Condensation in Coop

[Shezadandy]

Ventilation ... Adding windows .... May I suggest "hopper windows" in place of vents, and for adding windows in the back wall.


TAFCO WINDOWS 31.75 in. x 15.75 in. Hopper Vinyl Window with Screen-PV-HOP 32x16 - The Home Depot

Hopper windows allow the entire opening of a window to serve as ventilation because the glass can be turned completely horizontal. This matters because it only takes up 1-2" of the entire window opening instead of 1/2 of the opening like your current windows. The white line in the windows of my coop is the window folded out- so that entire area is open air with no glass reflecting heat.

That means there isn't 1/2 of the window acting like a greenhouse... They will also let more light into your coop where vents might not. A ridge vent (too late I think) would have been good- allowing air to escape straight up. (apologies if there is one and I don't see it)

Another good way is using a security metal screen door instead of that solid door.

Unique Home Designs 36 in. x 80 in. Su Casa Black Surface Mount Outswing Steel Security Door with Expanded Metal Screen-5SH202BLACK36 - The Home Depot

Another huge ventilation plus, especially if you make a window right across from a metal security door on the backwall - or better yet, if you have electricity - a poultry fan.

Indoor/Outdoor Shutter Barn Fan J&D MFG - Stalls | Stable Equipment Supplies (valleyvet.com)

Front/side:

Back: (the slats are the exterior of the fan linked above- they can be propped open to act as a window with the fan turned off)

 

[ClarksHomestead]

Ventilation ... Adding windows .... May I suggest "hopper windows" in place of vents, and for adding windows in the back wall.


TAFCO WINDOWS 31.75 in. x 15.75 in. Hopper Vinyl Window with Screen-PV-HOP 32x16 - The Home Depot

Hopper windows allow the entire opening of a window to serve as ventilation because the glass can be turned completely horizontal. This matters because it only takes up 1-2" of the entire window opening instead of 1/2 of the opening like your current windows. The white line in the windows of my coop is the window folded out- so that entire area is open air with no glass reflecting heat.

That means there isn't 1/2 of the window acting like a greenhouse... They will also let more light into your coop where vents might not. A ridge vent (too late I think) would have been good- allowing air to escape straight up. (apologies if there is one and I don't see it)

Another good way is using a security metal screen door instead of that solid door.

Unique Home Designs 36 in. x 80 in. Su Casa Black Surface Mount Outswing Steel Security Door with Expanded Metal Screen-5SH202BLACK36 - The Home Depot

Another huge ventilation plus, especially if you make a window right across from a metal security door on the backwall - or better yet, if you have electricity - a poultry fan.

Indoor/Outdoor Shutter Barn Fan J&D MFG - Stalls | Stable Equipment Supplies (valleyvet.com)

Front/side:
View attachment 2466896

Back: (the slats are the exterior of the fan linked above- they can be propped open to act as a window with the fan turned off)
View attachment 2466905

Thank you so much. Very informational! Sounds like I have a bit of work to do! Always learning. Thank you!

 

[Shezadandy]

Thank you so much. Very informational! Sounds like I have a bit of work to do! Always learning. Thank you!

It's a really neat coop! Just pick one thing at a time- the first thing I would do is get some really big vents (or hopper windows!!) in that great overhead space you've got. That will help quite a bit. When summer hits, even here in the Pac NW, you'll want all the ventilation you can get.

Hardware cloth frames on the exterior of the windows will keep night critters from crawling in. I cut the hardware cloth so it's about 1" less wide, and 1" less tall than the window opening, then I staple-gunned the corners to keep them in place (into the existing exterior window trim)... then screw in some new trim wood over the top of the hardware cloth, screwing into the existing window trim, so the hardware cloth is firmly in place to repel predators, even with windows wide open. =) Then your windows will still look pretty but not have predator risk.

 

[3KillerBs]

There are two vent holes on each end of the coop.

You need about 1 square foot of permanent -- 24/7/365 -- ventilation per chicken.

Since heat and ammonia both rise and since chickens shouldn't have drafts blowing directly on their roosts, the best place for that ventilation is up high on those gable ends. The bigger the better.

 

[Matilda Belle]

I haven’t read all the responses but agree you need more ventilation. It would help to crack the windows for now and when you get a chance add a few more vents.

 

[humblehillsfarm]

As others said, yes ventilation. With that said, I practice a DRY coop management. I never keep the water in the coop, and I added a poop board to scoop up poop daily. My bedding is bone dry. I have 18 birds in a 4x6 coop which is WAY too overcrowded, and the coop actually does NOT have any ventilation in the winter. It has three windows, but they are all at body level for the birds, and I close them when temps dip below freezing. There is never condensation in my coop.

Full disclosure, when I bought the coop, which is Amish built, I had no idea that the birds needed ventilation. I attempted the deep litter method and moisture was such a problem that two of my birds developed respiratory infections. I doubled down on my coop management and in two years have not had a single respiratory infection, nor have I had any condensation.

So for me personally, I manage humidity without any need for ventilation currently. With that said, I am building a substantially larger coop with open soffits for ventilation which are 6-8' above where the roosts will be. Even though I am a big advocate for a dry coop when managing moisture, I still agree that ventilation is critical.

I advice assessing how you manage your coop in addition to adding more ventilation.

 

[IdyllwildAcres]

I still agree that ventilation is critical.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Yes I added a heat lamp where the chickens are kept and it seems the window where the chickens aren’t. In the shed part has more condensation.

Yes windows are closed.
I have 15 chickens.
There is water in the coop.
There are two vent holes on each end of the coop. Weather has been wet and if not we then freezing.
Thank you for your help!

Agree with most of the others above - no heat, more ventilation, and move the water outside if possible.

If the two windows aren't facing into prevailing winds (and if the roost isn't directly in front), I'd try opening both completely, and check for drafts. Bigger gable vents, either with louvered covers or awnings to protect from weather, would be ideal, since moisture will rise and escape that way.

 

[Shezadandy]

Once you've made a change (like adding vents/windows to the top area), take a boiling pot of water (keep it covered til you get to the coop)- turn off any lights in the coop - put the pot at roost level --- then use your flashlight to see where the water vapor from the boiling pot ends up. That will offer some clues on any "dead air" spots where (edited to read: MOISTURE, not "ventilation") might collect. Smoke will work too but - I got enough smoke in the wildfires this year.

 

[jreardon1918]

If possible, adding a temperature/humidity sensor in the coop can give you a better sense of conditions in the coop. We have one that works wirelessly. But even one that you can look at from time to time will show you actual temperature and humidity in the coop. Here are two pictures that show the reported temp/humidity in our area and the actual conditions in the coop. They are close and that is what we are looking to achieve.