Coop design feedback

[ChickenOfSpades]

I've shopped and deliberated, and I think I'm just gonna bite the bullet and build a coop from scratch. I drew up a quick wireframe of how I imagine the coop. I've attached images from different angles and showing the interior. The random dude with a dinosaur shirt and ukulele is there for scale...I don't personally play the ukulele, but am cool with dinosaur shirts. Also, obviously the real coop will have a complete roof, lol.

Needs:

• Will house 4-6 chickens
• High desert climate (very dry; 90F-100F peak of summer, 0F-10F peak of winter, quite nice spring/fall)
• Snow in winter...Chance to get periodic heavy snowfall and accumulation, so it has to hold up to that when it does happen
• My part of the valley commonly gets 15-25mph winds, usually in the evenings/night. Generally winds come from the North.
• ~15 hours of days near summer solstice, ~9 hour days near winter solstice
• Not a lot of shade in the yard yet - I am getting some trees in, but they won't be fully mature for some time.
• LOADS of hawks in my area that sometimes pick off doves and pigeons from my yard. They will be the biggest threat. Raccoons are possible but unlikely...maybe mink. My own 20lb dog will be back there frequently, and maybe the occasional neighborhood cat - other dogs shouldn't be able to get through the fence unless the gate gets left open accidentally.

Specs:

• Whole structure is 6' wide x 10' long x 7.5' tall (on the high side - 6' on the lower side).
• Coop itself is 6' W x 4' L
• 2 feet of headspace in the area under the coop.
• Each roost bar is 4' long, 1 foot apart horizontally, and vertically each is incrementally 6 inches taller
• Nesting boxes are 14" W x 12" D x 12" H (on the high end)...I suppose I could potentially get away with 2 boxes instead of 3...or two larger ones?
• Big vents on both sides below and above
• I imagine that the big coop access door is screened, and I'd like to engineer some sort of removable panel on the doors that let me close it up a bit for winter (I'm thinking some hefty rare earth magnets to easily attach it to the hardware cloth screen and handles to help take it on/off)
• I plan on attaching some shade netting/material to the run to help block the sun in the brutally hot weather - also they can find shade under the coop (and I'll pray that trees miraculously grow fast, lol)
• I plan on securing the whole structure from predators and leaving the coop door open 24/7 so they can seek shelter as needed.

Questions:

• The coop will need to run east/west (with the long sides facing north and south)...does it matter which side has the taller side (northern hemisphere)? If I put the short wall on the north side it would shed the wind and blowing snow/rain a bit better, but will also allow more air to blow through the run...if I put the short wall on the south side, it might offer some more protection from the sun, but may also block out some southern sun in winter.
• Is this too much ventilation for winter? (or not enough for that matter)?
• How buildable is this thing? Of course once it passes the initial BYC test I'll draw it out in more detail and figure out materials.
• Does it need to be insulated to help with both hot and cold weather?

Thanks!

Chicken coop wireframe drawing rev. 1

• ChickenOfSpades
• May 16, 2022
• 5

First draft of my chicken coop

 

[3KillerBs]

Building your own definitely gets you the best value for your money and a much, much better chance of getting a structure that actually meets the needs of the chickens and the needs of your climate.

You're in a challenging environment with both HOT summers and COLD winters.

I'm having a little trouble interpreting some of the features you're showing, but it may be more that I've been sick since before Easter and less of your drawing.

I'm pretty sure I've shown you the airflow diagram, right? And the hot and cold climate articles too, right? (I'm sorry, I lose track of who has asked what questions).

It's a good idea to plan for removable panels for summer vs winter given that your climate sees both extremes. I don't know if magnets are the best idea though. I'd be more inclined to go with old-fashioned bolts myself.

I think you should plan on some panels like that for the upwind side(s) of your run as well in order to block winter storm winds.

Extending your roof overhangs generously helps with the shade problem and reduces the amount of windblown rain and snow that get into the run.

For 6 hens you'll only need 2 nests. Your proposed size is well within the usual range.

 

[ChickenOfSpades]

Bolts totally work, I'm just being a nerd with the magnets, lol. Although since we get big swings in the same week (or even the same day), I thought it might be nice not to have to bolt/unbolt it all the time .

Here are the magnetic latches I had in mind. I'd mount one side to the permanent screened side and the removable panel. Certainly spendier than a bolt, but I'd just chalk it up to experimental nerdery. Haha

https://www.magnetics.com/product.asp?ProductID=176

 

[21hens-incharge]

My thoughts....

To many roosts for number of birds desired. They will hang out indoors more in winter so will need the floor space.

You don't need low vents under the nest box. Nests.....on the low side will have water/ice pouring on them all winter and any rain will shed onto them too. I would put them under the roof inside the run to prevent the wet altogether. Yes that means going into the run to gather eggs.
Going 12" high on the high side will be a bit short for them on the low side. Chickens actually stand when the egg is finally laid. I recommend going 12 high on the low side and 14-15 on the high side.

I would put the tall side facing south and increase the roof overhang.
No one wants water pouring on them when cleaning the coop. Standing on ice or in mud isn't much fun either so that's another point for tall side facing south.

Alternatively putting nests on the tall side with a window above them and clean out doors inside the run means never standing in the rain or mud to clean things up while being able to gather eggs without going into the run.

With nests not fully protected by the run roof I recommend having access from the back wall so the lid can be a stationary lid....fully sealed from the weather.

However you choose to latch things make it predator proof. It's never fun to find a decimated flock due to a failed latch system.

 

[21hens-incharge]

One more bit of advice.....

Make that low side taller. Rounding the corner and getting a hit in the head from the roof corner hurts. If using metal prepare to hang something near those corners that will force you (or others moving around the coop) to step away to prevent injury.

 

[MACCanadianCoop]

You have planned the minimum recommended coop/run space for your birds. If possible to expand it even a few feet in 1 or 2 directions, I would.

Also, right now you have your nest boxes directly in the path of the roof run off. So all the rain and snow is going to fall straight onto them. Either move them to inside the run, as suggested above, or extend your roof overhang so they will be sheltered.

Good luck with your build.

 

[knobhillfarm]

You’ve gotten great advice so far. One thing I will add is to think about a small access door for the portion under the raised coop that you can reach into without being on your hands and knees in the run. Here’s an example of one I added to mine and it has been a lifesaver as well as a quick portal to put food and water in the well protected area of the run without having to walk in. In retrospect, I wish I had centered it on adjacent side to I could more easily reach the whole area.

 

[rosemarythyme]

Lots of good points above.

I'd plan for a big vent on the inside wall facing into the run, as that should be decently protected from climate. The hot summers are going to be more problematic for the chickens to deal with than the colder winter, so going "overboard" on ventilation would be better, especially if you can finagle ways to partially close some of it up during winter to keep the winter storms out.

At most you're only going to need 2 roosts, presuming you will not go over 6 chickens.

Insulation just takes up wall space and provides hiding spots for rodents, and your highs and lows aren't THAT high nor THAT low, so spare yourself the expense.

 

[3KillerBs]

One more bit of advice.....

Make that low side taller. Rounding the corner and getting a hit in the head from the roof corner hurts. If using metal prepare to hang something near those corners that will force you (or others moving around the coop) to step away to prevent injury.

Proof of this here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/another-reason-to-build-a-full-height-coop-run.1484191/

Also, height is your best friend when it comes to ventilation since it enables you to put the vents well up above the roosts -- allowing a free flow of air without risk of feather-ruffling drafts on the roost.

 

[3KillerBs]

• Whole structure is 6' wide x 10' long x 7.5' tall (on the high side - 6' on the lower side).
• Coop itself is 6' W x 4' L

You have planned the minimum recommended coop/run space for your birds. If possible to expand it even a few feet in 1 or 2 directions, I would.

I am feeling better this morning and better able to see details like this.

If you expand to 8x12 you will not only give your birds a little extra elbow room (or allow for a little storage space), you will find it easier to build because lumber comes in multiples of 4 feet.

You can get 6-foot boards easily enough by cutting a 12' in half, BUT that10-foot measurement means cutting 2 feet off every 12-foot board and throwing it away.

8x12 uses the boards as they come with no cutting and no waste while giving the birds more space. Win, win, win.