Coop Floor Dilemma

[keltown]

I had 5 chickens and this coop works great! I use sand on the bottom but the main thing is the roosts are right there when I open the door and I have a dropping board underneath. So every morning I open the door, scrape the boards and the coop stays clean. Occasionally dropping will hit the floor but I scoop them out like kitty litter.

My girls free range all day and have a large run so are only in the coop at night or to lay eggs.

 

[mrs3rrl]

I started with 4 chickens 10 years ago. All were supposed to be hens. Right. One turned out to be a rooster, and those 4 hens multiplied into 22 at the height of our flock. We started with one coop that we built using the back wall of the garage as one coop wall. Added 4 'condos'. Moved from California to Idaho and now we're starting all over again (again, 4 chickens..... one turned out to be a rooster).

To all the newbies, I say: Don't worry about conflicting info. Nothing is perfect in life. Whatever you try first, you will find things you would do differently next time. Relax, build what you can, and then enjoy your chickens.

Here's what I learned from my first experience that I am changing:

1. I would not have anything except a dirt floor! I used the deep litter method (much to my hubby's consternation), and wouldn't have it any other way. HOWEVER, if you don't have a solid roof over the straw, and it rains, the straw will get incredibly stinky! We originally wanted a roof over just part of the coop, so the girls would feel like they were outdoors sometimes. For this coop, we have the solid roof over the whole thing.

2. When building our original coop, we used large plastic coffee containers to pour concrete into, to support the vertical posts. Then we had 4x4's laid on the ground between them to nail/staple the chicken wire. We had no trouble with the plentiful rats in the area, but the ground squirrels managed to dig tunnels into the pen and eat the feed. My solution? Fill the holes inside the coop with chicken and dog poop. Worked every time.... although eventually they would dig a new hole. I always knew when a new hole broke through because the chickens made such a racket when a 'stranger' popped into their coop.

3. If you plan on a deep litter system, think about how to get a wheelbarrow over to under the roost area. Or make an opening that you can shovel litter from inside to the outside. Our first coop was 10x20, with a large boulder i the middle. Naturally, the roosts were on the opposite side of the boulder from the door. I could (barely) get the wheelbarrow through the door, but couldn't get it over to the roosts, around the boulder. It was tough work shoveling the compost over to the wheelbarrow.

4. Our original coop had the nests inside, which was a problem because they kept hanging on top of them and pooping on the roofs. It was also sometimes a PITA to go in to collect eggs. Also, we had one rooster which was at the bottom of the pecking order that would go sleep in them, pooping INSIDE them. When we built our condos, we built the nests externally, with a only small platform inside, and a 'ladder' up to the platform. Worked out much better.

 

[Husker Chick]

I also have a 4x8 coop, where I keep 8-9 hens. It's plenty big enough.
I have all kinds of predators, but have never had a rat. I doubt you will either. And if you do, you'll learn, tweak things, and move on.
Stop torturing yourself. You're doing fine. I stopped asking questions here long ago, as sometimes the responses were so conflicting - and often just plain wrong. If you're reading some good, reputable resources/books/magazines, you'll do great. There isn't one perfect way to do the chicken thing. Just do it.

 

[aart]

So true! The thread on Emergencies/Diseases/Injuries is utterly TERRIFYING. I already have medicine stockpiled based off a list in another thread). My only hope is that if I am as prepared as I can be and have built the safest impossible environment and make sure I feed them the right food, a lot of those nasties can be avoided!

At least, that's what I HOPE.

Be careful there...don't be too quick to apply those medications.

Researching and planning the coop was rather tortuous, and I'm an equipment designer by trade, took me about 9 months to plan before building....but I avoided a lot of mistakes by reading about other peoples. Hang in there, the first year plus planning stage is like getting a sip of water out of a fire hose, but you'll survive!

 

[Judy5354]

Hi, there. I am building a coop for a chicken-filled future. I have read just about every BYC thread dealing with coop floors, have taken into consideration many contributors' suggestions and advice, viewed hundreds (probably thousands) of images of coops and runs... I didn't want to start a new thread without first doing my due diligence, but despite my best efforts at self-edification, I still can't make a decision about the coop floor. I'd appreciate some feedback, if you are so inclined...

Background info:

• My coop will be 4' x 8' for 4 (maybe 5) hens
• Run will be 8' x 8'
• The ladies will free range part of every day and most weekends
• It will be a walk in coop
• I wanted a dirt floor for compost via the DLM
• I live in Northern California in a semi-rural area; won't be a problem keeping things dry here
• I've got raccoons, skunks, opossum, owls, hawks, rats, mice
• Got enough hardware cloth for an apron around the whole perimeter

After reading, I am now worried about rats. I still want a dirt floor, but don't want rats in my coop.

Some things I've considered:
1) Raising the coop a bit, putting in a floor, laying linoleum or applying a water-proofing membrane, attempt a modified DLM
Pros: Increased critter fortification
Cons: Cost, more work/time, higher profile that might annoy the neighbors, losing the dirt floor

2) Burying hardware cloth under the coop (not the run) and burying it beneath enough dirt that I can still enjoy a dirt floor
Pros: I still get a dirt floor, increased critter fortification
Cons: Lotsa work/time, cost, not sure how long the hardware cloth will hold up and maintain efficacy

3) I've become paranoid and need to just go with my original plan
Pros: I don't have to spend any more money than I already have, I get the dirt floor I want, DLM is good to go
Cons: Possible lost sleep over critter concerns, having to admit hubby is right about the paranoia thing

Good gravy.
I am a hot mess.


Help a girl out? What should I do? I'm starting to build THIS MORNING!!!! T minus 3 hours and counting..........

May I suggest.....don't over think this. Build your coop as you have planned. Place hardware cloth around the perimeters of the coop to deter any varmit from digging in. No matter what you do or don't do, you will have a learning curve. You will lose a few along the way. No matter what. Enjoy your chickens and learn from it. From experience I can suggest an outside cat to help control mice/rats. A cat worked for my mouse problem as well as a couple of guineas. Happy chicken keeping!

 

[jreardon1918]

Jump in, the water is fine. You have done a good job of researching. I did a bunch of research and would change some things. Including building a raised non-walk-in coop. Yet, it accommodates seven hens beautifully. The way the coop is designed, I rarely need to enter it. It is 4x8 with a primary run of 8x12. If the coop or run or anything ever becomes a huge issue, I will adjust. One and a half years, 1,300 eggs as of yesterday.

 

[Howard E]

I think what you decide to do with the floor revolves 100% around the issue of rats. If you know them to be a problem in your area, the very best step 1 you can employ to head them off is a cement floor. Regarding rat proofing a structure, that has been the case for nearly 100 years. Rats cannot dig and tunnel through cement. They can get past almost all other floors. (Not sure about pressure treated lumber, but other lumber......yes they can). A cement floor also solves all other issues with digging predators. With a cement base (slightly elevated to drain), you can easily place a predator proof structure on top of it. And despite what some might think, you can also employ the DLM method on top of cement. By deep, that means 8" to start.

The only downside to cement is it is semi-permanent. It will be with you long past any chicken house you build to go with it. But it can also be re-purposed as a base for other structures if you eventually decide chickens are not for you......or if you move and the next person to come along wants something else.

 

[Aunt Angus]

Chicks are here - silly little fluff balls! Four of them: Plymouth Barred Rock, Buff Orp, Buff Brahma, White Cochin. They are in the brooder, thriving thus far, and giving me time to finish my coop.

I have a 4 x 8 (as planned) that is on a foundation of sand and gravel. It has a wood floor that I coated the underside with waterproofing compound. It's the kind used to waterproof beneath tile. I had a bunch left over from a bathroom remodel. It isn't *technically* designed for use on wood, but when I first bought it for the bathroom, I doubted its efficacy, so I used it on a cardboard box to test it out. I filled the box with water, left it on my patio for weeks, and it never leaked. I only used that on the outside of the coop. Everything is sealed and caulked, too. And I set hardware cloth underneath the floor (on the underside between the floor and the gravel).

So far, I have painted every component with Killz. I only have the floor and framing done as of this moment. I will attach the hardware cloth apron next. Once that's on, I will attach the siding. I used composite siding that is rated for exterior use. That is already primed and will be painted with exterior semi-gloss.

I am a high school teacher, and I have to go back to work today for Senior Paint Day (where the seniors get a "square" of the sidewalk to paint). Should be fun, but after all the painting I've done this week, I am NOT looking forward to it!

This weekend, I will frame and attach the windows. I will also frame, construct, and attach the door. Then more paintinggggggggg........ I have the roof panels (corrugated, powder coated steel) on order. Should show up in a couple of weeks. And I still need to get the run put together. I don't think I yet have enough lumber to complete that. I may have to spend $$$.

MY FAVE PART: My students did a community service project a couple of years ago where they built stand alone solar units that were sent to the Philippines for rural school houses. I have one unit still hanging out in my classroom (the one I used to demonstrate construction for the kids). I will attach it to my coop, panel either on the roof or set up as a shade area in the run. It will be enough to power the coop - no prob!

So far, I have managed to use recycled wood and free stuff form Craigslist. The only expense I've had is the roof, the hardware cloth, and fasteners. And I "splurged" and picked up a couple of cans of "oops" paint from Home Depot. I also picked up a couple of thermometers and humidity meters on Amazon. Grand total (thus far): $180.

My phone has been on the fritz since getting back from Vietnam a couple of weeks ago, but I promise to post pics soon!

THANK YOU, BYC FOLKS for all of the advice! I think I will be happy with my coop. So far so good!

 

[Aunt Angus]

I think what you decide to do with the floor revolves 100% around the issue of rats. If you know them to be a problem in your area, the very best step 1 you can employ to head them off is a cement floor.

I agree, but I don't know how to do that. I am on my own with this project (hubby refuses to help). I am doing the best I can. So I compromised by putting a sheet of hardware cloth under the floor. I am not sure rats ARE a problem. I have never seen one, but I figure they are everywhere. None of my chicken-keeping neighbors says they have had problems with rats, but I don't want to chance it. I *wish* I could lay cement, but I am pretty new at the whole construction thing. The only other slightly significant project I have under my belt is a bathroom remodel. No laying cement involved with that....

Sorry....

 

[Aunt Angus]

I stopped asking questions here long ago, as sometimes the responses were so conflicting - and often just plain wrong. If you're reading some good, reputable resources/books/magazines, you'll do great.

BEST. ADVICE. YET.