Construction question. Building my @Aart style roosts and poop boards :D

My logic was that a 45 degree on both sides would force that L to be a 90. And even if it pushed it out the tension would bring more stability. As it is now. Im sure will have to replace the first 2 brackets or at least the braces.

Miraculously, when I left dh alone to put the 2nd set together, he figured out he had to set the angle on the saw exactly. And check it before each cut after. The 2nd set were perfect. :D

I have to give my guy mad props.

If it were left to me id still be planning. Lol

I can be too caught up in every detail. I think we balance eachother well.

It looks great, and either way you get your angles it will be the same “strength” was what I was meaning. One of my favorite tools right now is my speed square, as I mostly use 90* and 45* angles. And that way I can cut them with a cordless circular saw rather than having to use the mitre saw and start a generator for it.

It’s great when two peoples skills complement one another’s in a relationship. Sometimes it can make the process more challenging/stressful if you’re working with someone who does things differently, but overall you get a better end result working together from having the different perspectives on the project.

Honestly, I don’t think being off by 4* on a brace or two is going to have a huge impact on the “structural integrity” of the poop boards... Now there’s a phrase I never thought I’d need! I think it looks great! I do have to agree with @aart on the surface covering... the cardboard is a good quick start, but it doesn’t last long and gets a icky to move when it’s used. I tried cardboard this winter under my roosts and it sort of worked, but was pretty gross trying to clean it out.
 
I realize this is done and over with now, but maybe I can offer useful info for next time.
It's a matter of geometry 43 on one end would've been fine but the other end had to be the complement of 90. It was a chicken coop so the angles would've worked just not been tight. If you want a 45 angle brace you confirm your 90 by coming out of the corner the same distance on ea leg as well.
As you were recommended the orange arrows were the best direction. Reason being, it is always better to avoid going into end grain with nail or screw, unless you have to.
You will never likely be in a position that the slightly higher shear of a nail will be better than a screw. However I always use deck type screws not the skinny drwyall type screws. The only time I use a nail is in bulk framing and I use a nail gun then.
Screws are hold stronger, are easier to remove if you need to adjust or demo.
 
Agree... with one comment though, don’t build a wooden ladder with deck screws (don’t ask! It was only funny because no one got seriously hurt.)

You will never likely be in a position* that the slightly higher shear of a nail will be better than a screw.

*when building a chicken coop. (And it’s more than a slight difference for shear if you’re using proper nails) don’t ask how many gates, board fences, and cow feeders I’ve repaired this year with deckscrews that had sheared cleanly in half.

That said, I never use nails in my Tractor builds either! If you live in my area and want a Coop larger than 100sq feet... it’s required to conform to IBC and you have to have your plans stamped by a structural engineer (for a freaking chicken coop!!!). That’s why everything I’ve built either has wheels or is less than 4’ high. I admit my comment on nails was kind of snarky, but it was responding to someone saying they didn’t think it wails be as strong going with the red arrows. :oops:
 
Agree... with one comment though, don’t build a wooden ladder with deck screws (don’t ask! It was only funny because no one got seriously hurt.)



*when building a chicken coop. (And it’s more than a slight difference for shear if you’re using proper nails) don’t ask how many gates, board fences, and cow feeders I’ve repaired this year with deckscrews that had sheared cleanly in half.

That said, I never use nails in my Tractor builds either! If you live in my area and want a Coop larger than 100sq feet... it’s required to conform to IBC and you have to have your plans stamped by a structural engineer (for a freaking chicken coop!!!). That’s why everything I’ve built either has wheels or is less than 4’ high. I admit my comment on nails was kind of snarky, but it was responding to someone saying they didn’t think it wails be as strong going with the red arrows. :oops:


I thought that poster meant it wouldn't be as strong with the brace not fitting properly becuase the angles did not add up to 90 degrees.
 
I thought that poster meant it wouldn't be as strong with the brace not fitting properly becuase the angles did not add up to 90 degrees.

That could be... it’s frustrating for me to read vague comments though, there were three things quoted and just a ganereal comment on strength... even if you’re raising Jersey Giants, deck screws are almost always the best way to go as @st8yd points out. They pull things together nicely whereas nails can work loose, which is why the feeders here were repaired with screws, but they really don’t take much shear, which is why they need repaired yet again (I’m thinking with a burn pile to start ;)) watching my BIL’s self made ladder with deckscrews fail and him fall through it was good for entertainment tho, he also screwed into the endgrain, though it was the screws that caused the failure.
 
This is what I will do. I'm a flooring specialist at HD :D

If it’s not prying... Do they give you an employee discount? I know Rona/Lowe’s does 10%, but the Home Depot is closer to me... I’ve been considering it as a PT job, and that could be helpful as I’m building a house!
 

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