Coop/run upgrade help

[Esrun]

Okay! Where were you wanting the coop? On the right side of the run in the picture, or in the back of it?

I am open to either option. The back wall (opposite the door) is the 8’ side and the wall to the right (opposite the shed) is the 10’ side. I’m trying to figure out which side would create the least obstructive view, which maybe sounds odd. I think that might be the back. And the back might just make the most sense in terms of where the door is to get into the run. Although that door will eventually be removed so that I can expand the run. If you were doing that would you actually remove the whole side the door is on or just take the door off? I’m not sure we can dismantle that “wall”.

 

[Esrun]

If I did a 4x8 coop I could have an 8’ long roost (and maybe an 4’ low roost on the short side for my silkies? and put the egg boxes on the front on either the left or right side. Maybe I can make large doors that swing open for ease of cleaning. I could do the entire top with a vent around under the coop roof. One of my girls insists on sleeping on TOP of the coop. I’m hopeful she doesn’t do that with the new coop. I put inside if it’s very cold out. But she is very insistent and it’s probably bc I don’t have any roost in my teeeny coop.

 

[rosemarythyme]

If I did a 4x8 coop I could have an 8’ long roost (and maybe an 4’ low roost on the short side for my silkies?

That sounds like a plan. IMO always good to have at least 2 roosts in case there's any bullying issues, so there's another roost available. Silkies may not roost at all.

I could do the entire top with a vent around under the coop roof.

How much sq ft of ventilation would that provide? Like how many inches high would the vent be?

One of my girls insists on sleeping on TOP of the coop. I’m hopeful she doesn’t do that with the new coop. I put inside if it’s very cold out. But she is very insistent and it’s probably bc I don’t have any roost in my teeeny coop.

Since she has no option right now for roosting she's made her own.

 

[Esrun]

That sounds like a plan. IMO always good to have at least 2 roosts in case there's any bullying issues, so there's another roost available. Silkies may not roost at all.

How much sq ft of ventilation would that provide? Like how many inches high would the vent be?

Since she has no option right now for roosting she's made her own.

If I have a 4’ tall coop would that allow enough room for ventilation? I’m assuming 20” roosts so they can walk underneath, which gives me maybe 3” upper perimeter around the coop on three sides for ventilation? Is that enough? Or should I lower my roosts?

 

[rosemarythyme]

If I have a 4’ tall coop would that allow enough room for ventilation? I’m assuming 20” roosts so they can walk underneath, which gives me maybe 3” upper perimeter around the coop on three sides for ventilation? Is that enough? Or should I lower my roosts?

It'd be 3" by how many feet of wall? A 4x8 coop with 3" open on top would be 24 linear ft of walls, which yields 6 sq ft of vents, so that's enough for 6 birds in a moderate climate (no hot summers).

 

[Esrun]

It'd be 3" by how many feet of wall? A 4x8 coop with 3" open on top would be 24 linear ft of walls, which yields 6 sq ft of vents, so that's enough for 6 birds in a moderate climate (no hot summers).

Ok. I think 8’ front and back and 4’ on one side? Maybe I should underestimate that by a few inches. So I should make it taller to allow a larger vent space?

 

[rosemarythyme]

Ok. I think 8’ front and back and 4’ on one side? Maybe I should underestimate that by a few inches. So I should make it taller to allow a larger vent space?

Yes, if you can. Assuming it's 8+8+4 in total vent width, then a 5" tall vent on those 3 walls would yield 8.3 sq ft in vents which would meet minimum recommendation for 8 in a moderate climate.

 

[Esrun]

Yes, if you can. Assuming it's 8+8+4 in total vent width, then a 5" tall vent on those 3 walls would yield 8.3 sq ft in vents which would meet minimum recommendation for 8 in a moderate climate.

Ok. I could probably go taller if I need to. But this size coop would only be able to handle about 8 bird’s comfortably, right? So I’m not sure it has to be taller. I’ll have to play around with number to make sure the vents aren’t too low. Is there a general guideline as to how far above the roosts they should be?

 

[rosemarythyme]

Ok. I could probably go taller if I need to. But this size coop would only be able to handle about 8 bird’s comfortably, right? So I’m not sure it has to be taller. I’ll have to play around with number to make sure the vents aren’t too low. Is there a general guideline as to how far above the roosts they should be?

A 4x8 coop would meet recommended minimum for 8 standard birds. If you are planning on doing a lot of integration (addition and subtraction) or have things that will eat up floor space, like nests, you would likely need something larger.

Taller mainly adds more air volume and opportunity for ventilation. Like my coop is very tall (9.5' at peak) so it adds a lot of air volume to help eat up moisture and odors.

On the most basic level figure birds stand 12" over the roost, so ventilation should be high enough above that that they won't get wind blowing on their heads.

Keep in mind that it's not that cut and dry, like I have open windows right at roost level and they stay open even below freezing without issue because they don't face predominant wind directions, so there's no draft to contend with. The times that there are unusually strong storms, yes I have to close some of those because that's when the sideways wind is strong enough that rain and snow can blow in.

 

[Esrun]

A 4x8 coop would meet recommended minimum for 8 standard birds. If you are planning on doing a lot of integration (addition and subtraction) or have things that will eat up floor space, like nests, you would likely need something larger.

Taller mainly adds more air volume and opportunity for ventilation. Like my coop is very tall (9.5' at peak) so it adds a lot of air volume to help eat up moisture and odors.

On the most basic level figure birds stand 12" over the roost, so ventilation should be high enough above that that they won't get wind blowing on their heads.

Keep in mind that it's not that cut and dry, like I have open windows right at roost level and they stay open even below freezing without issue because they don't face predominant wind directions, so there's no draft to contend with. The times that there are unusually strong storms, yes I have to close some of those because that's when the sideways wind is strong enough that rain and snow can blow in.

Thanks. We have not added to our flock in a while and don’t generally want to do a lot of in and out w birds. My goal is just to get us up to a bit larger sized flock (say 6-7 total) until I can use the shed. Of course in my mind I’m thinking “if I want 6-7 total I need to over buy birds to account for potential roosters and any odd losses”. I suppose this is where chicken math sneaks in I try to explain to my husband that if I have 3 bantams and want 6 total birds that is 3+3(then add 2 or 3 to account for roos/losses), so really 3+3=9.