Chicken coop build questions

[Aocskasy]

I live in CT and I’m new to chickens. My daughter just got her first chicks so she can learn some responsibility. I’m in the process of building our coop now but have run into issues with the details. It’s a 4x8 coop with a 8x16 run. Our flock is currently 2 Buff Brahmas, 2 Plymouth Rocks, 2 Easter Eggers, and a Buff Orpington. I plan to expand it next year if all goes well. I’ve done a bunch of research but can’t seem to get a straight answer. I have several questions that I would appreciate feedback on.

1. Do I need to insulate the coop? There will be no electricity/heat source (although an extension cord will be used to keep water from freezing in winter).

2. Top opening or front opening nest box door? There will be an external nest box on the left side of the coop. I was going to do a top door but am worried about water issues. My main concern about a front opening door is the hens will get out when my daughter collects the eggs.

3. Will the openings between the header above the door and roof (the spaces between the rafters) provide the correct amount of ventilation? The same openings are on the back (lower) side of the coop. I was planning on putting hardware mesh over them. Additional windows will be cut in but the question pertains more to winter when the windows will be shut.

Sorry about the long post but as I mentioned, this is my first attempt at backyard chickens. Thank you in advance for any advice.

 

[rosemarythyme]

1. No you don't, unless you're in an extreme climate (i.e. arctic).

2. Front opening because it's easier to exclude rain as you note. I don't think chickens escaping from nest boxes is a common issue. Pretty much once they sit down to lay, they'll stay there unless forced out.

3. How big are those openings? Are those the only vents? My guess is going to be no, it won't be enough. Will the run be roofed? If so, you could add a lot more ventilation to the wall facing into the roof as that provides some climate protection. I'd also suggest adding windows, not only for ventilation, but to allow natural light inside so the birds will want to use the coop.

One extra thing, are you planning to allow the birds to use the space under the coop? Keep in mind you may need to get access to the underside to grab injured birds, hidden eggs, for general maintenance... is there enough clearance that you can access the space?

 

[Aocskasy]

1. No you don't, unless you're in an extreme climate (i.e. arctic).

2. Front opening because it's easier to exclude rain as you note. I don't think chickens escaping from nest boxes is a common issue. Pretty much once they sit down to lay, they'll stay there unless forced out.

3. How big are those openings? Are those the only vents? My guess is going to be no, it won't be enough. Will the run be roofed? If so, you could add a lot more ventilation to the wall facing into the roof as that provides some climate protection. I'd also suggest adding windows, not only for ventilation, but to allow natural light inside so the birds will want to use the coop.

One extra thing, are you planning to allow the birds to use the space under the coop? Keep in mind you may need to get access to the underside to grab injured birds, hidden eggs, for general maintenance... is there enough clearance that you can access the space?

Thanks for the quick reply. The 3 openings across the front and back are each 3 1/2” x 14”. Yes, the run is going to be covered (shade in summer, keep run free of heavy snow in winter). There is going to be a window on the back of the coop and on the left side above the nest box. The openings are framed but not yet cut into the actual siding (it’s a work in progress). The space under the coop is at least 24” so I do have access to the area. The picture is deceiving because I excavated into the hill in front of it to get a somewhat level run. There is a small retaining wall not shown in the photo.

 

[BarnyardChaos]

I live in CT and I’m new to chickens. My daughter just got her first chicks so she can learn some responsibility.

Welcome to both of you!!! I'm so glad you joined the conversation and showed us your coop in progress. I look forward to hearing your stories and seeing photos of your chickens!

I’m in the process of building our coop now but have run into issues with the details. It’s a 4x8 coop with a 8x16 run. Our flock is currently 2 Buff Brahmas, 2 Plymouth Rocks, 2 Easter Eggers, and a Buff Orpington. I plan to expand it next year if all goes well.

Congrats on building your own coop! A 32 sq ft coop is fine for 7 chickens, but you'll need to expand it or add another before you add more chickens. You need to plan on about 4 sq ft of floor space per chicken.

1. Do I need to insulate the coop? There will be no electricity/heat source (although an extension cord will be used to keep water from freezing in winter).

No insulation is needed. As long as they're not where a draft can blow on or under them, their feathers are incredibly insulating and they'll be fine even in the single digit temps.

2. Top opening or front opening nest box door? There will be an external nest box on the left side of the coop. I was going to do a top door but am worried about water issues. My main concern about a front opening door is the hens will get out when my daughter collects the eggs.

To each his or her own, but my vote is or a top-opening door. A chicken is more likely to startle and fly out at you (or your daughter) from the front of the box than out the top. If you make the lid slightly larger than the nesting boxes, rain will run off the edges. You can add a rubber seal at the hinge side to keep water from seeping in. Be sure to add a secure latch so raccoons don't turn it into their diner.

3. Will the openings between the header above the door and roof (the spaces between the rafters) provide the correct amount of ventilation? The same openings are on the back (lower) side of the coop. I was planning on putting hardware mesh over them.

If my math is correct, those vents under the roof at front and back come to about 2 sq ft total of ventilation. That's enough for TWO chickens. They will need about 1 sq ft of ventilation per bird.

You see, chickens produce a ton of manure and moisture. That manure produces ammonia fumes, which can cause respiratory issues. Excess moisture leads to frostbite and breeds mites and lice. That moisture and ammonia NEED to vent out, 24/7/365 - through permanent vents. Again, put your ventilation up high, above their heads, so drafts don't blow on the chickens. Those vents will pull warm, moist air up and out, and your chickens will stay warm and dry in their fluffy feather coats.

It's easy, though - you can cut some vents near the roof on one or both sides or ends, and either cover them with hardware cloth, or add louver house vents to keep rain out. I like the idea of adding a roof vent or two. OR... when you add the windows, plan so that you can open them at the TOP to keep air flow above the chickens' heads (no drafts!) or have a way to adjust how much air you wish to allow in. You can add a simple plywood awning over the window to keep driving rain out. Hardware cloth is correct; cover every opening.

Additional windows will be cut in but the question pertains more to winter when the windows will be shut.

If you have adequate vents elsewhere, you can keep the windows closed in winter. If not, like I said above, plan windows that open from the top. Chickens really only need a window to see when it's daylight, and to find their roosts at dusk.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Thanks for the quick reply. The 3 openings across the front and back are each 3 1/2” x 14”.

Ok, so that yields a total of around 2 sq ft. So yes you'll want more ventilation, around 1 sq ft per bird. Since you mentioned framing out for windows already, I'd give some consideration to also adding a large vent on the wall of the coop facing into the run.

The space under the coop is at least 24” so I do have access to the area. The picture is deceiving because I excavated into the hill in front of it to get a somewhat level run. There is a small retaining wall not shown in the photo.

Good to know, the grass is a little tall in the front so it made the space under the coop look like 10" perhaps, which would be very hard to access (you may still want to consider adding an access door from the side to the underside area, unless you don't mind sending kids in there to crawl in the dirt).

 

[Aocskasy]

Here are some pictures of the interior. You can see the window opening in the back and on the left above the nest box framing. The windows were going to be a double hung (back) and slider (left) that I have leftover from a construction job I did. Would you recommend changing the back to just a permanent opening below the header (think 12” x 40”) and eliminating the window? A corresponding cutout can be made in the top of the door.

The back side and left are where I get the prevailing winds. It blows quite a bit since I live at the top of a hill. I could also cut holes on the right side (facing the run) towards the back and front. They would be covered by the roof. I really appreciate all the feedback and am glad I posted this now before making any holes in the siding.

 

[aart]

I only skimmed the posts above so may have missed it, but I hope you are planning more roof going over the sides of the coop.

I live in CT

Oh, and... Welcome to BYC! @Aocskasy
Here's how to add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Sueby]

I think everyone above has covered most everything but I wanted to add a couple things as I'm here in CT as well...

Definitely don't need insulation. If vented properly you will not have issues. My windows stay open 100% of the time & I stuff furnace filters in them in the winter to allow for air, but to block any breeze or blowing snow.

Good ventilation is the key to healthy chickens.

 

[mowin]

Not sure where you plan on putting your roosts, figure 1' per bird. They NEED space to access and more important, to leave the roost. They need room to pitch off with a soft landing. If they have to hop off from too high, they have a good chance of bumble foot or other injuries. I'd plan on a ramp with cleats for them to use to access the roost.

 

[Aocskasy]

Not sure where you plan on putting your roosts, figure 1' per bird. They NEED space to access and more important, to leave the roost. They need room to pitch off with a soft landing. If they have to hop off from too high, they have a good chance of bumble foot or other injuries. I'd plan on a ramp with cleats for them to use to access the roost.

How high off the floor would you say for the roost bars? Coop is designed for deep litter method but during warmer months there will be less bedding. Height to the top of nesting box opening (height I planned to mount roosting bars) is roughly 26”. Was going to have three 4’ bars (side to side) roughly 1’ apart in the back half of the coop. Pop door will be near the front of the right side 10” off the floor so it remains accessible when doing deep litter. Small ramp to door for during the summer. This picture I found online is similar to what I’m planning.