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Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Roach, Feb 27, 2013.

  1. Roach

    Roach In the Brooder

    Feb 27, 2013
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Hey there everyone, just working on my coop design that I'll be building next month.

    It's based off of using two solid core doors as the upper coop panels, one side will open for egg access, and the other will open with wire underneath for summer ventilation.

    I've included measurements so people can see how large everything is going to be, and if it will appropriately fit 6 chickens.


    I've yet to add roosting bars or a droppings try to the coop section.

    I'm in a urban setting, so it needs to be dog secure, and keep the egg song fairly muffled.

    Feel free to point out issues, improvements, good design elements. All is welcome.

    I've read many threads on BYC as well as the fantastic book, A Chicken in Every Yard, so I'm decently versed in chicken raising, but this is my first time!

  2. 1muttsfan

    1muttsfan Crowing

    Mar 26, 2011
    Upper Peninsula Michigan
    Nicely drawn! The only thing I would suggest is to have fewer birds. While some sources cite as little as 2 square feet of coop per bird, they are much better off with 4 square feet of coop and 10 square feet of run per adult standard fowl. Remember that in incliment weather they may be inside and too crowded if you were to have 6 birds. You could probably have up to 5 without issue if you were to change to exterior nest boxes.
  3. OCpeep

    OCpeep Chirping

    Jan 8, 2012
    Orange County, CA
    You'll need vents at the top of the coop. They should be left open year around. Maybe cut out the top of the peak on either side and put hardware cloth over it for security.
  4. Chicken Fruit

    Chicken Fruit Songster

    Feb 25, 2009
    Echo Homestead
    Are they to be in the coop all the time? Instead of making it larger you can solve it by making it a tractor and scooting it about every day or two. It's not going to solve issues like parasites from too little space, but they should be happy and healthy enough. The other alternative is to let them out a few hours before sunset, they'll get some exercise and come back to roost. Muttsfan is right though, its a really tight squeeze, for long term logistics, for 6 hens.
  5. cafarmgirl

    cafarmgirl Crowing

    Something to consider when measuring the floor space in the coop itself: SInce it is a triangle you are loosing a lot of floor space at the apex of the triangle, where the floor meet's the wall, since the birds will not be able to use the space in that tight angle, they are only going to be able to use the space down the center. So you need to adjust your square footage. In reality, I'd maybe put 3 standard chickens in that coop.
  6. ChickensRDinos

    ChickensRDinos Songster

    Aug 19, 2012
    Los Angeles
    Hello! I also live in a very urban area and have six chickens. I started with 4 and originally built a triangle coop similar-ish to the one you have drawn. Just my personal experience and opinion but I did not love it and ended up starting over. The triangle top makes roost space really tight. That 3 foot width seems fine now but when you actually get a few birds in there it gets small fast.

    I rebuilt and made a giant rectangle instead and found that with the same footprint, I have much more coop space up top with the same run space below. There are still things I would change about my coop but here is pic in case that helps at all. I let them out in a fenced yard during the day.


    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  7. conny63malies

    conny63malies Crowing

    Mar 22, 2008
    Annetta Kentucky
    I dont see any roosts. Can you change the run accsess to the interior triangle? This way you can add another sqf

  8. tadpole98

    tadpole98 Songster

    Mar 20, 2012
    Its a very good start! [​IMG] but i would not go with an a-frame since it has lots of wasted space.

    1. where shall the water and feed go?
    2. chickens like to roost.. that should be added in.
    3. alot of your floor space is for not, since the corners are going to be so tight they cant fit in there, only two feet across could be used.
    4. I would make it so the ramp isnt against the wall, but so they can come from behind it instead of having to jump into it. they can result in a broken bird.
    5. that isnt not enough space for 6 chickens. people do say they only need 2 sq ft per, but since they will be stuck in a coop with a small run make it 4 per.
    6. make the run bigger. not counting the inside, i would make 7 sq. ft per bird in the run.
    7. I would add wheels, so you can move it around once they take down that area.

    Are you planning on letting them free range too?

    This is exciting, cant wait to see the end result!
  9. Roach

    Roach In the Brooder

    Feb 27, 2013
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    Tadpole, the run is over 10sq.ft per chicken as is.

    Like I said in the first post, roosts just haven't been drawn in, I know I need them.
    They will have to be contained because I am renting the house, and other people have dogs in the area. I know they'll tear up the ground, and that's fine. The yard as no where to go but up.

    There are vent slits at the bottom as well as in the top, you just can't see them, since they're baffled.

    ChickensRDinos, The reason I went with the triangular design, is that the run here can be stacked on the coop, and then loaded into my truck for moving. I can't build anything remotely permanent in my space, especially in case my landlord ends up saying "NVMUNOCANHASCOOKSLOL"

    Though I might try and have a rectangular coop that sits on a removeable run, with a triangular run off the side. ChickensRDinos, do you have pictures of your old coop, and any more of your new one?

    And also, I don't need to overbuild for what people here call "Chicken Math". 6 is the limit in my city, and I wont be surpassing that.
  10. Hokum Coco

    Hokum Coco Crowing

    Dec 6, 2012
    New Brunswick,Canada
    I might consider bringing the enclosed upper coop area across the whole foot print of the structure and having two large access doors the same size as the one you have depicted in your diagram. I would surround your ramp well perimeter with a six inch board to impede shaving and bedding from falling down into the run. I would hinge the ramp and have it so it served as a door.

    I might even consider using plywood as the floor in the coop and having it so the floor could be taken right out of the structure for easier cleaning. Half of the upper coop I would let some natural light in also have my roost. The other half would be more for nesting and with less light.

    Nice starter coop I would say; Good choice and very versatile; If you decide to keep it is a stationary coop or as a tractor. Good to raise meat birds in as well if you decide to try something different later on. I would go with 1/2 hardware cloth on the outside for added protection.

    This redefining of the coop will also cut down on the amount of hardware cloth you will need (which is quite pricey you will find). It will also create more area for your birds on days when they are not as inclined to go out in the run. The whole run area will also have a roof which will be a bonus.
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2013

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