Chainsaws

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I have a big rope, and a 14 inch blade, and have yet to hit a vehicle with a tree. Your spose to move the truck and tie the rope to it so the trees go where you want them.
 
I use a Husqy...love it...I am a fan of longer blades...less chance of getting it caught in a wedge if you aren't as experienced...the type of chain makes a huge difference...but with more aggression comes more chance to loose control...look at the functions...my buddy got a ne Poulan and it has a neat little wheel thingy to tighten the chain...I have to hold mine upside down sideways with my tongue sticking out to get the stupid screwdriver to that little screw covered in shavings and oil and...yeah! In the end...all go voom...all cut...put a bow on it and he will be like I have the coolest wife in the world!
 
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I have a big rope, and a 14 inch blade, and have yet to hit a vehicle with a tree. Your spose to move the truck and tie the rope to it so the trees go where you want them.

There's the other issue though. When you use a rope, you also need to make sure that you have a rope longer than the tree is tall. Otherwise, your going to flatten the truck everytime!
 
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Come on I wasnt born and raised in the NE, What I lack in bar length I make up with a LONG rope.
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I have a Husqvarna 345e (45 cc) with an 18" bar. I like the features (vibration dampening, easy start, chain brake -that is probably standard), feel of the controls, and feel that it has enough power for me - I enjoy using it.

What you are going to be using the saw for is the most important thing to figure out. I knew that I wanted to start cutting more of my own wood 2-3 cords a year hardwood mostly under 15" diameter. So I knew that I did not need a professional model saw (I can't imagine how many cords you would need to cut to make a living at it) and I have had problems with the least expensive gas powered tools in the past, so I got a saw that was in the middle of the range.
I consider it to be a high end homeowner's saw. - which is kind of silly because it is capable of cutting a tree that is somewhere under 3' in diameter (I might be crying if I had to cut a tree of mine that big down) and most homeowners have to have pretty much anything more than a branch removed need to hire a pro with insurance just incase it takes out the power for the block or the neighbor's porch. Maybe it should be a small woodlot saw.

For near the house I would be more likely to drag out a cord for my Remington pole mounted saw - 10" electric with removable extending handle - which surprisingly can cut a 10" oak- so I can delimb (without climbing with an anchor) before falling to reduce damage to other trees, and I don't worry about putting it away hot. But the neighbors might laugh.

It may be helpful to go to Amazon and read the reviews. Don't take the bad ones a gospel though... the cheaper the saw the more that are sold and IMO many of the negative commenters would not have been happy if they had a NASA grade saw (big logjams in space to clean up sometimes).
 
In my case I'm looking for the lightest easiest to handle saw with enough power to do a lot of work. I have an Echo 346 with a 16" bar. This a 7 pound saw. Makes a lot of difference when you are a bit long in the tooth. I've been clearing land for the past 2 years and have gone through about 60' of chain 5 bars, and an equal amount of sprockets.
 
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Big Blade envy it gets to the best of us, and no one picks on him because its GREEN???

No my husband is a big guy 6'2" and it's easier to handle then the shorter ones. It's yellow not green and I dont think he would care since he drive a hyundi that this off ugly purple color. LOL we call it the barney mobile but for $800 you can't be picky it gets him from point A to point B at 42 mpg.
 
It depends on how you intend to use the saw that would be the determining factor in which one to buy. If you have big trees to cut, buy a big saw, small trees small saw.

I have a Stihl mini boss with a 16" bar for light work, removing branches and small trees. Its a good suburban homeowner type saw.

For the heavy work I have an older Husky SE 66 (66cc) with a 36" bar, and a cast iron cylinder. It has so much compression that I can't hold the saw in one hand and pull the rope with the other, I have to hook my foot through the trigger guard and pull the rope with the saw sitting on the ground. It has an idle like a high end racing dirt bike, very distinctive sound and with a good chisel point chain it barely slows down going through big trees.
Its not a saw you want to work with all day unless you are a big stong person because it weighs a lot.

I've cut down a 4 1/2' diameter oak tree with no problem, and cut a 110' tall pine.

I've owned McCulloughs, craftsmans and poulans too but I'd rate the Husky #1 and Stihl #2

Some features worth considering on any saw would be a chain brake, spark arrester, electronic ignition and a sprocket tipped bar.
 
The Stihl and Husky are definitely worth the higher cost. But then I was raised with the adage, you get what you pay for. I have had a Stihl with a 16" bar since about 1979 and it is still running. I just bought a larger Stihl with an 18" bar. I work for the Forest Service and just about all the saws I've seen with the Forest Service are Stihls. I would not own a Poulon or McCulloch or Echo. In fact if you can buy it off the shelf at Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. I probably wouldn't buy it. I've been happy with chain saw shops. They are more specialized and should know what they are talking about. The other stores you are most likely getting someone that is there just for the paycheck.

He would be happy with either Stihl or Husky. Unless he is going to be doing some heavy duty work an 18" bar should be sufficient. If he is doing light work, some small tree cutting and branch trimming then the 16" bar should be sufficient.
 

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