Coop stud spacing

[huntersdad]

Think I may go with 2 foot o.c for all framing then I have the option of using 2 or 4 foot cloth. Placing studs and rafters on 3 foot centers seems like it would use more lumber on the roof. I plan to go with shingles over osb, I would have to add rafters so the plywood would break on 4 and 8 foot layouts. The roof will be 10x18 if I do a one foot overhang all around

 

[huntersdad]

Think I may have come up with my own solution, I will make the coop 5x8 and frame walls at 3ft o.c. I will run a top plate over double 2x4( to hide the wire ends). I will have the extra half inch of the top plate to the inside. That way I can lay out my rafters 2 ft on center. Only leaves me with the question of will 2x4 suffice over an 8 foot span or would I be better suited with using 2x6?

 

[123RedBeard]

Unless your planning on a large snow load on the roof ... a 2x4 rafter is plenty ...

 

[OhZark Biddies]

2x4 @ 24” oc with a low snow load would likely work, with osb deck and asphalt shingles, but I’d be tempted to price out 2x6s and see if the offset in price was doable... or maybe go 2x4 @ 16” oc just for peace of mind if you’re a bit unsure


But for 36” oc I think that might be pushing it? But the typical span tables and calculators don’t include data for 36” oc ... so? But you can compare the calculator results or table data to get an idea of where the limits are. I’d just go at least 24” oc if it were me though.

Here are some links, you might find others maybe even with 36” spacing if you search a bit more.

Calcs span:
https://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc

Calcs rafter size:
https://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/reversecalc

Span tables:
https://www.awc.org/pdf/codes-standards/publications/span-tables/AWC-SpanTables2015-1505.pdf

 

[huntersdad]

I think I'm going to go with 2 foot on Center for studs and rafters. I also think that I may go with 2 by 6 for the rafters being that I've got 8 foot span. I remember someone telling me before that a 2x4 will sag under its own weight over an 8 foot span. Also I don't know yet if I'm going to go with metal or shingles at this point. I need to price both out. I've been looking at the palace coup as well as the Wichita and just not sure if I want to go with that direction on my build or if I want to add a top plate like standard framing and have my rafter sit on top.

 

[OhZark Biddies]

I actually took a few minutes and laid out the witchita in a 3D cad application yesterday to mentally step through the process of framing it like the pics on line... it was hard for me to do because I guess I think in standard framing methods, etc. ... I think it would take a lot of temporary bracing to “stick build” it as done in the pics to keep everything square and plumb... but obviously could be done.

I’d just do top plates, etc too if it were me.

If you do metal roof 2x4 @ 24” oc should be fine, as it’d be quite a bit lighter.

 

[aart]

I actually took a few minutes and laid out the witchita in a 3D cad application yesterday to mentally step through the process of framing it like the pics on line... it was hard for me to do because I guess I think in standard framing methods, etc

It's crazy!!... a lot of coop builds are, especial the coop/run combos.
If I had to start a coop from scratch, I'd just build a big 'shed' with standard framing and large roof overhangs.

 

[Egghead_Jr]

I would never use standard framing for outbuildings. They don't need it. 2ft on center is far more than you need for a coop but you still need a nailer every 2ft for the sheathing so it's what I do. Most of the time 2x3 timber is same price as 2x4 so it doesn't matter, if cheaper then I use 2x3's because overbuilding is just more money. The roof should be 16 on center as it holds snow. What's amazing to me is people use 2x6's on short roofs, again, way overbuilt.

16 on center and large timber frame are for residential. The reason, besides convention now uses 16 inch insulation and we want 6 inches deep insulation, is we don't want our finished houses to flex. It pops joints and screw heads on sheetrock and so on. To keep the interior finish looking nice we make stiff buildings. An unfinished outbuilding like shed or barn can flex all they want. It doesn't make the building shorter lifespan. Having timber on ground and not staining or painting exterior does.

 

[huntersdad]

Palace coop is basically the same as the wichita. It's just bigger and taller. It also looks like they used a full 8 foot front height instead of cutting it down to 7 like in the wichita. I don't get why you would do that anyway unless it is to save on the length of wire used. Personally I would have the front at 8 foot and the back at 7.i live in south Alabama so I have no fear of snow load to worry about either. So. If I go with 2x4 rafters and 1x4 strips for metal i should be fine.

 

[OhZark Biddies]

@huntersdad

another user pointed me to this link, thought I point you to it too:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-chick-inn.73603/

Framing looks a bit more standard: