Coop calculations with run

[ReelFaster]

Whatever you do just go bigger than you originally thought if you are able to and have the space. You might add to your flock someday but if not your chickens have tons of room to be happy, it's a win win.....!

 

[K0k0shka]

You only need to lock them up at night if your run isn't predator proof. Chickens don't need a coop per se, and definitely don't need it locked, for any reasons other than safety from predators. They need shelter from the elements, and that's it. If the run is predator proof, you can leave the pop door open. Runs are bigger than coops and often it just gets too expensive to get them 100% secure, hence why a lot of people lock their chickens up at night. Daytime and nighttime predators are different, and what's safe enough during the day may not be safe enough at night. So, to be safe, it's easier and cheaper to build a secure coop and lock them up at night, than to have to secure the entire run at the same degree of safety.

My run is safe enough during the day, but I wouldn't trust it at night. It's too expensive to wrap everything in 1/2" hardware cloth at my size. So I have a very secure coop and an auto door, and my chickens are locked up at night.

 

[Mamatomany123]

Uh oh! I guess I'm in trouble because I NEVER lock my birds in the coop. Ever.

I don't either. They have access to the run 24/7 and sometimes choose to sleep out there on a Hot summer night. (We set up some roost under the covered portion). But our run is predator proof. I don't think I'd be able.to get in if I ever lot the key to.the run door

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you located? Climate matters, particularly when it comes to coops.

According to the Usual Guidelines, for each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop,
• 10 square feet in the run,
• 1 linear foot of roost,
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

For 8 hens you need:

• 32 square feet in the coop. 4'x8' is approaching the limits for a non-walk-in coop even with the access door in the middle. 6'x6' should be walk-in because even the tallest chicken-keeper won't be able to reach the far wall.
• 8 feet of roost
• 80 square feet in the run. 8'x10' is a nice looking number but, remembering the common dimensions of lumber, a roomier 8'x12' is actually easier to build. 6'x14' looks good on paper but would require a lot of weird cuts.
• 8 square feet of ventilation.
• 2-3 nest boxes.

These are, however, *guidelines*, not rules. This is a good article explaining that: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/how-much-room-do-chickens-need.66180/

Here is a thread on when you are likely to want more than the minimums for space: https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...ave-more-than-the-minimums-for-space.1462570/

Good for you asking questions and doing research before you build!

 

[aart]

These numbers are MINIMUMS. Especially for the run area. Make things as big as you can, on high well draining ground and if at all possible, put a solid roof on your run and divert water away from your set up.

Yes!

Much may depend on your climate.
So... Welcome to BYC! @Cbodine
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[Capto Veritas]

Uh oh! I guess I'm in trouble because I NEVER lock my birds in the coop. Ever.

If it is very secure, I guess it is fine. But, the chickens just seeing any predator can freak them out. Read my article: “Why you NEED a sturdy, ventilated chicken coop” for more information.