Okay I cut and copied the list that I read on KingBees link and I read sharol's as well.
I'll try to do some editing and make a list. I have been out watering again and I need time to cool down anyway.
Corid.. coccidiosis I prefer the powdered over the liquid because it doesn't expire as fast and isn't as temperature sensitive. Cheaper too. I suggest repackaging it as soon as you open it in a well sealed container.
Tylan - treats respiratory problems (This was available but now in Kansas it is prescription only. Venders are allowed to sell left over old stock w/o a prescription, but if buying watch the expiration date.)
Pennicilin G. The most broad spectrum animal type of pennicilin available. Keep refrigerated
Dimothox. a broad spectrum sulfa drug
Metronidazole: prescription. Can be purchased as fish mox but pricy that way. Same thing as human Flagyl. A vet can write a prescription for it to be filled at your local drug store and actually save money over the vet supply price. This treats certain illnesses that strike and kill bird with a matter of 24-48 hours. Trichinosis which expresses as swollen sinuses, congestion, sneezing etc. Carried readily by wild birds. Called Canker in pigeons and doves. Also blackhead which affects turkeys and peafowl. Usually won't make chickens ill but deadly for other birds.
Baytril -Prescription and used in a last ditch effort when nothing else works or you have confirmed a deadly infection. Warning: this is one of the best antibiotics on the market but never use it without trying other things first. We are all responsible for not creating super bugs that are resistant to these better meds.
VetRX- Essential oils to combat congestion and viral colds
Oregano oil. Is a great topical antibiotic. Can be given orally for some things but ineffective on others.
Tea tree oil. Another great topical antibiotic. No internal use.
Lavender oil. Simply used as a calming agent.
Vitamin E oil. capsules... I usually buy 400 MG. An essential nutrient that can cause all sorts of neurological problems if it is deficient. Use directly in birds mouth suffering from injuries or other issues affecting the brain. Vitamin E is a wonder drug for birds.
Vitamin B complex. Helps with Niacin deficiency. Has a lot to do with muscle and joint maintenance.
Wormers: I don't think one alone is going to do the job. Reason being sometimes you may be treating for a different type of worm. For maintenance worming I recommend Safeguard goat drench and then the next time, Ivermectin injectable. If you find worms I suggest trying to treat with the most aggressive treatment for that type of worm. Valbazen, Panacur and maybe a few others will fall in that category. Things like Wazine work strictly on round worms which are the most common but you could be missing something else. I take an active approach and maintenance worm on a regular schedule, unless there are weather extremes or the bird is in poor health for some other reason.
Mite or lice treatment: My preference is Permethrin. Spray the birds, spray the coop and get in all the cracks. Repeat in 7 -10 days.
Sevin dust and pour-on Ivermectin. Not quite as thorough as Permethrin but easier to use.
Vetericyn Wound Care or eye care of any of the Vetericyns. Pricy but great stuff without a high chemical load.
Baby Aspirin - painkiller, in case of injuries I would never give aspirin to a chick. Note taken from the previous list.
For Pain killers St. John's wort works better than anything. Open a capsule and mix in water. The chickens seem to enjoy the flavor although it looks nasty. It works directly on their nervous system.
Blu-Kote - can be used to cover some injuries, or bare spots to prevent picking from other chickens
Pine Tar- Nasty smelly sticky stuff but is a great wound healer and prevents picking. Covers blood better than blue Kote
Rubbing Alcohol - Can be used to sterilize area if you need to inject anything, do some kind of surgery, etc.
Peroxide - Also sterilizing, can be used to clean INSIDE wounds as well
Neosporin - a safe ointment for poultry, can be used to prevent infections in wounds.(NOTE: Be sure to buy neosporin without the pain killer. This can also be used to treat eye injuries.
Vet wrap, general bandaging material.
Probioitic powder. I use one made for goats.
Some kind of lubricating jelly or body safe oil - Can to be used to feel for an egg blockage or help with a prolapse
Vitamins: Several choices here. Poultry Cell is the best I have found and seems more palatable to the chickens. They don't mind taking it. It offers probiotics as well as vitamins and other things necessary for an immune boost.
Vaseline - good for moistening skin or suffocating mites, either on feathers or on legs
Pedialite or other electrolyte replacement fluid
Apple Cider Vinegar - A natural worm preventative. (Not a proven theory but does create a healthy flora for their intestines. Avoid using in summer because it can cause deadly consequences if used in an over heated chicken.
Syringes - Different sizes help. Work with a variety of things, from drawing out fluid, to force feeding, to giving medicine
Eye droppers. Invaluable.
Scissors - Can trim feathers, dead tissue, etc
Blood-stopping powder (cornstarch works) - For stopping bleeding in SMALL wounds
Oxine. A wonderful disinfectant particularly when activated. Great for everything including washing eating eggs. I also love to use it for household cleaning. A little activated oxine goes a long long ways
Tektrol. The holy grail. Strong stuff. No better disinfectant around. A gallon will last months and months.
A heat pad.. for emergency treatment, to treat shock and to warm a cold bird.
A rectal thermometer. (102 to 106 is normal)
Some old towels you don't mind using on birds. I have a stock pile of them.
I am sure there's a lot more that I'm not thinking of. I could fill a drug store with my chicken meds.Obviously there are a few you probably should keep on hand but for a small flock it's just not practical to go out and spend hundreds on all this stuff.
Good health is the key to not needing these things. Even the best poultry keeper can't always control outside invasions of disease or medical problems. Also the more chickens you have the more chance you will encounter other illnesses.
I'll try to do some editing and make a list. I have been out watering again and I need time to cool down anyway.
Corid.. coccidiosis I prefer the powdered over the liquid because it doesn't expire as fast and isn't as temperature sensitive. Cheaper too. I suggest repackaging it as soon as you open it in a well sealed container.
Tylan - treats respiratory problems (This was available but now in Kansas it is prescription only. Venders are allowed to sell left over old stock w/o a prescription, but if buying watch the expiration date.)
Pennicilin G. The most broad spectrum animal type of pennicilin available. Keep refrigerated
Dimothox. a broad spectrum sulfa drug
Metronidazole: prescription. Can be purchased as fish mox but pricy that way. Same thing as human Flagyl. A vet can write a prescription for it to be filled at your local drug store and actually save money over the vet supply price. This treats certain illnesses that strike and kill bird with a matter of 24-48 hours. Trichinosis which expresses as swollen sinuses, congestion, sneezing etc. Carried readily by wild birds. Called Canker in pigeons and doves. Also blackhead which affects turkeys and peafowl. Usually won't make chickens ill but deadly for other birds.
Baytril -Prescription and used in a last ditch effort when nothing else works or you have confirmed a deadly infection. Warning: this is one of the best antibiotics on the market but never use it without trying other things first. We are all responsible for not creating super bugs that are resistant to these better meds.
VetRX- Essential oils to combat congestion and viral colds
Oregano oil. Is a great topical antibiotic. Can be given orally for some things but ineffective on others.
Tea tree oil. Another great topical antibiotic. No internal use.
Lavender oil. Simply used as a calming agent.
Vitamin E oil. capsules... I usually buy 400 MG. An essential nutrient that can cause all sorts of neurological problems if it is deficient. Use directly in birds mouth suffering from injuries or other issues affecting the brain. Vitamin E is a wonder drug for birds.
Vitamin B complex. Helps with Niacin deficiency. Has a lot to do with muscle and joint maintenance.
Wormers: I don't think one alone is going to do the job. Reason being sometimes you may be treating for a different type of worm. For maintenance worming I recommend Safeguard goat drench and then the next time, Ivermectin injectable. If you find worms I suggest trying to treat with the most aggressive treatment for that type of worm. Valbazen, Panacur and maybe a few others will fall in that category. Things like Wazine work strictly on round worms which are the most common but you could be missing something else. I take an active approach and maintenance worm on a regular schedule, unless there are weather extremes or the bird is in poor health for some other reason.
Mite or lice treatment: My preference is Permethrin. Spray the birds, spray the coop and get in all the cracks. Repeat in 7 -10 days.
Sevin dust and pour-on Ivermectin. Not quite as thorough as Permethrin but easier to use.
Vetericyn Wound Care or eye care of any of the Vetericyns. Pricy but great stuff without a high chemical load.
Baby Aspirin - painkiller, in case of injuries I would never give aspirin to a chick. Note taken from the previous list.
For Pain killers St. John's wort works better than anything. Open a capsule and mix in water. The chickens seem to enjoy the flavor although it looks nasty. It works directly on their nervous system.
Blu-Kote - can be used to cover some injuries, or bare spots to prevent picking from other chickens
Pine Tar- Nasty smelly sticky stuff but is a great wound healer and prevents picking. Covers blood better than blue Kote
Rubbing Alcohol - Can be used to sterilize area if you need to inject anything, do some kind of surgery, etc.
Peroxide - Also sterilizing, can be used to clean INSIDE wounds as well
Neosporin - a safe ointment for poultry, can be used to prevent infections in wounds.(NOTE: Be sure to buy neosporin without the pain killer. This can also be used to treat eye injuries.
Vet wrap, general bandaging material.
Probioitic powder. I use one made for goats.
Some kind of lubricating jelly or body safe oil - Can to be used to feel for an egg blockage or help with a prolapse
Vitamins: Several choices here. Poultry Cell is the best I have found and seems more palatable to the chickens. They don't mind taking it. It offers probiotics as well as vitamins and other things necessary for an immune boost.
Vaseline - good for moistening skin or suffocating mites, either on feathers or on legs
Pedialite or other electrolyte replacement fluid
Apple Cider Vinegar - A natural worm preventative. (Not a proven theory but does create a healthy flora for their intestines. Avoid using in summer because it can cause deadly consequences if used in an over heated chicken.
Syringes - Different sizes help. Work with a variety of things, from drawing out fluid, to force feeding, to giving medicine
Eye droppers. Invaluable.
Scissors - Can trim feathers, dead tissue, etc
Blood-stopping powder (cornstarch works) - For stopping bleeding in SMALL wounds
Oxine. A wonderful disinfectant particularly when activated. Great for everything including washing eating eggs. I also love to use it for household cleaning. A little activated oxine goes a long long ways
Tektrol. The holy grail. Strong stuff. No better disinfectant around. A gallon will last months and months.
A heat pad.. for emergency treatment, to treat shock and to warm a cold bird.
A rectal thermometer. (102 to 106 is normal)
Some old towels you don't mind using on birds. I have a stock pile of them.
I am sure there's a lot more that I'm not thinking of. I could fill a drug store with my chicken meds.Obviously there are a few you probably should keep on hand but for a small flock it's just not practical to go out and spend hundreds on all this stuff.
Good health is the key to not needing these things. Even the best poultry keeper can't always control outside invasions of disease or medical problems. Also the more chickens you have the more chance you will encounter other illnesses.
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