Definitive Ivermectin Thread and an Egg Withdrawal Chart

[Tamara119]

Thank you that is very good info. I'm not trying to be argumentative, I simply want to get to the bottom of this. I have no loyalty to ivermectin as a wormer, I simply dislike inconsistencies. For the most part I don't doubt these cases of worms despite treatment with Ivermectin (although the second thread potentially could illustrate a case of re-infection, since the ivermectin treatment was 4 months earlier). The main issue as I see it is that there are valid case studies proving the effectiveness of ivermectin on worms in poultry at the same time as these people—and yourself—are reporting cases of resistance.

I repeat, I don't care either way about wormers; I have levamisole, piperazine and flubenvet (my preference) at the ready. I just want to understand the discrepancy. Is the resistance just local or regional? How can poultry case studies with controls show upwards of 95% effectiveness while some people have chickens in their yards dying from worm infestations after ivermectin treatments? Do all medications have such wildly varying results? Are sunspots involved?

 

[ellend]

I have not used the injectable orally; I've used the topical for mites. After an entire winter of treatment to eradicate mites, I've still found an adult roundworm here and there in the bedding.

 

[Isaiah53]

Well, I dug a bit further, and I've figured out that I WAY overdosed them. Here are my new calculations based on the Florida guidelines http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vm022 :

1 mL of 1% solution has 10 mg of ivermectin (labeled)

Florida guidelines suggest 200 mcg / kg (0.2 mg / kg), repeated in 10 to 14 days

20 drops = 1 mL = 10 mg (I still need to measure the drops, but I can't find my littlest graduated cylinder)
5 drops = .25 mL = 2.5 mg
1 drop = .05 mL = .5 mg

If my young birds are 2 kg (some maybe bigger), then one drop is all they needed. Oops.

The Florida dosage is the most official dose I can find, so I'll go with that from now on. Also, based on the chart I posted, feeding at 0.1 mg / kg for 21 days produced no measurable residue in the eggs, and at 0.4 mg / kg for 21 days had no measurable residue after 6 days. So I figure that a single dose of 0.5 mg (1 drop) is insignificant in terms of egg residue. Now I feel fine about treating my layers, and I won't toss any eggs!

Just came across your post. May I ask whether your doses above were given orally, injected or added to food or water? I am not sure which method works best and would appreciate your insight.. Many thanks!

 

[chickenMamee]

I stopped using ivermectin for worming some years ago, lost its effectiveness. It will still treat mites though:

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1439-0450.1989.tb00635.x/abstract

I know that this is a very old thread but, what do you use for worming? Thanks

 

[dawg53]

I know that this is a very old thread but, what do you use for worming? Thanks

Valbazen, safeguard liquid goat wormer, pyrantel pamoate, wazine.

 

[RottyChicDog]

If you rotate workers using 3 they will not build a resistance.
ie: Wormer A- Spring
Wormer B- Fall
Wormer C- next spring
Back to Wormer A-next Fall....etc
You should work twice a year and rotate.

I stopped using ivermectin for worming some years ago, lost its effectiveness. It will still treat mites though:

http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/j.1439-0450.1989.tb00635.x/abstract

 

[ChickenMan1111]

Well, I dug a bit further, and I've figured out that I WAY overdosed them. Here are my new calculations based on the Florida guidelines http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/vm022 :

1 mL of 1% solution has 10 mg of ivermectin (labeled)

Florida guidelines suggest 200 mcg / kg (0.2 mg / kg), repeated in 10 to 14 days

20 drops = 1 mL = 10 mg (I still need to measure the drops, but I can't find my littlest graduated cylinder)
5 drops = .25 mL = 2.5 mg
1 drop = .05 mL = .5 mg

If my young birds are 2 kg (some maybe bigger), then one drop is all they needed. Oops.

The Florida dosage is the most official dose I can find, so I'll go with that from now on. Also, based on the chart I posted, feeding at 0.1 mg / kg for 21 days produced no measurable residue in the eggs, and at 0.4 mg / kg for 21 days had no measurable residue after 6 days. So I figure that a single dose of 0.5 mg (1 drop) is insignificant in terms of egg residue. Now I feel fine about treating my layers, and I won't toss any eggs!

 

[jrose84]

Hi all, I know there are a thousand threads on here about ivermectin, but each thread is full of differing opinions and differing suggestions. Some people say 5 to 7 drops for bantams, and 1/4 cc for standards (even the Chicken Chick says this) but 5 drops IS 1/4 cc! What I think we're in need of is a thread of actual treatments. I suggest we post the form of ivermectin we've used, the dosage and whether it was injected, given orally, or used topically, and what ailment was being treated. In other words, don't just repeat the dosages that are posted elsewhere, post only your actual treatment. Also, can you post the efficacy that you noticed if applicable?

Also, I have found this awesome chart for both approved and unapproved drug residues in eggs. On page 20 I think you'll be surprised at the results for Ivermectin given in the feed for 21 days!
http://www.farad.org/publications/miscellaneous/LayingHensEggResidues.pdf

I've just used Ivermectin for Scaly Leg Mites:
1% injectable
5 drops on a piece of bread fed to each 4 month old standard
(4 birds managed to steal someone else's piece, and therefore got a double dose - 10 drops. No side effects have been observed 24 hours later.)
It's only been a day, so I don't have any results to share, but also I plan on spraying their legs with frontline today so I won't have results for Ivermectin alone.

I have personally used ivermectin pour on for cattle on our rooster. He came to us with mites and lice and I followed the directions i found on this treatment from a YouTube video. I put just two drops on him, on the nape of the neck like you would a cat. Followed by another 2 drops 10 days later. That’s it. And he’s a huge australorp, I pondered if he’s a jersey giant even.

I haven’t used it on any of the hens as they’ve been beautifully healthy their first year of life, but I do wonder if i ever need to what the egg withdrawal period would be.

 

[jrose84]

I know that this is a very old thread but, what do you use for worming? Thanks

I personally use the organic apple cider vinegar with mother in their water ALL the time, 1tbsp/gallon. It knocked worms out of the chicks and I don’t see a reason to stop it. Then as a booster I feed Garlic powder in feed 1/4cup to a 40lb bag, garlic in their morning eggs, and pumpkin seeds in the fall.

 

[dawg53]

I personally use the organic apple cider vinegar with mother in their water ALL the time, 1tbsp/gallon. It knocked worms out of the chicks and I don’t see a reason to stop it. Then as a booster I feed Garlic powder in feed 1/4cup to a 40lb bag, garlic in their morning eggs, and pumpkin seeds in the fall.

How old were your chicks?