Diatomaceous Earth for Worming

[supercoops]

I've heard diatomaceous earth is a good treatment for parasitic worms. You spread it on the ground and mix in a little bit with the food. I know it kills unwanted earthworms in nursery containers, so it seems it could do the job. What's your experience (good or bad)?

 

[Chick Charm]

It can (& is used in commercial chicken farms) be used as a maintenance preventative. Food grade of course. If your chickens need to be wormed and already have worms you will likely need a wormer.

You can dust with it as we'll.

Wish ya the best.

 

[supercoops]

It can (& is used in commercial chicken farms) be used as a maintenance preventative. Food grade of course. If your chickens need to be wormed and already have worms you will likely need a wormer.

You can dust with it as we'll.

Wish ya the best.

Thanks CC,

A guy in Winston-Salem told me about it. He has about 200 chickens, it's a real pretty collection.

I run a tree nursery operation and I use diatomaceous earth to control earthworms and slugs. It works really well. Earthworms can cause a lot of root damage.

 

[supercoops]

He also said it would do the worm job all by itself. I'm not finding a de-wormer that treats for everything. Any recommendations?

 

[Chick Charm]

Valbazen.

 

[Eggcessive]

SafeGuard Liquid Goat Wormer or Equine Paste does a very good job too, and the only worm it doesn't get is tapeworm, which is not too common, and fairly easily seen as small segments that look like rice. It may be found easier than Valbazen, and some people will rotate those two. Be sure to dose your chicken once and repeat in 10 days to kill the worm eggs. Dosage of either is 1/4 ml for bantams, 1/2 ml for regular large fowl, and 3/4-1 ml for very large fowl.

For treating gapeworm or capillaria (hairworm) you would want to use SafeGuard at twice the normal dose for 5 days in a row. Those worms are also unusual.

 

[vehve]

The method by which DE works makes it ineffective internally. The idea with it is, that it's structure draws fluids out of whatever parasites it is being used against. In a wet environment, like inside a chicken, it wont work. It's used in feed mainly for keeping moisture problems at bay. It also puts out quite a bit of dust, which can be bad for the airways. Some people swear by it, others avoid it. I recommend doing some research on it and making up your mind by yourself.

 

[dawg53]

Valbazen.

x2

 

[chickisoup]

Quote: X3

 

[Mets17]

SafeGuard Liquid Goat Wormer or Equine Paste does a very good job too, and the only worm it doesn't get is tapeworm, which is not too common, and fairly easily seen as small segments that look like rice. It may be found easier than Valbazen, and some people will rotate those two. Be sure to dose your chicken once and repeat in 10 days to kill the worm eggs. Dosage of either is 1/4 ml for bantams, 1/2 ml for regular large fowl, and 3/4-1 ml for very large fowl.

For treating gapeworm or capillaria (hairworm) you would want to use SafeGuard at twice the normal dose for 5 days in a row. Those worms are also unusual.

So I know this post and thread was from many years ago, but I did have a question...we have a chicken who is exhibiting many of the symptoms of worms that I've read on here, but I haven't seen physical evidence as of yet...I can't get Valbazen so I thought I'd try this. I don't know if you would know, but how soon after the first dose should we see signs of improvement? Is it pretty quick or does it take a few days to work through their system?