Day 21--are these goners? Pics

Yeah, not ready to put a hole in the shell. I'll probably use the early stage incubator for the lockdown for my set currently in there and possibly transfer one or two to the current lockdown incubator just to see if there is some issue with the incubator. I can't imagine what would cause all 4 chicks, which have been active and very visibly healthy for the last 2 weeks, to die at transfer. The humidity and heat have been monitored with 3 (!!!) separate meters, remained steady at 99.8 and 69% respectively...

Does this bator have a fan? Exactly how did you calibrate the thermometers? Did you calibrate your hygrometer with the salt test? What humidity did you use through day 18? What is the bator? Home made or what brand? Was this your first incubation?
 
I know that I probably could have run things a little hotter, but I was so worried about temp spikes. I did use the Sensorpush, and the data shows its been remarkably steady...if these guys dont make it, I wonder if I should have spent more time doing a full fumigation of the incubator instead of just the brief washdown and cleaning...
 
Does this bator have a fan? Exactly how did you calibrate the thermometers? Did you calibrate your hygrometer with the salt test? What humidity did you use through day 18? What is the bator? Home made or what brand? Was this your first incubation?

This was my first hatch, so...probably going to be a "learning" experience...:(:(
I used the ice water test to calibrate thermometer 1, and then checked the other two against it--kept them all in place just because I'm neurotic. The hygrometer was calibrated in my neighbors humidor (which is an absurdly expensive and well monitored system). For day 1-18, it was steadily between 42%-46% (it was hard to keep it steady due to fluctuations in our house, dang humid this week!)

For day 1-18 they are in a hova-bator 1588 with a Little Giant auto-turner. For lockdown, I moved them to a Janoel 12.

I just realized they were moved from a forced-air incubator to a still air incubator. Would that cause a problem?

Is there any indication that there is a real problem, or am I being overly anxious?
 
My last batch had three late bloomers. One died mid-pip (very heart-wrenching,) one hatched overnight and drowned in the shallow water my daughter put in there, thinking she was helping, and one hatched out a wonderful, healthy, spoiled little peep, now pushing two weeks old. Don't give up, yet!

Thank you--and so sorry...sometimes the best intentions...
 
I think you are running too high humidity.
I think closer to 35% is better.


Unfortunately I can't tell what is what in your videos.
Can you possibly have someone else hold the camera steady while you candle the egg?
 
This was my first hatch, so...probably going to be a "learning" experience...:(:(
I used the ice water test to calibrate thermometer 1, and then checked the other two against it--kept them all in place just because I'm neurotic. The hygrometer was calibrated in my neighbors humidor (which is an absurdly expensive and well monitored system). For day 1-18, it was steadily between 42%-46% (it was hard to keep it steady due to fluctuations in our house, dang humid this week!)

For day 1-18 they are in a hova-bator 1588 with a Little Giant auto-turner. For lockdown, I moved them to a Janoel 12.

I just realized they were moved from a forced-air incubator to a still air incubator. Would that cause a problem?

Is there any indication that there is a real problem, or am I being overly anxious?

While the ice water test is often used to calibrate a thermometer, IMO, it's not the best way to go. I use a good medical grade thermometer, either digital or mercury bulb. Most medical grade thermometers are guaranteed to be accurate to +/- .2*F. I place the accurate thermometer in a bowl or cup of water at 100*. I then add my other thermometer(s), making sure that none of them touch the sides of the bowl. Allow time for the thermometers to register current water temp, and compare the readings. IMO, while a thermometer may pass the ice test at 32*F, that does not insure accuracy at the 100*F range.

Yes, there is a huge problem if moving your eggs from forced air to still air if you maintain the same temp. Forced air should be 99.5*F. Still air should be 102*F measured at the surface of the eggs. I actually use 100*F in my home made forced air, measured with calibrated thermometers, and have excellent hatch rates.

I run 30 - 40% humidity through day 18. Humidity is a tool to ensure that the aircells grow large enough so the chick does not drown when she pips. I monitor air cell size, and make adjustments in humidity during the last week. Sometimes, I have to run completely dry right up to first pip to ensure that the eggs loose enough moisture. If the egg is too wet, the chick will be too large to be able to successfully turn. Too much moisture in the egg = air cell too small = possible drowning of chick at pip.
 

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