DIY Duck Feed vs DIY Chicken Feed

[Sally PB]

Perhaps the best I can do is supplement.

Go at it with this mindset. "Bending the curve," as U_Stormcrow said.

For instance, in July and August, I can collect hundreds of Japanese Beetles every day, and my chickens love them. I notice that they eat less of their feed when they get "bug snack." I'd guess it's probably 15-20% less, but I can tell.

I can grow/gather other things on my property to feed them during about 8-9 months of the year. Because I don't know the nutritional make up of the weeds/kitchen scraps/bugs I feed them, I don't every intend for it to be all of their feed.

I do not free range my birds because of predators.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I would've expected better feed savings, but that is helpful to know what to expect. Plus your setup would most likely be more optimal than mine. Are you able to save appreciable amounts on feed using other methods in addition to free ranging?

What other methods are there? Contrary to the lurid claims of some, fermentation won't save you 50% on your feed bill, Nor will sprouting. While its true that fermentation (and sprouting) make certain nutrients more bioavialable (and others less), which nutrients varies based on ingredients fermented and fermenting methods (which bacteria or yeast, what temps). Whether the more bioavailable nutrients are ultimately beneficial depends in large part on their relative abundance or scarcity before fermenting - if the feed is already high in Vit B, adding a yeast which makes B more available doesn't fix anything - they had enough already, and will simply excrete the excess....

Most of the savings from fermenting is mechanical - the same 10% savings associated with using pelleted feed (or as I do, feeding wet mash). It clumps the feed together, making it easier for chickens to find bits they missed and gobble them up.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

and to continue thoughts above, I have hopes of reaching 45% savings in late spring and again early fall, once I've fully developed my pasture - its still a work in progress. Then I can increase its size, since my birds free range beyond the 2+ acres of pasture into my surrounding woods, and net further savings.

and the "heritage" birds and NOT modern production hybrid layers - and never will be. But they have been raised for generations with a focus on having more chicks for sale and mostly preserving appearance, with the benefits of modern feeding. They've lost some of their "scrappiness", and often some of their eventual size,but do produce eggs better than they used to. A LOT of that difference is feed quality, but not all of it.

 

[NatJ]

I looked up bantams and read they need a pound of feed a month? Sounds shockingly low... But I am not sure they lay enough eggs, I'd have to get at least double the number of chickens I was thinking of.

If you want really good layers, I do NOT recommend bantams.
But if you want chickens that lay less eggs, then they might be a good choice.

Less eggs might mean they need less food each day. Smaller body size also means they need less food each day. But a small chicken can typically catch just as many bugs as a big chicken, so the bugs come closer to being enough food for that day. (This would go for all foods. I just used bugs as one example.)

A bantam does not eat as much as a large chicken, but I do not know how much less. I think one pound a month is probably too low, although bantams come in a range of sizes so it's hard to be sure. Some Serama bantams weigh less than a pound, while some Cornish bantams weigh more than three times that.

 

[Aunt Angus]

I love your reply! Thank you for some ideas that I can use for calculations.
Will chickens go searching for food if they have feed already available? And also, how do I take into account free ranging?

I haven't read the whole thread, so this might be a repeated suggestion, but you might look at grazing boxes. I have these for my chickens, ducks and geese, and it's cut down A LOT on feed costs. Once the weather turns, I'm adding a bed (maybe 2) in my garden for veggies and forage for my birds: kale, squash, peas, tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers.

Edit: This is in addition to commercial feed, of course, which I still offer free choice. It should cut my feed bill in half once my garden fills in.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I haven't read the whole thread, so this might be a repeated suggestion, but you might look at grazing boxes. I have these for my chickens, ducks and geese, and it's cut down A LOT on feed costs. Once the weather turns, I'm adding a bed (maybe 2) in my garden for veggies and forage for my birds: kale, squash, peas, tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers.

Edit: This is in addition to commercial feed, of course, which I still offer free choice. It should cut my feed bill in half once my garden fills in.

I have no experience with grazing boxes, but if you look at my Sig, you will see why I haven't tried it. I would need to scale up my already unsuccessful garden.

 

[happybird100]

I haven't read the whole thread, so this might be a repeated suggestion, but you might look at grazing boxes. I have these for my chickens, ducks and geese, and it's cut down A LOT on feed costs. Once the weather turns, I'm adding a bed (maybe 2) in my garden for veggies and forage for my birds: kale, squash, peas, tomatoes, lettuce, and sunflowers.

Edit: This is in addition to commercial feed, of course, which I still offer free choice. It should cut my feed bill in half once my garden fills in.

I don't have materials for grazing boxes. I have heard of them though I discounted the idea as I thought it wouldn't add a lot of food unless I made a bunch of them. However I will look into it a bit more now.

 

[happybird100]

If you want really good layers, I do NOT recommend bantams.
But if you want chickens that lay less eggs, then they might be a good choice.

Less eggs might mean they need less food each day. Smaller body size also means they need less food each day. But a small chicken can typically catch just as many bugs as a big chicken, so the bugs come closer to being enough food for that day. (This would go for all foods. I just used bugs as one example.)

A bantam does not eat as much as a large chicken, but I do not know how much less. I think one pound a month is probably too low, although bantams come in a range of sizes so it's hard to be sure. Some Serama bantams weigh less than a pound, while some Cornish bantams weigh more than three times that.

The main reason I want chickens are for eggs. Like everyone else these days, with the ridiculous egg prices. Also, they look quite a bit smaller, and there are hawks around, Red shouldered I believe. As far as I know they don't get big chickens, but I don't know about little ones. Still, I will look into it a bit further.

 

[happybird100]

and to continue thoughts above, I have hopes of reaching 45% savings in late spring and again early fall, once I've fully developed my pasture - its still a work in progress. Then I can increase its size, since my birds free range beyond the 2+ acres of pasture into my surrounding woods, and net further savings.

and the "heritage" birds and NOT modern production hybrid layers - and never will be. But they have been raised for generations with a focus on having more chicks for sale and mostly preserving appearance, with the benefits of modern feeding. They've lost some of their "scrappiness", and often some of their eventual size,but do produce eggs better than they used to. A LOT of that difference is feed quality, but not all of it.

It's sad what gets lost due to what modern people think is better. Like modern farming, only the vegetables with the best shelf life make it to the store. No regard to nutrition and flavor. Good to know about fermentation; I have seen plenty of stuff on how much you can save that way.

 

[NatJ]

The main reason I want chickens are for eggs. Like everyone else these days, with the ridiculous egg prices. Also, they look quite a bit smaller, and there are hawks around, Red shouldered I believe. As far as I know they don't get big chickens, but I don't know about little ones. Still, I will look into it a bit further.

Yes, hawks could be more of a problem for small chickens than for big chickens.