Clever way to worm with Safeguard?

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Most of our medicines are designed to work on time release in precisely that way- I know my husband's diabetes meds are. It's still good. It keeps us from having to force a huge amounts of nastiness down them all at once. This is a med made for diluting in water for goats.
 
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Most of our medicines are designed to work on time release in precisely that way- I know my husband's diabetes meds are. It's still good. It keeps us from having to force a huge amounts of nastiness down them all at once. This is a med made for diluting in water for goats.

There is not one word on this bottle that says anything about mixing in water for a goat. Its to be given undiluted.
I used to give it to my little goats in a syringe.
 
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The Safeguard paste does not mix in water, it must be given orally. I have used it on ALL my chickens before with no problems administering it. You have 2 ways to do it; grab a chicken and pull the wattles down and quickly put a pea sized amount back in her mouth, then let her go. You've got to keep them seperated or you wont know who got wormed.
The other way is to remove their food and water before letting them out in the morning, they will be hungry. Keep them locked up in the pen before you let them free range. Put up a barrier to make a seperate section where the entrance is to your pen. Let 1 chicken in that section 1 at a time to eat the treated piece of bread off the ground. Another person then opens the gate/door to the pen and lets the chicken out in the yard. Close the pen gate/door and open the barrier to let another in the closed off section, toss a treated piece of bread on the ground, then let the chicken out in the yard. Repeat this til your finished. That have to be treated one by one for this to work.
My pen has 3 sections that I can "compartmentalize" 1 chicken or a group of chickens when it comes to worming or any other project I have in store for them such as inspecting them for lice/mites.
I also use the sections as growout pens for new chicks/pullets, so that the bigger chickens can get used to seeing them. I've never had an integration problem when the time comes, only very minor pecking order picking when it comes to eating from the feeders. RHIP- rank has it's priveledges.
 
I dont recommend mixing wormers in water such as wazine or safeguard. If you have a sick chicken, she wont drink it or will drink very little. You also dont know if healthy chickens drank the treated water nor how much they drank to be effective. Additionally when temperatures are cooler (I wish) they dont drink as much water. It's always best to administer orally, that way you know they got properly wormed. Then repeat again 10 days later.
 
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Thanks everyone for your comments and advice.

Dawg we'll do that and tuff it out!
 
Hey Dawg, I have another question for you. What should I look for, I mean what "Should" happen and how long does it take for the Safeguard goat wormer to work? As I told you last night I dosed 4 of my chickens last night, 2 of them being the ones most affected by the gapeworm and when I let them out this morning I thought I would notice a difference in their behavior...there isnt any. I gave each of them 1/2 cc (1/2 ml) of the liquid soaked on bread and watched them swallow it. (I have a compartmentalized coop, too...mine has 2 compartments. I LOVE how much easier it is to do some things just being able to seperated them).
Should there be a definite change in the symptoms of my birds today after giving them the Safeguard last night? I know I'm supposed to wait 10 days and dose them again and then again 10 days after that. I am positive that they have the gapeworms, I have seen them. The one most affected (the white rock hen) is still head shaking today.
 
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You saw them...did they look like this?
19157_gapeworms-in-windpipe.jpg
 
YES. They look like THAT except the ones my chickens have look like theyve been coughed up, if that makes any sense. GROSS!!! I just came in the house from going out and giving the wormer to the others. No turnin' back now. Just kills me to give them something that's going to make them feel sick, at least I assume that it makes them feel yucky. I will not relax until I know that the wormer doesnt kill any of them.
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I noticed a couple of poops on the ground that looked diarhhea like and I saw a couple of them this morning having shooting poops. I walk around my coop alot and just use a dust pan and a putty knife that I pick up poops with. I figure every poop that I get out of there is one that's not gonna hang around and reinfect any of them.Must be the wormer that gives them diarhea, eh? When and how will I know if the wormer is doing it's job and killing the worms?
 
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Give the fenbendazole a chance to do its job, redose in 10 days, redose as necessary at 10 day intervals. Gapeworm are tough to get rid of. You'd be better off giving it "straight" rather than soaked in bread.
 

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