while on FF my eggs are huge, I can easily see how feed effects them
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while on FF my eggs are huge, I can easily see how feed effects them
whats on the planner today?
Quote: fermented feed sorry!
I forgot to quote it, this is for mommabee.
Yes, I agree with Sumi.
They don't need food or water for 3 days after hatch, so let him rest for a day. When I rescued Goosey from a similar situation, I didn't think that she would make it. She simply lied there with her legs curled up for at least 8 hours. She is now a very healthy and active gosling.
Here's want she looked like after I cleaned her up a bit.
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Still no more pipsa few more hours from now will begin day 23..... got antsy and picked two eggs to open and followed the directions very carefully.... one had a preexisting crack that I tried to fix .... it was bad... all liquid inside... dont know how I missed that at candling... must not be very good at it.... the other has a live chick moving under the membrane, and I could hear it peeping once I got some shell off but there are still blood vessels so I left all membranes intact and covered with a moist paper towel... still have 12 eggs with nothing going on and there are 4 from my own flock!!! how can I get more shipped eggs to hatch than fresh eggs???? Why would they be taking so long to hatch my bator is a brinsea advanced and temp is always stable at 99.5-99.6.. not touching it again today.... still have a silkie chick in there to help motivate the others... I wish there was a way to tell if I still had live chicks OTHER than removing shell![]()
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So far here is what I set and what has hatched: 7 chicks out of 26 eggs... 6 alive with help and one dead without help
So it seems ALL of my developing chicks 'so far' have been TOO LARGE to zip!!!!! does this mean my humidity was to high or to low during incubation????
AND WHY are they taking so LONG! I though with correct temps they should hatch at 21 days?!?
Hold them against your ear and tap them. Listen for a response from the chick. I check my overdue eggs like that and by candling. If I don't see anything when I candle and tap I leave it another day.Still no more pipsa few more hours from now will begin day 23..... got antsy and picked two eggs to open and followed the directions very carefully.... one had a preexisting crack that I tried to fix .... it was bad... all liquid inside... dont know how I missed that at candling... must not be very good at it.... the other has a live chick moving under the membrane, and I could hear it peeping once I got some shell off but there are still blood vessels so I left all membranes intact and covered with a moist paper towel... still have 12 eggs with nothing going on and there are 4 from my own flock!!! how can I get more shipped eggs to hatch than fresh eggs???? Why would they be taking so long to hatch my bator is a brinsea advanced and temp is always stable at 99.5-99.6.. not touching it again today.... still have a silkie chick in there to help motivate the others... I wish there was a way to tell if I still had live chicks OTHER than removing shell![]()
![]()
So far here is what I set and what has hatched: 7 chicks out of 26 eggs... 6 alive with help and one dead without help
So it seems ALL of my developing chicks 'so far' have been TOO LARGE to zip!!!!! does this mean my humidity was to high or to low during incubation????
AND WHY are they taking so LONG! I though with correct temps they should hatch at 21 days?!?
Cute stuffI forgot to quote it, this is for mommabee.
I agree with Sumi.
They don't need food or water for 3 days after hatch, so let him rest for a day. When I rescued Goosey from a similar situation, I didn't think that she would make it. She simply lied there with her legs curled up for at least 8 hours. She is now a very healthy and active gosling.
Here's want she looked like after I cleaned her up a bit.
![]()