Choosing Which Rooster to Keep

CChris, Quality heritage breeds are a lot different than regular hatchery stock. I raise S.O.P. (Standard Of Perfection) Black Australorps. I can't say that they develop at a slower rate exactly, but their development is entirely different than that of hatchery stock. My males have to reach 9 lbs. It's not just the weight. They have to develop a good frame, then the musculature, and fill out properly too. There is a significant difference between a 6 month old cockerel, and a year old rooster. Everyone talks about their hatchery Black Australorps laying in 3 months, or so. Mine don't begin laying until they are at least 6 months old.

While that seems like a long time to wait, my hens are not spent in 2 years. I get 3 - 4 good years of production. I have a 6 year old that has slowed down, but she laid good for the first 2 months this spring. She's currently slowed down to a couple times a week. At 5 years old, she and her sister laid daily for the first 3 months in spring, then about every other day for a few months, then a couple times a week. Not bad for old hens. My roosters are active, and fertile longer than hatchery stock too.
 
Last edited:
I've always given Manna Pro Gamebird/Showbird feed, 24% protein, until the pullets reach point of lay. Just before they get ready to lay, I switch to Purina Flock Raiser 20% protein feed, and give oyster shell on the side. The higher protein was great for growing them out, but I found it to be a bit too much once they were laying. It interfered with their laying. After speaking with a few of the breeders, at some of the shows, several of the better breeders were talking about how the 20% seems to work just as good. The batch I'm raising now, are on Purina Flock Raiser feed at 20% protein.

The females I was NOT going to show, but wanted eating eggs from, I put on Manna Pro Layer crumbles when they began laying. It's 16% protein, and I had used it for years. A couple years ago, I noticed a big drop in production. Another problem seems to be more connected with the Florida granary they use, but during the summer, the crumbles were half crumbles, half flour. It was bad enough, I returned several bags to the feed store. The owner, and I got into a discussion about it. He said he too had used the Manna Pro Layer crumbles for years, and like me, he had noticed a drop in production, and quality. He was having to return bags of Manna Pro back to his supplier, due to it being too powdery, and customer complaints. He changed his flock over to Purina Egg Maker crumbles, and production went back up. In addition, the crumbles were not powdered. He began recommending that to his customers instead.

It makes me wonder, if there is enough decline in some of the Manna Pro line, that it's now equal, or inferior to other brands. They didn't drop the price, just the quality.

During molt, I give canned cat food, or canned mackerel as a treat, about 3 times a week. Boosting their protein level, especially with animal protein, during molt, really makes a difference.
CChris, Quality heritage breeds are a lot different than regular hatchery stock. I raise S.O.P. (Standard Of Perfection) Black Australorps. I can't say that they develop at a slower rate exactly, but their development is entirely different than that of hatchery stock. My males have to reach 9 lbs. It's not just the weight. They have to develop a good frame, then the musculature, and fill out properly too. There is a significant difference between a 6 month old cockerel, and a year old rooster. Everyone talks about their hatchery Black Australorps laying in 3 months, or so. Mine don't begin laying until they are at least 6 months old.

While that seems like a long time to wait, my hens are not spent in 2 years. I get 3 - 4 good years of production. I have a 6 year old that has slowed down, but she laid good for the first 2 months this spring. She's currently slowed down to a couple times a week. At 5 years old, she and her sister laid daily for the first 3 months in spring, then about every other day for a few months, then a couple times a week. Not bad for old hens. My roosters are active, and fertile longer than hatchery stock too.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm getting at. As with all things, I need patience and practice. My goal with my mini-farm is to grow heritage seeds and breeds all organic in a sustainable way--organic isn't always possible with livestock.

I moved up to Saint Augustine because it is the ancient city, so bit of a history buff here. My neighbor is getting a Florida Cracker sheep herd going.

I'm in love with my breed. Everyone who knows production chickens who sees my Crèvecœurs immediately wants some, so I know I have local enthusiasts who will want my "culls". I'm not expecting eggs for several months, and I'm not in a hurry.

So starting slowly and will probably only add Greenfire Farms chicks to my program beyond what I can produce (not aware of a better closer breeder and Greenfire is both best and close).

And I love your breed! I'd love to see photos of your chickens and setup.

I'm feeling a bit paralyzed by options for a build. My tractor has a coop in the rafters with an open design and heavy roof. I'm thinking of an expanded permanent version, plus another tractor--they are fine with containment, need the predator protection, and adore fresh grass/weeds!
 
My set up is fairly simple. I have an Rcom incubator. Early Spring, put eggs in it. Don't wait too late in the season. I have several totes, in several sizes. I took small pieces of wood, and a router, to make a track on one side of each piece of wood. I used small nuts, and bolts to attach it to the top, outer edge of the totes. I took wire mesh, cut it to size, and slide it in the tracks, to cover the top of the brooders. I also have multiple dog crates, mostly medium, and extra large, with extra bottom trays. They start in the totes, and graduate into larger sizes, as needed. I use Rubbermaid shelf liner, cut to fit the bottoms of the totes. Get the waffled kind. It elevates the chicks out of water they might spill, gives them traction, and they don't get specks of it in their eyes, or eat it, as with shavings.

I took PVC, and made stands for my heat lamps. The base is wide enough I can slide one end of a big dog crate under the lamp, if needed.
022.JPG


There is a hook, and S hooks on the top, so I can attach a chain to help stabilize the lamp.
030.JPG


The standing pipe, detaches, and the whole thing can be easily stored.
 
My set up is fairly simple. I have an Rcom incubator. Early Spring, put eggs in it. Don't wait too late in the season. I have several totes, in several sizes. I took small pieces of wood, and a router, to make a track on one side of each piece of wood. I used small nuts, and bolts to attach it to the top, outer edge of the totes. I took wire mesh, cut it to size, and slide it in the tracks, to cover the top of the brooders. I also have multiple dog crates, mostly medium, and extra large, with extra bottom trays. They start in the totes, and graduate into larger sizes, as needed. I use Rubbermaid shelf liner, cut to fit the bottoms of the totes. Get the waffled kind. It elevates the chicks out of water they might spill, gives them traction, and they don't get specks of it in their eyes, or eat it, as with shavings.

I took PVC, and made stands for my heat lamps. The base is wide enough I can slide one end of a big dog crate under the lamp, if needed.
View attachment 2205261

There is a hook, and S hooks on the top, so I can attach a chain to help stabilize the lamp.
View attachment 2205265

The standing pipe, detaches, and the whole thing can be easily stored.

Really clever! I have used mess-sided dog playpens for air flow and they are dusty. Would like to get a broody Silkie since chicks can be outside year round here.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom