Coop roof redo

Now if someone can figure out my house roofing issues, I'll be a happy lady!
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Measure carefully before ordering the metal roofing. The company will cut it to length to fit your measurements. You have a choice of at least three different ridge types. I would suggest you get one with vents built-in. I also suggest you install the purlins to insure the result is a one-time roof job. All the metal roofing I've used has come in 30 inch widths. It is hard to match up 16 or 24 on center rafters with 30 inch material. With the purlins every 24 inches down from the peak you can always find a spot to put in a screw.

Note * * * My son found it easier to drill a starter hole when he screwed down our garden shed roof and those special screws are a great idea.
 
Measure carefully before ordering the metal roofing. The company will cut it to length to fit your measurements. You have a choice of at least three different ridge types. I would suggest you get one with vents built-in. I also suggest you install the purlins to insure the result is a one-time roof job. All the metal roofing I've used has come in 30 inch widths. It is hard to match up 16 or 24 on center rafters with 30 inch material. With the purlins every 24 inches down from the peak you can always find a spot to put in a screw.

Note * * * My son found it easier to drill a starter hole when he screwed down our garden shed roof and those special screws are a great idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Afterburner

The present roof is five feet by four feet with a single slope.


Sounds like an easy enough job, I'd think a single 10' piece chopped in half (or 12' in thirds for lower pitch) at the shop would just about do it. Difficult part is avoiding slicing yourself on the metal, assuming the roof stands near chest or head height!
 
Im not a roofer but here is what I would do.

I tried chip board for a roof to my rabbit run and it worked for 1 winter. By the second (this year) so much moisture has built up its becoming kinda flexable and slimmy. I was told that chipboard does not hold up long against moisture so best idea for my roof by a roofer:

For an outdoor project like a shed or coop or run, to use plywood as a bottom and seal it with even a cheap water sealer then tar paper and then metal roofing. Make sure to use screws made for metal roofing with rubber washers or it will not be water tight.

The tar paper prevents moisture from building up under the metal and sitting on the plywood itself. Water proofer will help ensure the plywood will last as long as possible.

This should give you a 30+ year roof with no further maintenance or complications. But you definatly want to remove the old chipboard as its been leaking and probably already absorbed at leased some water. The damage has already been done to it. Also adding the 1x4s is a good idea to and I will definatly use that when I do ours.

Good luck! Oh and I would use the green metal jus becuase I heard it doesn't get as hot as the shinny silver 1 does...... I could be wrong though?
 
For an outdoor project like a shed or coop or run, to use plywood as a bottom and seal it with even a cheap water sealer then tar paper and then metal roofing. Make sure to use screws made for metal roofing with rubber washers or it will not be water tight.


I have some stain/sealer that I used on my ceder fence. Would that work for coating my roofing plywood before I nailed it to the trusses?
 
I see we all have different ideas. So mine is remove the roof entirely. Anything that has gotten wet is rotting also. Put down furring strips, 1X4's, on the roof rafters every 12 inches to screw the roofing onto. Be sure the roof overhangs 12 inches top and bottom. Then if were me I would insulate the roof section with R-19 bat. That has a paper backing with a 1 and a half strip on either side to staple it to the underside of the rafter. Then I would cover the insulation with some type of a 1/4 inch OSB then paint it white. That roof will never be redone again.
 
Quote:
Older types of metal roofing used a 2 ft spacing.

Many types today can be spaced 5 ft apart and still be stong enough to walk on.

Putting them 1 ft apart is a waste of good lumber as well as making more screwholes and potential leaks in the future

On a roof the small size of this one, I'd run the 1 X 4's around the edges to keep out water, and run just one in the center


Quote:
 
To each his own. A friend sawed mine so it cost me nothing. Anyway, I spaced mine 12" to match the screw holes put in the metal from my house. I had a new roof put on. That's the way it was spaced when I had my home moved 24 years ago. I live in an old log home, 1850's or so. I can promise the metal on my house spaced at 5 foot will not work. But if it does for you, go for it.
 

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