, apron, gravel moat for drainage.

I am worried about the silkies and cold but am confused because I am reading post from others not having trouble with very cold winters and silkies. I have also read heat is not recommended but can add if its really needed.

If bullying becomes an issue I will make adjustments. Thanks for the advice.
 
Cement in the run will prevent normal chicken behaviors like dust bathing and scratching around. It will be harder on their feet.

I advise against it.

An 8x8 run is pretty small. I would not put more than 6 chickens in that space. Your coop size is ok for 8 chickens maximum. I would just house 6 in it though because feed dishes, nest boxes and anything else sitting in the coop takes away valuable floor space.
Had terrible migraine today, while I was down and out, my husband went out and built an extension and filled to give me more land to work with. Going for fence and free ranging
 

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