Diary & Notes ~ Air Cell Detatched SHIPPED Chicken Eggs for incubation and hatching

[Sally Sunshine]

Watch you humidity don't go over 45 the first 18 day and last 3 day need 55-60 humidity, good luck

Margitas what are your thoughts on turning? Set them in bator in the carton upright and let them alone NO turning for 48 hours or 4 days? and when do u think it will be safe to candle at 7 or 10 days? Thanks so much!!

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Thank you so much for posting this thread, it's totally what I'm looking for. Fingers crossed!

alisar I am going by my first post plan as far as humidity.... it sorta explains why I am doing them this way... you can read through the thread but its a loooooonggg thread!!! lol



HUMIDITY: We have a room dehumidifier set to keep humidity at 65%. also to help keep the room warm. I split approx. one cup of warm water into the two thin holding areas on the bottom at start up and will only add as they get low but not run out.

HUMIDITY NOTES: https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/113681/humidity-in-bator-excellent-info-here-everyone-should-read-this after reading for this thread for 2 hours I have decided to Run humitity lower in my styro incubator, 42/48% WEIGH at CANDLING check AIR Sacks.The last three days not over 60% and average about 58%. The Humidity is ranging from 42/48% on the exterior gage and on a Zoo MED Analog Dual thermometer & Humidity Gage for reptiles (I velcro'd it on a small plastic cup so it will be level with the eggs, aside of the included interior thermometer).

ALTITUDE of my location: about 171 m or 561 ft above sea level. (I have read higher altitude the more humidity needed, but I am not real high, plus less humidity in a "styrofoam" bator.)

(NOTES: Humidity naturally will fluctuate in your incubator and it fluctuates widely in nature. If it is slightly lower or higher some days then don't worry about it. This fluctuation will seem natural to your eggs and they will do fine. Just watch for trends and if your air is consistently too dry or to moist then take steps to correct the situation. ALSO ...Bator plugged into surge protector. Several POSTERS will be posted not only at the incubator, but on lower level entryways in re: to keep the doors closed as much as possible and NEVER touch the incubator, and never unplug it! We also have a generator as well as vehicle converter if necessary because we live in the mountains and always are loosing our electric! got it!)

Simple waterer/suctioner out of aquarium tubing placed through side and into water wells with a CVS Kids cc syringe to add/suck without disturbing the bator or eggs. 2 hoses into two compartments. check!

 

[Margitas]

I've read thT humidity should be 40-50 for day 1-18 and for the last days up to hatch a good steady 70%

Only problem if you live 70% humidity the hatch time chicks grow so big and not able to move in the eggs so cant break the egg shel and die in the eggs.
I have GQF incubator and hatcher and instruction say 45-55 first 18 day and 55-65 for hatching, i fallow that and i get 60-65 hatch rate , until i find out if i keep 40-45 firt 18 day and 55-60 last tree day i have 95 or 100% hatch. This is my experiance and i like to share.
I also hatch 2 times per week , so if you want good hatch fallow what i said and you will be happy with the hatch rate.

 

[Margitas]

Margitas what are your thoughts on turning? Set them in bator in the carton upright and let them alone NO turning for 48 hours or 4 days? and when do u think it will be safe to candle at 7 or 10 days? Thanks so much!!

If you eggs set 24 hour after shipping bring in the room temp where you incubator and wait 3 hour , than you can put them in the egg turner.

 

[Margitas]

If you eggs set 24 hour after shipping bring in the room temp where you incubator and wait 3 hour , than you can put them in the egg turner.Forget to tell you , wait 5-7 day than you can candle not to much you can hurt the embrio.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I still cant believe I didnt research this issue, so glad I found ya all!!

 

[Marty1876]

I let my eggs rest for one full day, small ends down, before setting into the bator. I actually start them in the cardboard egg cartons, top cut off, and don't turn them for the first 24 hours. After that, I hand turn 3x a day with good success.

If you get a water weasil (avil. online) you can insert a thermometer into the center, and keep it in your bator. You can always check it too see what the internal temps of eggs are.

 

[Sally Sunshine]

I let my eggs rest for one full day, small ends down, before setting into the bator. I actually start them in the cardboard egg cartons, top cut off, and don't turn them for the first 24 hours. After that, I hand turn 3x a day with good success.

If you get a water weasil (avil. online) you can insert a thermometer into the center, and keep it in your bator. You can always check it too see what the internal temps of eggs are

Loveeeee your Avatar! I assume being new on here I should have placed a chicken or something as mine like everyone else! In the spring I am going to try finding a few call ducks. love them!

so... u rest 24 hrs then bator in carton 24 and no turning... then u take out of carton and lay on sides? when to candle again? thanks sooo much!

 

[klf73]

ok, read most posts....this is my experience over the past 5 years and over a thousand(maybe two) invested in eggs. There is no reason whatsoever to let eggs sit when you get them UNLESS they are cold (which will cause condensation on the eggs), even then I only let them sit a few hours. To let them settle- I set them in a carton, air cell up, in the bator and don't turn for the first 3 days. Waiting and letting them sit on a counter just makes them another day older in my opinion, which just reduces hatchability.

as far as the dislodged air cells, I have set dozens of these and have NEVER had ANY hatch. I have had saddle cells(air cell that travels down side of egg but still stuck at one end) hatch with minimal problems. An air cell that travels all the way to the small end of the egg is dislodged and will not hatch IMO, it may start to develop but will die by day 14 (again, my experience).

I candle all eggs when I get them and assess how large the air cell is, larger the cell...the older the egg(humidity can also factor in here). The older eggs dislodge easier as well with the extra room and impact.
I try not to buy eggs from down south unless I know the breeder. If eggs are only collected once a day there is more chance that the ambient temp will cause the egg to start developing and then it will die during shipping. I have had this happen quite a few times, and sometimes some very expensive eggs. These eggs have a distinct look to me, although hard to put in print. I mark these eggs just to see and none of those develop either.

I take a scientific approach to many things in my life and this is no different. For the first couple of years I kept records of everything to try to improve my hatches. I have also learned that adding an frozen ice pack to the eggs isn't always a good idea either (temps get too low and reduce hatchability). I haven't tried a refrigerator pack yet though.

my final thoughts? If I REALLY want a certain breed/variety then I will try to find a breeder to ship me chicks and will then quarantine the chicks when they get here. If that is not possible then I will try eggs. I bought 9 eggs a couple of months ago for $120 for down south, couple of the eggs looked like they had started developing before shipping and only a couple of the eggs even started developing. One chick hatched and had problems and subsequently died. I contacted the breeder and was surprised by the rude answer I got. I have found many people are in this for $$, I don't care what they spout off saying preservation, etc... for the same price I got 3 pullets shipped to my house, just find the right people

don't get me wrong, I LOVE hatching...but I will only hatch my own and eggs I will trade for

if you are looking for a certain breed, find a breeder, don't buy from a broker (hatchery).....just my 2 cents

 

[Sally Sunshine]

Found this thought I would share! I am using it!

Penn State ~Printable Record Template Incubation~ EmbryologyRecordII.pdf — PDF document, 31 kB (32667 bytes)

PDF printable form Advanced Level (II) Record

http://extension.psu.edu/4-h/projec...n-record-sheets/advanced-level-ii-record/view