I may have mentioned it here before, but last summer I got 5 hens at a swap meet, that were not in the best of condition. They appeared to be burned out layers. I brought them home and isolated them from all my other poultry. They are the best layers I have. Most days I gather 5 eggs, but never less than 4. They now have nice feathers, and they sing constantly. I am considering putting a French Copper Marians rooster with them. Their egg-color is about a 2 on the scale of 4 being a deep dark brown. Has anyone on here have results of using a Marians rooster? I've had good results, with my Barred Rock/Americana cross. So far all have a barred feathering. and the 4th generation lay a nice blue egg, but not during the winter.
Back in the day when I had Marans I did some inbreeding....or rather the chickens did.
It added a little color but seemed more washed out.
......here is a copy paste of my intro thread.
Hi everyone, just introducing myself. I am Thomas from Western Kansas. We tried keeping chickens last year and well, we have a serious raccoon problem. All we have left from our first season is one barred rock hen, who is doing great still and has given us 5 or 6 eggs a week all through winter. While I am well versed in cattle and their husbandry practices this was my first go at chickens.
I have been working on the coons all winter with much success, I'll spare you the gory details, but its about spring time and we are trying again. We are going a little bigger this year, plans and lumber are gathered and we will be building a new coon proof coop. 25 Chicks will be here the first week of February, and we are going to be keeping a couple roosters and starting to hopefully hatch our own flock as well. My oldest daughter (6) got an ebay incubator for Christmas and my oldest 3 are really looking forward to hatching some chicks. Probably try to keep our own flock between 30 and 40 in the end and sell the rest, and also do 2 batches of 50 meaties for eating.
The plan is for the chickens to be primarily free range if I can deal with the hawks, and coop them at night. I have a large wooden crate for a brooder, and it is set back up and ready to go.
Just a little background on me, 31 and married for 9 years, have a drop dead gorgeous wife and 4 kids ages 6, 4, 3, and 6 months. Work as part of the family farm operation farming about 8000 acres, family used to run small feed lots for cattle, but no longer do that. We do still have a good sized working cow/calf operation, as well as the farming.
I am lucky enough as a farmer to have access to a bunch of whole grains, and I am versed in calculating rations for our cattle, so I am hoping to do the same thing for our chickens. Last year we used commercial feed, this year I have brought in a couple ingredients to the feed store (barley and Soybean meal), will be working up a ration to put them on once I get them out of the brooder. I've done some quick first calculations and I think I am going to be around 7 cents a pound for good 20% protein feed blend, and a little less for 17-18%. Ration will contain distillers grains, cracked corn, wheat, barley, milo, and silage, along with plenty of animal protein scraps throughout the year. Planning on supplementing with oyster shell or whatever other calcium source I can find.
So thats me, looking forward to being part of the community. I am sure I will come up with questions for ya'll as we get going again. OH....I am also a professional landscape photographer who specializes in agriculture, so I take a lot of art photographs and sell them. Here is one of my Cornish X last year. I actually got to eat him before the coons got him!
Welcome to our thread. Glad to have you. Many of us have other livestock so it's nice to have someone on board that has some other knowledge.
To be predator proof, remember to extend fencing underground for a pen and overhead netting to protect from owls, hawks and climbing animals. Even if you have a free range group you will still need some type of fenced area outside the coop. It makes a world of difference in their safety and also helps you when you need to pen them for treatment, like worming etc. If you have to be gone somewhere and don't want to leave the chickens unprotected or if you are getting home after dark it's necessary.
As far as hawks go, I hope you chose a larger breed chicken. If the birds are big, the hawks won't bother them like they do smaller breeds.
Some more info on feed for chickens: Just things to consider. I would avoid the soybean meal if you are ordering large quantities of feed that you won't use up quickly. Soybean meal starts going rancid as soon as it is ground. Distillers grain should only be added at a rate of 100 pounds per ton. The reason being, that although very high in protein it will burn out a chicken rather quickly. If you have a higher rate of DDG your chickens will lay more, however they only have a certain number of eggs in their system. So within a couple years they will be done laying. Also the distillers grains are very hard on the liver and kidneys and if in too high a concentration will exhaust those organs a lot more quickly and cause death. Large grains like corn need to be ground. It takes so much energy for a chicken to digest corn that it needs to be reduced in summer. You can add more in winter because their digestive process increases their body temperature and it also adds fat. I've learned that most grains are eaten better if they are ground or crimped. Also consider vitamins and minerals that a chicken needs. If you are planning on layers I'd add Calcium carbonate for feed. The little pelleted kind that you use for cattle. A 50 pound bag mixed with a ton of feed is plenty. (Add this much only when they get to laying age.)
There are a number of vitamins that are essential for poultry health and egg production. Here is some information you might find helpful. Adding a poultry supplement to your feed is expensive but it is also the only practical way of providing what they need. If you have knowledge of what grains contain what vitamins that would also be helpful. Just food for thought:
Fat-soluble vitamins may be stored in the animal body. In contrast, water-soluble vitamins are not stored, and excesses are excreted. So water soluble vitamins need to be replenished daily. There is no way to know how much of what nutrients a chicken is going to get from free ranging, so it's best to make sure they have what they need in their feed. Here is a list of problems associated with lack of each viatamin and mineral. Good information to know. I've found even with supplements that vitamin D and the B vitamins are the two that obviously come up short from time to time. Vitamin D more in winter and in long stretches of gloomy skies. Vitamin B year round but more so in winter. Free range birds do much better than penned birds getting enough B vitamins.
Fat Soluble Vitamins
Vitamin A Decreased egg production, weakness and lack of growth
Vitamin D Thin shelled eggs, reduced egg production, retarded growth, rickets
Vitamin E Enlarged hocks, encephalomalacia
Vitamin K Prolonged blood clotting, intramuscular bleeding
Water Soluble Vitamins
Thiamine (B1) Loss of appetite and death
Riboflavin (B2) Curly-toe paralysis, poor growth and poor egg production
Pantothenic Acid Dermatitis and lesions on mouth and feet
Niacin Bowed legs, inflammation of tongue and mouth cavity
Choline Poor growth, fatty liver, decreased egg production
Vitamin B12 Anaemia, poor growth, embryonic mortality
Folic Acid Poor growth, anaemia, poor feathering and egg production
Biotin Dermatitis on feet and around eyes and beak
Minerals
Calcium Poor egg shell quality and poor hatchability, rickets
Phosphorus Rickets, poor egg shell quality and hatchability
Magnesium Sudden death
Manganese Perosis, poor hatchability
Iron Anaemia
Copper Anaemia
Iodine Goitre
Zinc Poor feathering, short bones
Cobalt Slow growth, mortality, reduced hatchability
Just as a side note: I have my own feed milled and have had to make several adjustments especially with changing seasons to make sure the birds get what they need. I keep this list handy for reference so I can track what they may need.