Cooptender coop door problems help needed

Pics
At the switch there are 2 fuses and I believe one is for the DC and one for the AC - when we contacted cooptender the first time the thing broke they said we should take the fuse from the AC side. Like I said before we put 2 new fuses in and I checked that they are OK.
Taking off the front (metal) part still would not get you to the power supply, that is on the wooden side (which is nailed), next to the switch and the wires are so short that I would have to take everything apart witch I am not comfortable with as long as it seems to work the way we have set it up now.
 
According to the manual both fuses in the switch are for 120 VAC; one is a spare. Two wires carry 120VAC from the switch to the DC power supply where it is converted to 15 volts DC. There's not a DC fuse in the switch.

The manual also says there is a battery fuse (DC).
Battery Fuse
The battery fuse is in-line with the positive battery terminal. Access by removing the top cover or by removing the screws from the faceplate.
 
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Appendix E has a picture with 2 fuses in and it says ac fuse and battery fuse. You can take the ac fuse and put it in the battery slot and use it as spare when you are not using ac. That how I read the manual and that’s how cooptender explained it to us.
 
Appendix E has a picture with 2 fuses in and it says ac fuse and battery fuse. You can take the ac fuse and put it in the battery slot and use it as spare when you are not using ac. That how I read the manual and that’s how cooptender explained it to us.

That doesn't make sense. AC and DC fuses are not rated the same and shouldn't be used interchangeably. And there is no battery slot in that fuse holder; it's just a cavity for holding a spare fuse; it doesn't connect to anything.

Have you checked the fuse that is inline with the battery? It should be on the wire that goes to the positive battery terminal. I'm guessing it's in a tubular type plastic case that you would twist and gently pull apart to get to the fuse.
 
I went again to the website. There are different manuals and we have the one from 2016. looking at the picture our fuse box looks like this but the switch itself looks slightly different. Anyhow the fuses are clearly labeled in the picture and that how cooptender explained it to us. In the german manual they make it clear that you have to put the fuse box in the „right“ way since one is positioned deeper in the fuse box
We emailed cooptender again and will see what the day. And once I am back from work I can go out and make a picture from my actual switch and fuse box.
 

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I went again to the website. There are different manuals and we have the one from 2016. looking at the picture our fuse box looks like this but the switch itself looks slightly different. Anyhow the fuses are clearly labeled in the picture and that how cooptender explained it to us. In the german manual they make it clear that you have to put the fuse box in the „right“ way since one is positioned deeper in the fuse box
We emailed cooptender again and will see what the day. And once I am back from work I can go out and make a picture from my actual switch and fuse box.

OK that's a different picture than what's in the manual I downloaded. I'll go get the other one.

Here's the manual I've been using -
http://cloud.cooptender.com/v/4l6tXj57dTmeQJCxGDIG?b=wjL4zIFInh9FI8QliU68
 
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Now that I am on my Christmas break I want to finally deal with my cooptender mess. We contacted cooptender again and they said it’s possible that the control panel is broken and we could order a new one for 175$. That is not going to happen. So I took the coop apart and will harvest the motor, the drive and the switch controller and see if a good old fashion timer will work. I was hoping someone could help we with the wires. I took some pictures of what I have before I disconnect everything. I also have a timer not pictured. Any help is appreciated.
 
That’s what we have anything else I need?
 

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The second photo and the third photo are the power supply. Can you identify the wires connected to that board? The Red and Black look like DC power is the White/Black pair connected to 120vac? Cut the zip tie loose from the power supply and remove any wires not going to it so we can see it a bit better.

Does the door have switches of some kind for up and down?

Got a photo of the timer?

JT
 
There is a magnetic switch I took a picture from the website as you con only see the wires coming out (pic3). Do i need the power supply module? Because there is a possibility that it is broken (I believe someone earlier suggested that that could be the problem)
 

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