Coop design and feedback on roost placement

[NRHobbyFarm]

I looked up coop plans online and had to tweek them afterall they were free. The coop measure 4x8 ft including the nesting box area. I currently have 3 ladies and Rooster using it at the moment. I have 4 chicks (praying they are girls) that I will be adding. Should I change the orientation of my roosting bars. Interior is5’10” x 3’10” this is roosting area only sloping ceiling from 4’10 to 3’11.

I did add a window in the wall behind the nesting box addition with a fan because of the prolonged 100+ temps. Any suggestions from veteran chicken experts is greatly appreciated. I am scraping the floors daily and plan on using the deep litter method once the temps cool off.

 

[SmiYa0126]

Wow, nice coop!
@3KillerBs tagging an expert

 

[igorsMistress]

I don’t see why you’d need to change it if it works. You can still use shavings on the floor so you don’t have to scrape, but deep litter on wood will eventually rot the wood. If there’s any way you can provide shade for the coop from the afternoon sun without blocking air flow that would be a big help with those temps.

 

[NRHobbyFarm]

I don’t see why you’d need to change it if it works. You can still use shavings on the floor so you don’t have to scrape, but deep litter on wood will eventually rot the wood. If there’s any way you can provide shade for the coop from the afternoon sun without blocking air flow that would be a big help with those temps.

I just didn’t know if the roost orientation would provide enough space for 8 chickens and we are planning on putting an awning over it extending from the barn we used a tarp for temporary shade. Thanks I didn’t even think about the deep litter causing rot.

 

[3KillerBs]

Nice job!

You've got your ventilation in the right place, though I'm not sure you have enough of it. Here in the Steamy Southeast I find that I have to have at least double or triple the usual recommendation of 1 square foot per adult, standard-sized hen in order to keep the coop under 100F on a 90F day. The best way to check that is to put a thermometer in right where the chickens are. If it's the same temperature and humidity inside as it is outside then you're good.

I'm also a little concerned that your roof won't protect those vents when you get blowing rain. You might want to create some kind of awning for them.

There is a difference between Deep Litter, a moist, actively composting system, and Deep Bedding, a dry system. In a coop on a wood floor the latter is more practical because the composting action in Deep Litter would eat the floor. Both are fine in any weather because it's a very rare chicken coop that achieves hot compost and cold composting won't overheat the chickens.

Here is my article on Deep Bedding: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/using-deep-bedding-in-a-small-coop.76343/

Also my articles on hot climate chicken-keeping and coop ventilation:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

As for your actual question,

As long as you have around 8 feet of roost, as long as the roosts are above the height of the nests so the birds don't sleep in the nests, and as long as there is enough horizontal distance between the roost and the wall so that the birds can fly up and down (they fly at about a 45-degree angle), it doesn't matter what orientation the roosts are in.

There are advantages to having one long roost in the middle or off to one side -- especially when you're getting in there to clean. There are advantages to having several roosts -- allowing the flock to separate by age group and/or friendship groups.

 

[igorsMistress]

I just didn’t know if the roost orientation would provide enough space for 8 chickens and we are planning on putting an awning over it extending from the barn we used a tarp for temporary shade. Thanks I didn’t even think about the deep litter causing rot.

I see. I think you might regret the roost over that wood rail on the right in the first pic. Someone will be pooping all over it in my experience. I think the amount of roost you have is fine if comes to roughly 9 feet total. There are advantages to both single and multiple roost options as @3KillerBs says. The single roost still allows friends to hang out together in groups but some flocks argue a lot over being on the same roost and multiples are better. This is particularly the case when introducing new flock members in my experience. I’m not advocating one or the other.

 

[NRHobbyFarm]

Nice job!

You've got your ventilation in the right place, though I'm not sure you have enough of it. Here in the Steamy Southeast I find that I have to have at least double or triple the usual recommendation of 1 square foot per adult, standard-sized hen in order to keep the coop under 100F on a 90F day. The best way to check that is to put a thermometer in right where the chickens are. If it's the same temperature and humidity inside as it is outside then you're good.

I'm also a little concerned that your roof won't protect those vents when you get blowing rain. You might want to create some kind of awning for them.

There is a difference between Deep Litter, a moist, actively composting system, and Deep Bedding, a dry system. In a coop on a wood floor the latter is more practical because the composting action in Deep Litter would eat the floor. Both are fine in any weather because it's a very rare chicken coop that achieves hot compost and cold composting won't overheat the chickens.

Here is my article on Deep Bedding: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/using-deep-bedding-in-a-small-coop.76343/

Also my articles on hot climate chicken-keeping and coop ventilation:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/repecka-illustrates-coop-ventilation.77659/

As for your actual question,

As long as you have around 8 feet of roost, as long as the roosts are above the height of the nests so the birds don't sleep in the nests, and as long as there is enough horizontal distance between the roost and the wall so that the birds can fly up and down (they fly at about a 45-degree angle), it doesn't matter what orientation the roosts are in.

There are advantages to having one long roost in the middle or off to one side -- especially when you're getting in there to clean. There are advantages to having several roosts -- allowing the flock to separate by age group and/or friendship groups.

Thank you I did add clear plastic awnings over the windows because I too was worried about that. The rafters are all open 1/2 inch x 4 inches covered in small gage hardware cloth. The window I added is across from the window over the chicken door about 12”x12” and my roost bars are no less than 12” apart. I am going to read your article and definitely think I was referring to using a deep bed method not a composting I didn’t even realize there were two different methods. Thank you again! Should I leave the fan going that is blowing outside air through the coop to the opposite window? Or should it be reversed pulling air instead of pushing?

 

[NRHobbyFarm]

I see. I think you might regret the roost over that wood rail on the right in the first pic. Someone will be pooping all over it in my experience. I think the amount of roost you have is fine if comes to roughly 9 feet total. There are advantages to both single and multiple roost options as @3KillerBs says. The single roost still allows friends to hang out together in groups but some flocks argue a lot over being on the same roost and multiples are better. This is particularly the case when introducing new flock members in my experience. I’m not advocating one or the other.

I already have small squabbles over who sleeps by the rooster to the point he moved roost.

 

[3KillerBs]

Should I leave the fan going that is blowing outside air through the coop to the opposite window? Or should it be reversed pulling air instead of pushing?

I'm not a big fan of fans, personally.

I prefer passive airflow because it's always there even if the power fails (as it sometimes does on hot afternoons (though not as often as when I was young)), and because fans that aren't barn-rated and meant for use in a dusty environment can be significant fire hazards. Both the feather dander and the dust from the bedding are flammable.

@aart has a fan setup that is safer for regular fans. It pushes in and is sheltered from weather: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-fan-mount.75608/

 

[NRHobbyFarm]

I'm not a big fan of fans, personally.

I prefer passive airflow because it's always there even if the power fails (as it sometimes does on hot afternoons (though not as often as when I was young)), and because fans that aren't barn-rated and meant for use in a dusty environment can be significant fire hazards. Both the feather dander and the dust from the bedding are flammable.

@aart has a fan setup that is safer for regular fans. It pushes in and is sheltered from weather: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-fan-mount.75608/

I have mine set up similar except my awning is under the edge of the roof to below the fan. I am starting to feel better with all this feedback