Coop wall hight???

[Melky]

If making own coop it is important for those building to follow guidelines recommended for poultry as poultry are also ground animals and typically prefer things lower in addition to safety issues. Others on BYC who have owned poultry have thought that higher roosts could have contributed to leg injuries when jumping down in some birds. So best to follow those guidelines as manufacturers follow these guidelines for safety and ability of most breeds of chickens. Silkie owners have commented on BYC for example that the ramp they created did not allow the bird access to the coop and nesting boxes because of ramp height too high. Coop pop door should be 12x12 at least but those who own brahmas actually believe they need more like 14x14. So depends also on breeds you own what size or height you create something. Just thoughts to share. Nesting boxes and roosting areas also are recommended up 24 inches here and are dictated in my laws and ordinances and is best protection from predators no matter if coop is up 24 inches or on ground on patio stones. So must consider that as well in build. Best Wishes!

 

[Acre4Me]

We have a walk-in 6x8 coop with a single slanted roof. One side of roof is 8’, other side is 6’ above the floor. The roosts are ladder style and lowest roost is approx 18” off floor, highest is approx 4.5’ above floor. Plenty of room everywhere in the coop for us to walk around, in part bc we hinged the ladder roosts so we could lift them out of the way.

 

[Melky]

Also consider your own height and ease of maintenance because bending over is back breaking work for maintenance. Adult height wall and door. Most doors at least 6 ft tall so wall height might be larger than this but if you are a tall person for your comfort you may want more height if you are a 6 ft tall person to clear a doorway. Many good opinions here of things to think of with construction.

 

[mowin]

Coop will be on 6x6 PT runners, not because I plan on moving it around, but because I already have some leftover from a landscape job.
The run will be a hoop style using 2 cattle panels. Of course hardware cloth will be used

 

[mowin]

We have a walk-in 6x8 coop with a single slanted roof. One side of roof is 8’, other side is 6’ above the floor. The roosts are ladder style and lowest roost is approx 18” off floor, highest is approx 4.5’ above floor. Plenty of room everywhere in the coop for us to walk around, in part bc we hinged the ladder roosts so we could lift them out of the way.

Humm.... Haven't thought about a slant roof.

 

[WindingRoad]

My coop is 8 feet high but if it were 6 feet I would be able to clean the cobwebs easier! Either way you will need a chicken ladder for them to get off the high roosts. There isn't enough room for them to fly off the roost. My usable coop measures about 7x8x8 (other area is screened off for storage). I have to keep the roosts low or my girls will get hurt trying to fly off.

Get one of those can light bulb changers for cathedral ceilings. Wrap a rag around the end to swipe those cobwebs off.

 

[Acre4Me]

Humm.... Haven't thought about a slant roof.

It works well bc the slant creates a right triangle (6’ across bottom, 2’ high on one side). We covered this with HWC for ventilation. In winter, that is mostly covered up to protect from winter winds, but we have open eaves (covered in HWC) on both the low and high sides, so there is still a lot of ventilation. We also have a low sitting window that is often open, except for winter. It does not provide a draft on the birds.

 

[Cryss]

My coop is 8 feet high but if it were 6 feet I would be able to clean the cobwebs easier! Either way you will need a chicken ladder for them to get off the high roosts. There isn't enough room for them to fly off the roost. My usable coop measures about 7x8x8 (other area is screened off for storage). I have to keep the roosts low or my girls will get hurt trying to fly off.

Your coop size and storage sounds similar to what I am going to try to build. Do you have a thread with photos? I'd love to see for more inspiration.

 

[aart]

It works well bc the slant creates a right triangle (6’ across bottom, 2’ high on one side). We covered this with HWC for ventilation. In winter, that is mostly covered up to protect from winter winds, but we have open eaves (covered in HWC) on both the low and high sides, so there is still a lot of ventilation. We also have a low sitting window that is often open, except for winter. It does not provide a draft on the birds.

Ditto Dat^^^

Hoops are much harder to provide protected ventilation in winter weather...
....plus cattle panels will bow to snow loads unless supported or kept clear.
HC might help stiffen and add enough additional strength/support.

 

[mowin]

It works well bc the slant creates a right triangle (6’ across bottom, 2’ high on one side). We covered this with HWC for ventilation. In winter, that is mostly covered up to protect from winter winds, but we have open eaves (covered in HWC) on both the low and high sides, so there is still a lot of ventilation. We also have a low sitting window that is often open, except for winter. It does not provide a draft on the birds.

I like the idea of covering the angled sides with HC