Diary & Notes ~ Air Cell Detatched SHIPPED Chicken Eggs for incubation and hatching

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In Sallys article in her sig, it just says to up the humidity so that the air cells don't grow too quickly, so I upped it to 50 because I had loose cells and saddle shaped ones and it worked at keeping them in the normal growth rate. Big buttttt, it also made them awful sticky with lots of gel type gook and I had to help them out at the end because as they zipped and popped the top, the gook dried onto the chicks body and they got stuck. It's a win some, lose some with shipped eggs because of the rough handling by the post.
another great reason to simply weigh if they are very expensive or extremely important eggs, what I have found with my own bator is that I add too many different eggs both shipped as well as my own so I cant mess with humidity for each sets of eggs, so I have to go with an average of what my air cell loss looks like. and use the humiditiy as a tool that way, if they grow to fast I need to add more too slow take it away
 
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Read the humidity section in Sally's article. Humidity is not a set number and it depends on many factors. To figure out the correct humidity, you need to either carefully compare air cell development, or weigh the eggs. Usually you need to increase the humidity for shipped eggs because the air cell are already fairly developed when you receive them. Not only have they been jarred around, but the eggs are also older because they were in the US postal service for 2-3 days.

One more thing about the mites. I read that sevin only kills the mites that are alive. What about the eggs. In a few days will they get infested again??

Yes, you need to dust 2 or 3 times to ensure that you get all of the live lice, and then the eggs that hatch. I'll dust mine tonight, next week Monday, and next week Thursday.
 
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Read the humidity section in Sally's article. Humidity is not a set number and it depends on many factors. To figure out the correct humidity, you need to either carefully compare air cell development, or weigh the eggs. Usually you need to increase the humidity for shipped eggs because the air cell are already fairly developed when you receive them. Not only have they been jarred around, but the eggs are also older because they were in the US postal service for 2-3 days.


Yes, you need to dust 2 or 3 times to ensure that you get all of the live lice, and then the eggs that hatch. I'll dust mine tonight, next week Monday, and next week Thursday.

th.gif
I will get a dust mask this time. And some latex gloves. LOL
 
One more thing about the mites. I read that sevin only kills the mites that are alive. What about the eggs. In a few days will they get infested again??
I don't know how to answer since I never had them because the preventative program every 3 months has worked for me!
 
this is my BUG routine......

Once every 2 weeks I let my girls out in the morning and then empty out the coop, bleach/clean feed dishes and waterers, remove all bedding scrape roost bars with a paint scraper (read if you cover/staple them with indoor outdoor carpet its much healthier and easier to clean as it brushes clean and sprays well, but I never did it.... YET!) then I will throw a tad of powder around and in the nest boxes, just a sprinkle here and there and then add fresh shavings and toss a tad more dust. I actually DO NOT dust a lot at this time! just a tad!

Then around the 3-4 month time frame I will where a mask and use a broom and attempt to get all that loose dander floating and sometimes if I am energetic drag the shop vac down and vac out the dust up in the rafters, and then spray liquid seven in the coop and let it air out to dry all day and put everything back and give the base a good dusting to boot, then at night when the hens line up to go in I grab them one by one and dust them at the entrance INSIDE THE COOP (no sense wasting that stuff) and then send them up to roost for the nite, I LEAVE the windows open for a while though.
perhaps its overkill IDK? but I never had to deal with them yet! pssss the reason I ditched the DE is because I have heard so many have the mites and lice USING THE DE and ended up using the sevin/pererthmcin or whatever its called lol ... anyways to get rid of them, I don't want to mess with them so I will use what I KNOW works the first time, just saying!
 
this is my BUG routine......

Once every 2 weeks I let my girls out in the morning and then empty out the coop, bleach/clean feed dishes and waterers, remove all bedding scrape roost bars with a paint scraper (read if you cover/staple them with indoor outdoor carpet its much healthier and easier to clean as it brushes clean and sprays well, but I never did it.... YET!) then I will throw a tad of powder around and in the nest boxes, just a sprinkle here and there and then add fresh shavings and toss a tad more dust. I actually DO NOT dust a lot at this time! just a tad!

Then around the 3-4 month time frame I will where a mask and use a broom and attempt to get all that loose dander floating and sometimes if I am energetic drag the shop vac down and vac out the dust up in the rafters, and then spray liquid seven in the coop and let it air out to dry all day and put everything back and give the base a good dusting to boot, then at night when the hens line up to go in I grab them one by one and dust them at the entrance INSIDE THE COOP (no sense wasting that stuff) and then send them up to roost for the nite, I LEAVE the windows open for a while though.
perhaps its overkill IDK? but I never had to deal with them yet! pssss the reason I ditched the DE is because I have heard so many have the mites and lice USING THE DE and ended up using the sevin/pererthmcin or whatever its called lol ... anyways to get rid of them, I don't want to mess with them so I will use what I KNOW works the first time, just saying!

Right, I agree.
 
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