Clipping a rooster'z spurs???

[HollyWoozle]

I've also done it with dog nail clippers and a file. I just trimmed the very end off - I shone a torch through and could see how close the quick was growing to the end and didn't want to make him bleed (but i kept one of those quick stop pen things to hand just in case). It doesn't take too long to get them much smoother.

 

[Anime2lover]

Why do you feel it is necessary to pick him up to do "check ups?" Assuming a rooster, or chicken, is acting normally, I see no need to pick any of them up.

Just to check for frostbite or bumble now and then. Our last roo got a bad case of frost bite and we didnt see it until it was already a large area on him. Same with our duck and a bad. Ase of bumble last year. Didnt notice it in time because we didnt look them over enough to catch it early. Thats the reason for the check ups.

 

[Mosey2003]

I don't know if it's strictly necessary per se to pick birds up routinely, but I think it's a very good idea. Good to feel them for flesh and fat and make sure nobody is losing too much or gaining too much, also to check for external parasites.

I just got a nice dog nail grinder for the dog and I'm planning to put that in my pocket the next time I plan to pick my rooster up. That should work pretty well to just blunt the tips.

However, if I end up keeping this male for breeding for many years and his spurs get really, really long, I'm totally going to try the twist-off method.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I don't believe in trimming claws or spurs without a real reason, but there are times that you might need to for the benefit of the bird itself, for the rest of the flock, or for you. People tend to forget that they can be an important part of that equation. I'll include the claws since they are so similar.

The claws and spurs are somewhat like your fingernails. If you cut the fingernails themselves there is no pain or blood. But if you get into the quick it bleeds. It should hurt but I've nicked the quick a few times and the bird never flinched, I'm not sure how much they even feel it. Still I try to avoid it. With some roosters you can see the quick, especially if it is back-lit but with most of mine not really. The quick will grow differently in different chickens so you can't give a certain measurement and now you are safe. I generally target no more than 1/4 of the length and am usually safe. I only want to blunt the tips, not remove the whole thing.

There are different methods. I'm not into twisting them off, just not comfortable doing that. Some people use dog nail clippers or files to file them back. One lady on here uses a Dremel tool and grinder. I use a Dremel tool with one of those discs used to cut metal. I have nothing against files or clippers, it's just the way I do it. I wrap the bird in a towel and it is over pretty quickly.

 

[Anime2lover]

I don't believe in trimming claws or spurs without a real reason, but there are times that you might need to for the benefit of the bird itself, for the rest of the flock, or for you. People tend to forget that they can be an important part of that equation. I'll include the claws since they are so similar.

The claws and spurs are somewhat like your fingernails. If you cut the fingernails themselves there is no pain or blood. But if you get into the quick it bleeds. It should hurt but I've nicked the quick a few times and the bird never flinched, I'm not sure how much they even feel it. Still I try to avoid it. With some roosters you can see the quick, especially if it is back-lit but with most of mine not really. The quick will grow differently in different chickens so you can't give a certain measurement and now you are safe. I generally target no more than 1/4 of the length and am usually safe. I only want to blunt the tips, not remove the whole thing.

There are different methods. I'm not into twisting them off, just not comfortable doing that. Some people use dog nail clippers or files to file them back. One lady on here uses a Dremel tool and grinder. I use a Dremel tool with one of those discs used to cut metal. I have nothing against files or clippers, it's just the way I do it. I wrap the bird in a towel and it is over pretty quickly.

I don't know if it's strictly necessary per se to pick birds up routinely, but I think it's a very good idea. Good to feel them for flesh and fat and make sure nobody is losing too much or gaining too much, also to check for external parasites.

I just got a nice dog nail grinder for the dog and I'm planning to put that in my pocket the next time I plan to pick my rooster up. That should work pretty well to just blunt the tips.

However, if I end up keeping this male for breeding for many years and his spurs get really, really long, I'm totally going to try the twist-off method.

I think the next time I go to pick him up, i'll use a metal file for mine and my hen's sake. When summer comes around, it's possible that they can do quite a bit of harm being as sharp as they are. Wild roos dont have to worry about that as much due to natural were and tear but not captive.

 

[50-45-1]

i saw a rooster once (not mine) that could not hunker down on the roost as his spur poked his underside.i have also seen quite a few posts here that show the damage done to hens (not on purpose) sides by a rooster with too long of spurs. also really lengthy spurs can intafear with the rooster walking at some point.
yes trim them off. there are quite good diagrams and videos on the internet to show you how. you should be able to get a good idea how far out to cut to miss the quick. and even if you do get some blood it will be fine.
i use a pair of hand clippers, like for garden trimming. just leave about 3/4 to one inch.

