creating a secure chicken tractor

[Faeshka]

I have 4 86" pallets that I am thinking of using as the walls for a chicken tractor. I'm thinking of starting with 6-10 laying hens. I keep debating if I want/need a rooster or not. The pallets themselves are about 40" tall and each has a middle crossbeam that I was thinking of using as the foundation for nest boxes. I have a tractor to pull it, so the weight of it isn't a problem. My biggest concern is making sure I build it so that no predator can get into it. I'm not exactly sure what predators are in my area since I'm pretty new here. I was thinking maybe plywood for the roof, hardware cloth for the sides, except for the nest boxes that'll need secure plywood doors, and possibly hog panels on the bottom so they can still eat things. I'm not sure if the openings are too big, though.

Is what I'm thinking going to be too small? Any ideas or suggestions for fortifying it so it's as impervious as possible?

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC!

 

[3KillerBs]

Oops, accidentally hit post before I even got started.

Here's some general information for you:

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

6 hens

• 24 square feet in the coop.
• 6 feet of roost
• 60 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 6 square feet of ventilation.
• 2 nest boxes, to give the hens a choice

10 hens

• 40 square feet in the coop
• 10 feet of roost
• 100 square feet in the run. 6'x10' or 8'x8'.
• 10 square feet of ventilation.
• 3 nest boxes.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hot-climate-chicken-housing-and-care.77263/

Is there a particular reason you are looking at a tractor rather than a stationary coop and run? A tractor for 10 layers is going to need to be pretty big -- not just the 8x6 of the coop portion alone, but extra space to compensate for not having a run.

One method people use for rotational grazing with layers is to build a coop on a small trailer and use electric poultry netting for the run.

As for predators, one of the key things is to avoid using chicken wire, which is too flimsy to stand up to raccoons, dogs, coyotes, and other strong predators. Most people prefer 1/2" hardware cloth, which is sturdier and which doesn't allow rodents, weasels, and snakes to slip through it.

Another anti-predator measure is to make sure your build has no gaps larger than 1/2".

And another is to put down a wire anti-dig skirt -- which is difficult but not impossible on a tractor. You can see how that works here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-hoop-coop-chicken-tractor.72211/

 

[samanthaoverton]

Predator proofing sucks. I have a really good predator proof coop for my big guys. But have a smaller thrown together coop for my younger chickens. Hubby is building a big coop for everybody this summer. Anywho some animal bastard pulled the chicken wire at the front of my small coop up, (The only exposed wire not covered)and took a juvenile roo last night. This coop has a floor and he pulled the wire secured to the floor frame. Then proceeded to pull the cockeral through a small hole. The wire wasn't covered at the front because I wanted ventilation. Actually grateful it wasn't one of the 9 pullets. The front of the coop is my only weakness. Hubby will be fixing it. Me thinks it was a coon. They have hands to pull with and are very industrious. Coops are like an army. Predators are the enemy. The enemy will find the weakness and exploit the hell out of it.. so think predator. They will dig under, push through and in desperate times pull or push on defences.

 

[Faeshka]

I'm thinking tractor because I don't have secure fencing around my property. Building a chicken tractor is going to be easier than fencing 13 acres properly. Plus there are sections on the pasture that definitely need more targeted TLC in terms of aeration and fertilizing. So if I have a chicken tractor I can move where needed, it'll help rejuvenate the pasture faster. One of my neighbors had chickens and guinea fowl that free range, and I'd like to be able to keep my birds separate from theirs while also allowing mine the benefits of living on pasture. I also have goats and horses, and I have heard that goats & chickens aren't a good mix. So I need to keep them separated. The pasture sections that need help are in the sections of my place that is horse pasture. One of my horses has a history of trying to stomp small animals, so a tractor would help protect the chickens from stompy pony hooves. In an ideal world, I'd not have the chickens on the same pasture as the horses. However while I'm still getting things set up, odds are that the chickens are going to wind up on the same pasture as the horses. I also have some existing crops and I'd like the chickens to be able to forage on the pasture between rows without being able to get to the crops.

If it needs to be large & heavy, that isn't so much of an issue since I have a tractor to move it.

 

[3KillerBs]

This coop has a floor and he pulled the wire secured to the floor frame.

Here are several ways to secure wire so that a raccoon can't pull it loose:

Fender washers:

Fence staples (either hammered firmly or shot from a compressor-driven staple gun):

Trim boards:

I'm thinking tractor because I don't have secure fencing around my property. Building a chicken tractor is going to be easier than fencing 13 acres properly. Plus there are sections on the pasture that definitely need more targeted TLC in terms of aeration and fertilizing. So if I have a chicken tractor I can move where needed, it'll help rejuvenate the pasture faster. One of my neighbors had chickens and guinea fowl that free range, and I'd like to be able to keep my birds separate from theirs while also allowing mine the benefits of living on pasture. I also have goats and horses, and I have heard that goats & chickens aren't a good mix. So I need to keep them separated. The pasture sections that need help are in the sections of my place that is horse pasture. One of my horses has a history of trying to stomp small animals, so a tractor would help protect the chickens from stompy pony hooves. In an ideal world, I'd not have the chickens on the same pasture as the horses. However while I'm still getting things set up, odds are that the chickens are going to wind up on the same pasture as the horses. I also have some existing crops and I'd like the chickens to be able to forage on the pasture between rows without being able to get to the crops.

If it needs to be large & heavy, that isn't so much of an issue since I have a tractor to move it.

Those sound like some solid reasons to use a tractor -- though I'd suggest looking into Premier 1 electric poultry netting as an adjunct. I have the 48" Poultrynet Plus and I love it despite the limitations of my solar charger.

A hoop type tractor might be the best option for you. In addition to the one I linked in re: the anti-dig skirt, here are a few more hoop coops that could inspire you:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/

 

[samanthaoverton]

Yup thats exactly what I thought..a trim board to secure it.lol. I told hubby you are putting a board on the wire.

Here are several ways to secure wire so that a raccoon can't pull it loose:

Fender washers:

Fence staples (either hammered firmly or shot from a compressor-driven staple gun):

Trim boards:

Those sound like some solid reasons to use a tractor -- though I'd suggest looking into Premier 1 electric poultry netting as an adjunct. I have the 48" Poultrynet Plus and I love it despite the limitations of my solar charger.

A hoop type tractor might be the best option for you. In addition to the one I linked in re: the anti-dig skirt, here are a few more hoop coops that could inspire you:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-tractor.69336/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/hoop-coop-brooder-with-roll-up-sides.75720/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/the-biddie-bordello-a-hoop-coop-run-combo.72189/
https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/permanent-hoop-coop-guide.47818/

 

[Faeshka]

If I put something like no climb fence or hog panels on the bottom, would that still allow them enough gaps to eat plants and bugs?

 

[3KillerBs]

If I put something like no climb fence or hog panels on the bottom, would that still allow them enough gaps to eat plants and bugs?

As a general rule, chickens do best when allowed to dig and scratch in the ground. Wire under their feet both frustrates their instincts and, potentially, hurts their feet.

Also, one of the advantages of a tractor is that you don't have to clean poop off things. People underestimate the size of chicken poops -- which can be the size of golf balls.

 

[Faeshka]

So it's basically sounding like chickens just aren't possible. Bummer.