Classes of wormers

Discussion in 'Peafowl' started by Trefoil, Mar 30, 2016.

  1. Trefoil

    Trefoil Chillin' With My Peeps

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    I will only post about the first 3 classes because I don't believe 4 &5 are of much use. This is from the guinea forum yrs ago.

    Class I anthelmintics
    : Benzimidazoles and pro-
    benzimidazoles. These drugs exert their action on the
    intracellular polymerization of the tubulin molecules to
    microtubules. As the cellular functions are disrupted, the
    worms die. Examples of Class I compounds are
    albendazole, thiabendazole, fenbendazole, parbendazole,
    flubendazole, febantel, and thiophanate. Here is what to
    buy to use this class, Valbazen, Panacur or Safeguard. I
    buy the Safeguard 10% suspension from TSC (goat
    wormer) and use 2.5cc/gallon of drinking water. This class
    of anthelmintics is best for gapeworm; the other classes
    don't work too well for gapeworm.
    Class II anthelmintics
    : Imidazothiazoles and
    tetrahydropyrimidines. These drugs act on the
    acetylcholine receptor in the neuromuscular system of the
    worms causing a persistent depolarization of muscle cells
    and a spastic paralysis of the worms, which are then
    removed by gut motility. Examples of Class II drugs are
    levamisole, pyrantel, and morantel. Here is what to buy to
    use this class wormer. TSC sells Tramisol or Levamisole
    in a powder. It is in a 20 oz. bottle that contains just a little
    powder. You are supposed to fill the bottle with water and
    then use the mixed concentrate to add to the drinking
    water. The mixed solution is good for 3 months. I wouldn't
    use that much concentrate in years. I use 1/4
    teaspoon/gallon of drinking water for three days. The
    actual dosage is supposed to be closer to 1/3 of a
    teaspoon, but you can overdose your birds with this one.
    You can overdose with them all, but this one can be very
    dangerous.
    Class III anthelmintics
    : Avermectins and milbymicins.
    The compounds act on the nervous system of the worms,
    causing flaccid paralysis and removal by gut motility. Class
    III consists of two distinct types of drugs, i.e. the erazines
    and the avermectins (ivermectin, doramectin, moxidectin),
    the latter having effects against some ectoparasites, e.g.
    mange mites. Most people use the ivermectin from this
    class. Many use the ivermectin injectable and put
    5cc/gallon of water. I use Eqvalan,
    which is the same
    ingredient as the ivermectin injectable, but it is water-
    soluble. Same dosage, 5cc/gallon of drinking water.
    As you can see, not all wormers will kill all kinds of worms.
    When giving wormers it is best to remove their water
    supply about midday the day before you are going to give it
    to them. The next day mix up the wormer and give it to
    your birds (this works best for me). That way they are
    thirsty and will get a good bit right off the bat.
    If you are going to give orally make sure you do not drown
    the bird.
    Draw the wormer in the syringe and then draw
    some water to mix with it I hold the bird between my legs facing outward. Open
    the beak and with a syringe with a 3” piece of
    aquarium air tubing on the
    end of it stick it down the
    throat on the right side of the trachea; then administer
    dosage
     
  2. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member

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    Lots of issues with the dosing info...

    -Kathy
     
  3. barkerg

    barkerg Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Im getting my popcorn ready.[​IMG]

    Gerald Barker
     
  4. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member

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    Haven't enough peas died from this Safeguard and ivermectin thing? Do I really need to go find all the posts, studies and pictures again?

    -Kathy
     
  5. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member

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  6. barkerg

    barkerg Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Ive changed my worming techniques so I agree.

    @Trefoil not trying to step on your toes but Ive gotta chime in with some info in regards to Safeguard that I learned from right here at BYC.

    The old school method I was using went out the window after joining BYC and reading the great info that can be found here. What really changed my mind is the fecal float thread and I must thank the people who have put a lot of time and money in helping others by getting the right info out. I no longer use the 3cc safeguard to 1gl of water as it does just settle to the bottom of the waterer as it is NOT water soluble and it takes a tremendous amount to get a good ratio an adult pea needs. I have since switched to Valbazen which is water soluble and I use 6cc to 1gl for 5 days with a repeat 10 days later, I primarily raise Greens so catching them is not even considered so meds in waterers are a must and Ive had no issues so far. I keep the safeguard handy for birds that might get ill and need some down the throat but I no longer mix it in the water. This is what works for me.

    Gerald Barker
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2016
  7. Trefoil

    Trefoil Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Sorry about that. I didn't even look at the dosage info before posting, although I did point out that it was years out of date, which doesn't make any difference in the information on classes.
     
  8. barkerg

    barkerg Chillin' With My Peeps

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    Still very good info.[​IMG].

    Gerald Barker
     
  9. casportpony

    casportpony Team Tube Feeding Captain & Poop Inspector General Premium Member

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    Good info about the different classes. :D

    -Kathy
     

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