 

[aart]

I regularly examine my birds, mostly for bugs but give them an overall looksee.
Luckily my coop is in a large shed with a table and chair,
and I wear a headlight and all exams are done off the roost after dark.
I don't chase chickens
Roost is set for my convenience and I often just go down the line and feel crops and look at feet, they are used to this and most will stand up with a gentle touch.

Have trimmed the needle point of cocks spurs for my own safety as well as the girls.
Just snip an 1/8" or so off then file(metal human nail file) the rough edges.
Current cock needs a trim, his spurs have gotten very long, one must have gotten caught in something and the sheath came off...the other is very sharp, not sure if I'll attempt the 'twist off' or just nip the end.

Here's a spur sheath I saved when slaughtering.
The line shows the depth of the quick cavity...
...and that I could have trimmed off more that I did when dulling the point.

 

[BigBlueHen53]

@aart made a point, almost in passing, that I'd like to emphasize: she handles her birds at night, when they're roosting, to do checks and trim spurs, etc. I do, too. This is much safer and easier than trying to chase down. capture, pick up and wrestle with a wide-awake, uncooperative bird in daylight! On the roost in the dark, the bird can't see well to start with, which gives you a distinct advantage. His weight is supported by the roost and he feels comfortable, natural and safe, so he's not in a resistant mode, as he certainly will be when he's in your arms. That's totally unnatural and feels like a coyote or bear is hauling him off to be eaten, so naturally he struggles and flaps and screams, sending the rest of the flock into a panic. If you do need to lift him off the roost at night, he won't resist for long, because, again, he can't see. It's just so much easier! Invest in a 99c LED headlamp from Wal-Mart's sporting goods department, or better yet, a handful of them. They're awesome!

 

[igorsMistress]

I don't believe in trimming claws or spurs without a real reason, but there are times that you might need to for the benefit of the bird itself, for the rest of the flock, or for you. People tend to forget that they can be an important part of that equation. I'll include the claws since they are so similar.

The claws and spurs are somewhat like your fingernails. If you cut the fingernails themselves there is no pain or blood. But if you get into the quick it bleeds. It should hurt but I've nicked the quick a few times and the bird never flinched, I'm not sure how much they even feel it. Still I try to avoid it. With some roosters you can see the quick, especially if it is back-lit but with most of mine not really. The quick will grow differently in different chickens so you can't give a certain measurement and now you are safe. I generally target no more than 1/4 of the length and am usually safe. I only want to blunt the tips, not remove the whole thing.

There are different methods. I'm not into twisting them off, just not comfortable doing that. Some people use dog nail clippers or files to file them back. One lady on here uses a Dremel tool and grinder. I use a Dremel tool with one of those discs used to cut metal. I have nothing against files or clippers, it's just the way I do it. I wrap the bird in a towel and it is over pretty quickly.

Thanks for the tip on which wheel to use!

@aart made a point, almost in passing, that I'd like to emphasize: she handles her birds at night, when they're roosting, to do checks and trim spurs, etc. I do, too. This is much safer and easier than trying to chase down. capture, pick up and wrestle with a wide-awake, uncooperative bird in daylight! On the roost in the dark, the bird can't see well to start with, which gives you a distinct advantage. His weight is supported by the roost and he feels comfortable, natural and safe, so he's not in a resistant mode, as he certainly will be when he's in your arms. That's totally unnatural and feels like a coyote or bear is hauling him off to be eaten, so naturally he struggles and flaps and screams, sending the rest of the flock into a panic. If you do need to lift him off the roost at night, he won't resist for long, because, again, he can't see. It's just so much easier! Invest in a 99c LED headlamp from Wal-Mart's sporting goods department, or better yet, a handful of them. They're awesome!

X 2 on all of this.

 

[aart]

Invest in a 99c LED headlamp from Wal-Mart's sporting goods department

Ehhh.....I prefer a headlamp with multi brightness settings and a tiltable mount.
The tilt is essential, IMO, to point it up at the ceiling so as not to light an escape path when grabbing a bird, then brightest setting pointed to match up with my multi focal glasses so I can see wth I'm doing whether it be looking for bugs or especially trimming spurs/nails or cling-ons. The older my eyes get the more important this becomes. Have used headlights since camping in my 30's, it was like I discovered sliced bread!! One of the best tools in my possession.

I get all the birds used to my presence and touch by picking them off roosts regularly,
good practice for them and me,
so eventually some barely react, others are less placid.