Deerhen Project

[NatJ]

Any ideas on what to feed my adult birds to help them through molt? Currently I give them 16% protein feed pellets & scratch grains along with meal worms. I also occasionally give kitchen scraps. I have oyster shell for them and sometimes I save their shells if I boil a big batch.

Higher protein may help. Maybe cut out the scratch grains, since those tend to be low in protein.

If you want to increase the protein a bit higher yet, you could change the 16% feed for something with a higher protein content. Chick starter is fine for adult chickens too, and if you already have some for the chicks, you could use it for all ages to avoid buying a different kind of feed. All Flock or Flock Raiser would also be fine.

 

[E flowers]

Higher protein may help. Maybe cut out the scratch grains, since those tend to be low in protein.

If you want to increase the protein a bit higher yet, you could change the 16% feed for something with a higher protein content. Chick starter is fine for adult chickens too, and if you already have some for the chicks, you could use it for all ages to avoid buying a different kind of feed. All Flock or Flock Raiser would also be fine.

The chicks decided to swap to the adult feed a couple weeks ago. I had to mix their chick feed with the adult feed to use it up. Cookie and Marshmallow are free ranging during the day so I'm pretty sure they're getting enough protein. Do you think giving them some cat or dog kibble could up the protein without having to buy the more expensive high protein feed?

I wouldn't be giving them much of it. Maybe under a handful per bird.

 

[E flowers]

Or maybe buying some of those dried minnow Flock treats?

 

[NatJ]

The chicks decided to swap to the adult feed a couple weeks ago. I had to mix their chick feed with the adult feed to use it up. Cookie and Marshmallow are free ranging during the day so I'm pretty sure they're getting enough protein.

If the "adult feed" is a layer feed that contains high calcium, the chicks would do better on a lower-calcium feed anyway. Molting hens don't need the extra calcium either, and I already noticed that you do provide oyster shell so they can help themselves when they need it.

As regards free ranging and getting enough protein: it depends on what they find while ranging. They might be feasting on bugs and worms, or they might not find any. So they might be fine.

But overall, your chickens, your choice. The higher calcium isn't going to make the chicks drop dead in the short term, and the protein they do or don't get from free ranging isn't going to be a life-and-death matter for them anyway.

Do you think giving them some cat or dog kibble could up the protein without having to buy the more expensive high protein feed?

I wouldn't be giving them much of it. Maybe under a handful per bird.

Is the high protein feed that much more expensive? Cat or dog kibble is usually more expensive on a per-pound basis than any chicken feed. And do read the label. If the dog kibble is 20% protein and chick starter is 20% protein, and the dog kibble is more expensive, then you do not save money that way. (20% protein is a fairly common number for both dog kibble and chick starter, but check you labels to know what you are actually dealing with.)

Or maybe buying some of those dried minnow Flock treats?

As a protein supplement, it might work. As a money-saving measure, I expect it to be a total failure. It is almost always cheaper to buy a higher protein chicken feed than to buy the low protein feed and high protein treats. Treats tend to be badly overpriced for the amount of nutrition in them.

Here are some exact numbers:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/manna-pro-flock-party-merry-minnows-10-oz-1030177?
Minnow treats at Tractor Supply company, $12.99 for 10 ounces at 55% percent protein
That works out to .34 pounds of actual protein in the bag, or about 1/3 pound, currently priced at $12.99
So to get one pound of protein would take 3 bags, at a total cost of $38.97

For any chicken feed that comes in 50 pound sacks:
2% higher protein means 1 more pound of actual protein in the bag.
Does a bag of 18% protein feed cost $38.97 more than a bag of 16% protein feed? Or a bag of 20% protein feed cost $77.94 more than a bag of 16% protein feed?
(50 pound sacks of feed are common, and make the numbers easy. Other sizes will show similar benefits, when compared with almost anything marketed as a treat.)

 

[E flowers]

If the "adult feed" is a layer feed that contains high calcium, the chicks would do better on a lower-calcium feed anyway. Molting hens don't need the extra calcium either, and I already noticed that you do provide oyster shell so they can help themselves when they need it.

As regards free ranging and getting enough protein: it depends on what they find while ranging. They might be feasting on bugs and worms, or they might not find any. So they might be fine.

But overall, your chickens, your choice. The higher calcium isn't going to make the chicks drop dead in the short term, and the protein they do or don't get from free ranging isn't going to be a life-and-death matter for them anyway.


Is the high protein feed that much more expensive? Cat or dog kibble is usually more expensive on a per-pound basis than any chicken feed. And do read the label. If the dog kibble is 20% protein and chick starter is 20% protein, and the dog kibble is more expensive, then you do not save money that way. (20% protein is a fairly common number for both dog kibble and chick starter, but check you labels to know what you are actually dealing with.)


As a protein supplement, it might work. As a money-saving measure, I expect it to be a total failure. It is almost always cheaper to buy a higher protein chicken feed than to buy the low protein feed and high protein treats. Treats tend to be badly overpriced for the amount of nutrition in them.

Here are some exact numbers:
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/manna-pro-flock-party-merry-minnows-10-oz-1030177?
Minnow treats at Tractor Supply company, $12.99 for 10 ounces at 55% percent protein
That works out to .34 pounds of actual protein in the bag, or about 1/3 pound, currently priced at $12.99
So to get one pound of protein would take 3 bags, at a total cost of $38.97

For any chicken feed that comes in 50 pound sacks:
2% higher protein means 1 more pound of actual protein in the bag.
Does a bag of 18% protein feed cost $38.97 more than a bag of 16% protein feed? Or a bag of 20% protein feed cost $77.94 more than a bag of 16% protein feed?
(50 pound sacks of feed are common, and make the numbers easy. Other sizes will show similar benefits, when compared with almost anything marketed as a treat.)

Just bought a 20% grower feed. I haven't been giving the chicks the oyster shell.

I had to get my goats some feed too so I went ahead and got theirs.

 

[NatJ]

Just bought a 20% grower feed. I haven't been giving the chicks the oyster shell.

I had to get my goats some feed too so I went ahead and got theirs.

That sounds good. The chicks do not need the oyster shell, but having it available will not hurt them either.

When chicks live with older hens that are laying, it generally works well to have a dish of oyster shell that the hens use when they need it and the chicks mostly ignore: much easier for the person than trying to control who eats what. But if the chicks are not living with hens that need oyster shell, there is no need to provide it to the chicks until they are almost grown up.

 

[E flowers]

That sounds good. The chicks do not need the oyster shell, but having it available will not hurt them either.

When chicks live with older hens that are laying, it generally works well to have a dish of oyster shell that the hens use when they need it and the chicks mostly ignore: much easier for the person than trying to control who eats what. But if the chicks are not living with hens that need oyster shell, there is no need to provide it to the chicks until they are almost grown up.

They're still living with Teryaki and Sampson at the moment. I've gotta convince my dad to help me finish the new coop.

This is the only pic I have of it rn. We've done a bit more to it now. We added one frame for one nestbox and the roof along with the cutouts for the access doors.

We need to add tyvek and siding along with the doors, nestboxes, and runs. It's a double coop with a wall to split it through the middle.

 

[E flowers]

My mom and I have been talking about buying a 10x30ft lean-to shed for more coops & pens. Thought about doing a layout like this.

 

[NatJ]

My mom and I have been talking about buying a 10x30ft lean-to shed for more coops & pens. Thought about doing a layout like this.

Sounds good to me!

But I might consider making it 12 feet wide instead of 10. Then you could either have bigger pens, or a wider walkway down the middle. Because of how many materials come in 4 foot widths, the price is often about the same, but of course you won't know for sure unless you check. If the issue is space on the property, or if someone would be delivering the shed as an already-finished structure, there could be good reasons not to go wider.

If the chicken pens are 3x4 feet (guessing from the image), that's only big enough for 3 standard-sized birds each, maybe not even 3 if you have feed/water/nestbox on the floor. Making each pen 4x4 would make it much roomier for 3 birds, or could let you put a 4th bird per pen.

 

[E flowers]

This one chick is really showing promise. I still plan on getting CCL's but I may wait on them till spring.