Coop run roof is done!!

Soujrnr

Songster
Feb 18, 2023
139
365
156
Kingsport, Tennessee
We were getting so much rain here that the shavings in the run never dried. So, to mitigate that slop fest I built a roof over the run. Here is the finished product!

We'll be adding new dry pine shavings very soon in preparation for cooler weather, and just to thicken up the bedding.


20230924_143207.jpg
 
Congratulations on getting a roof installed!

However I'm going give my criticism and say this has major design flaws in how the roof is being supported (or not supported in this case). As-is this roof has no redundancy in the design in terms of continuing the load path from roof, down to the ground. Everything looks surface-mounted with only hardware and no wood underneath these crucial support areas. Given the large size of that roof I would say it's not an acceptable design, even for a chicken coop, and I would for sure make changes for safety reasons.

From your build pics, both front and rear horizontal 2x4s being used for a top plate/support beam between the 4x4 posts, are only surface-mounted using hardware; hardware can shear off, thus is not safe to rely on for supporting loads. I think the 2x4 would be ok supporting this lightweight roof as long as it was supported underneath, but it's not currently. All those areas where the 4x4 posts connect to it, absolutely need wood underneath, to continue the load path down to the foundation and create redundancy. Even if you did the minimum and simply sistered a 2x4 "jack stud" underneath the beam onto the 4x4 posts, this would be a MUCH safer design. If you didn't want to do this, you could alternatively cut a rabbet/shoulder into the 4x4 post and recess these horizontals - this is how I supported my roof structure instead of sistering lumber together.

Same thing with the roof - those 2x4 hangers/columns are only surface mounted at both the top and bottom of them, relying on fasteners only. First you need to address the horizontal support beam underneath, then you can redesign these supports to the roof. You may be able to sister another piece of 2x4 between the rafters and the horizontal beam, so the load path is continuous to the ground.

Sorry if it seems I'm bashing on your accomplishment, but IMO it's definitely unsafe and hopefully you can see the reasons why. If you need help figuring out exactly what to do, myself and I'm sure others would be willing to help you make the necessary design corrections without tearing down the roof and starting all over.
 
Congratulations on getting a roof installed!

However I'm going give my criticism and say this has major design flaws in how the roof is being supported (or not supported in this case). As-is this roof has no redundancy in the design in terms of continuing the load path from roof, down to the ground. Everything looks surface-mounted with only hardware and no wood underneath these crucial support areas. Given the large size of that roof I would say it's not an acceptable design, even for a chicken coop, and I would for sure make changes for safety reasons.

From your build pics, both front and rear horizontal 2x4s being used for a top plate/support beam between the 4x4 posts, are only surface-mounted using hardware; hardware can shear off, thus is not safe to rely on for supporting loads. I think the 2x4 would be ok supporting this lightweight roof as long as it was supported underneath, but it's not currently. All those areas where the 4x4 posts connect to it, absolutely need wood underneath, to continue the load path down to the foundation and create redundancy. Even if you did the minimum and simply sistered a 2x4 "jack stud" underneath the beam onto the 4x4 posts, this would be a MUCH safer design. If you didn't want to do this, you could alternatively cut a rabbet/shoulder into the 4x4 post and recess these horizontals - this is how I supported my roof structure instead of sistering lumber together.

Same thing with the roof - those 2x4 hangers/columns are only surface mounted at both the top and bottom of them, relying on fasteners only. First you need to address the horizontal support beam underneath, then you can redesign these supports to the roof. You may be able to sister another piece of 2x4 between the rafters and the horizontal beam, so the load path is continuous to the ground.

Sorry if it seems I'm bashing on your accomplishment, but IMO it's definitely unsafe and hopefully you can see the reasons why. If you need help figuring out exactly what to do, myself and I'm sure others would be willing to help you make the necessary design corrections without tearing down the roof and starting all over.
Just to highlight the issue ... this portion of the roof is entirely held by the the integrity of the 4 screwed highlighted in green. Or, failure at the point of the 4 blue highlighted screws. Not to mention, forces could wreck havoc on that single 2x4. That corner 4x4 can hold a lot of weight, but it's two screws that are holding the weight on that corner instead of the piece of wood.

Those 2x4's are great for holding up the hardware cloth, but not structurally strong enough to hold up the roof as designed.

20230924_143207_edit.jpg
 
Congratulations on getting a roof installed!

However I'm going give my criticism and say this has major design flaws in how the roof is being supported (or not supported in this case). As-is this roof has no redundancy in the design in terms of continuing the load path from roof, down to the ground. Everything looks surface-mounted with only hardware and no wood underneath these crucial support areas. Given the large size of that roof I would say it's not an acceptable design, even for a chicken coop, and I would for sure make changes for safety reasons.

From your build pics, both front and rear horizontal 2x4s being used for a top plate/support beam between the 4x4 posts, are only surface-mounted using hardware; hardware can shear off, thus is not safe to rely on for supporting loads. I think the 2x4 would be ok supporting this lightweight roof as long as it was supported underneath, but it's not currently. All those areas where the 4x4 posts connect to it, absolutely need wood underneath, to continue the load path down to the foundation and create redundancy. Even if you did the minimum and simply sistered a 2x4 "jack stud" underneath the beam onto the 4x4 posts, this would be a MUCH safer design. If you didn't want to do this, you could alternatively cut a rabbet/shoulder into the 4x4 post and recess these horizontals - this is how I supported my roof structure instead of sistering lumber together.

Same thing with the roof - those 2x4 hangers/columns are only surface mounted at both the top and bottom of them, relying on fasteners only. First you need to address the horizontal support beam underneath, then you can redesign these supports to the roof. You may be able to sister another piece of 2x4 between the rafters and the horizontal beam, so the load path is continuous to the ground.

Sorry if it seems I'm bashing on your accomplishment, but IMO it's definitely unsafe and hopefully you can see the reasons why. If you need help figuring out exactly what to do, myself and I'm sure others would be willing to help you make the necessary design corrections without tearing down the roof and starting all over.
I agree.. needs some tweaking. Lucky he's in Tennessee and doesn't have to worry about snow load.
I don't think the jack posts will work as the 4x4s are not installed as king posts, and it's hard to tell from the angle of the pic, but I don't think the sistered boards would line up with anything to help with support.
 
Great advice, guys!! Thanks. I see all of your concerns quite clearly. There really is very little load on the 2x4s because the roofing panels are light and we don't get snow to speak of here. However, I can definitely see how it could use some shoring up. I'll see what I can do.
 
Great advice, guys!! Thanks. I see all of your concerns quite clearly. There really is very little load on the 2x4s because the roofing panels are light and we don't get snow to speak of here. However, I can definitely see how it could use some shoring up. I'll see what I can do.
What fasteners you used would make a big difference too.
Deck screws don't have much shear strength, but if you used 1/4" lag screws then it will be much stronger.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom