Cocci not going away?

[undrcroft]

I have a Golden Comet Hen who I thought had Cocci and I've treated her with Corid for a week, but she doesn't seem to be getting better. I have a mixed flock with 2 that died of what I believe was Cocci when they were just reaching adulthood about 6-9 months ago. I have 3 other Goldens from the same age who are doing great, but for about a month she progressively started showing signs. Really slow, lethargic, balance problems, standing in a corner with her eyes closed, and she looks like the fattest of the flock, but when I pick her up she feels really boney, and doesn't eat a lot. I haven't noticed her pooping so I can't say what the state of it is.

I attached a picture from a week ago comparing her with one of the healthy ones. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[Michael Apple]

Intestinal worms cause many of the same symptoms of coccidiosis. Loss of weight, loss of energy, pale combs, hunched posture, diarrhea, damage to the caeca (cecal worms). Histomoniasis (Blackhead) is also a protozoan , like Cocci, carried by cecal worms which can cause problems much the same.

Valbazen treatment for your size birds would be 1/2 cc given orally by syringe minus the needle. Dose once, and again 10 days later. Give vitamins and probiotic dispersible powder in waterers for 3-5 days after each treatment. I would get some Metronidazole to keep on hand too just in case Histomoniasis becomes a problem. This is what I prefer given on an empty crop: http://www.jedds.com/-strse-1765/AVIO-dsh-TRICH-(Aviomed)/Detail.bok

Worm first, and see if there is improvement. If you see no improvement, there are other possibilities. Just to note: I help growing birds build resistance to Coccidiosis by using Corid in water periodically starting at 2-3 weeks of age up until at least 7 months of age. I do not use medicated feed.

The Greens aka enteritis is also more common in Spring. Clostridium bacteria causes it in many cases. Green, loose droppings, with mucous, birds hunched up, drinking excessively, lack of appetite are some signs. 250 mg Amoxicillin or Cephalexin capsules given at 1 tab morning and evening for a 5+ lb bird are more effective than water dispersibles like Tetracycline and Bacitricin. Give vitamins and probiotics in water just as you would after any cycle of medicinal treatment.

 

[Michael Apple]

I noticed you stated the one bird is not eating much. You may need to separate her and give fluids. Poultry Nutri Drench is a fast absorbing vitamin which increases appetite. You could try that and feed some vitamin-electrolyte treated water with a syringe. Be careful not to aspirate the bird and feed small amounts at a time. Moistening feed also encourages birds to eat. Boiled egg yolk also has a good amount of nutrients, is soft and easily eaten. Valbazen, Poultry Nutri Drench can usually be found in any feed store. Amoxicillin and Cephalexin can be found as fish antibiotics if you can't find a vet to prescribe them. Here is what they are sold as: http://www.revivalanimal.com/Fish-a...n=topnav&ic_name=medicationsantibioticstopnav

 

[undrcroft]

Well it was definitely worms and unfortunately too late. They were obvious after she died. I hate that i waited so long to post on here, or i probably could have stopped it in plenty of time with the right action. So should i deworm all the others with Valbazen since im sure she had worms? All the others seem perfectly fine but they were definitely in contact when she had them

 

[Michael Apple]

Well it was definitely worms and unfortunately too late. They were obvious after she died. I hate that i waited so long to post on here, or i probably could have stopped it in plenty of time with the right action. So should i deworm all the others with Valbazen since im sure she had worms? All the others seem perfectly fine but they were definitely in contact when she had them

Yes. If one has them, the others likely do too. I am sorry you weren't able to help her.

 

[dawg53]

I agree with Michael Apple. Alot of people believe cocci are the problem in older birds when it comes to symptoms, when in fact it's worms causing basically the same symptoms.
Worms can be the root cause of many maladies in chickens.

 

[chickisoup]

I would also recommend dusting with Sevin for parasites at the same time. Often it is a combination. Found out the hard way that one will weaken the resistance to the effects of the other.
Am I right Dawg?

 

[ChickensAreSweet]

First, I am sorry for your loss.

Once I bought chickens off Craigslist infested with worms. Ever since then, I have to deworm twice a year or I see worms in the poo. That was several years ago. This is even after a period of time having no chickens on that soil. The worm eggs are now in the soil and you will need to be vigilant in keeping your flock free from worms.

Using wormers are off-label for egglaying hens, and thus research is important, but this is a life-saving thing you can do for your flock. I have lost chickens to worms and even found a worm in an egg once. There is nothing like seeing my flock get depressed looking, me worming them, and then they perk up a few days later...back to normal.

Same with mites/lice. They do prey upon weakened hens/cocks more. However, once there is an infestation of mites I have found that they even bite me and thus everyone will be infested. I have not dealt with lice. Make sure you repeat your wormers and mite/lice treatments to break the life cycle of these things.

Repeat your mite/lice treatments every 7 days or so, (x1 for mites, and for lice make sure you repeat x2 because that 14 day time frame is important). Worming- I repeat at 10 days.

Some vets will do a fecal float for worms but false negatives are possible. I just watch my flock carefully and schedule my wormings for at least twice a year. Make sure that you toss eggs for an appropriate amount of time after deworming, too. Most say 14 days on BYC I have read.

I hope this helps.

 

[ChickensAreSweet]

.

 

[Michael Apple]

First, I am sorry for your loss.

Once I bought chickens off Craigslist infested with worms. Ever since then, I have to deworm twice a year or I see worms in the poo. That was several years ago. This is even after a period of time having no chickens on that soil. The worm eggs are now in the soil and you will need to be vigilant in keeping your flock free from worms.

I'm always amazed at the amount of chicks/birds being sold on Craigslist. I called a guy once asking if he vaccinates his chicks for Marek's. He didn't even know what Marek's disease was. End of conversation there.

Using wormers are off-label for egglaying hens, and thus research is important, but this is a life-saving thing you can do for your flock. I have lost chickens to worms and even found a worm in an egg once. There is nothing like seeing my flock get depressed looking, me worming them, and then they perk up a few days later...back to normal.

There is a pelleted wormer made by Rooster Booster products which contains Hygromycin-B, and has no withdrawal period. It is pelleted and is added to feed. The trick would be insuring enough is eaten. I like direct fed wormers, then I know they are getting enough.

Same with mites/lice. They do prey upon weakened hens/cocks more. However, once there is an infestation of mites I have found that they even bite me and thus everyone will be infested. I have not dealt with lice. Make sure you repeat your wormers and mite/lice treatments to break the life cycle of these things.

Dusts are old-hat to me. An emulsified concentrate labeled for poultry like Permectrin II or Ravap EC has a residual of 28 days, which requires no secondary treatment.

Repeat your mite/lice treatments every 7 days or so, (x1 for mites, and for lice make sure you repeat x2 because that 14 day time frame is important). Worming- I repeat at 10 days.

Some wormers recommend 3 days in a row if there's a large infestation. Like you, I've found Spring and fall treatments (twice a year) prevents problems.

Some vets will do a fecal float for worms but false negatives are possible. I just watch my flock carefully and schedule my wormings for at least twice a year. Make sure that you toss eggs for an appropriate amount of time after deworming, too. Most say 14 days on BYC I have read.

I inquired with a vet for a fecal float about 5 years ago and he said it would cost $150, so I declined. What I find questionable about fenbendazole (Safeguard) is that there's no withdrawal time for Turkeys, yet folks claim there is for chickens. I eat eggs after worming with fenbendazole and never had any problems. That is just me though. It is always best to seek legitimate studies, such as those performed by poultry science departments at universities. i think it is a good idea to alternate wormers as to avoid worms becoming immune to the same solution year after year.

I hope this helps.

You always are helpful.