DIY Plucker Question

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I'm not sure, but I'm noting that. I'm trying to make a barrel size plucker without actually buying the whizbang plans. I have the barrel and motor. So the only thing I'm not sure of how to find is the feather plate. Other than that....it doesn't seem worth the 15 bucks for the plans. Seems fairly straight forward!
 
If it's a plastic barrel, I used a jigsaw with a wood blade. Make sure you mark both cut lines and the 2 rows of fingers before you cut anything. It makes it much easier.
 
Good idea! I wasn't sure if I should go with a metal blade or a wood blade. I was going to use a chalk line to make the line for the cut. I'm guessing slow and steady wins the race on this one.

Thinking about picking up the feather plate off ebay. 75.00 bucks, and I don't have to mess around with it. Seems worth it, since I only have to buy the fingers, and plate. Should be able to get the whole thing done for under 200 bucks.
 
I bought a brand new feather plate, shaft with the flange already welded to the shaft and 125 rubber fingers off ebay for $195. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300554729077
I figured that's a steal of a deal considering all the finger kits I have ever seen are around $100 alone. Plus the aluminum feather plate is ready to install the fingers so that saves a lot time and headache. I did have a do a little work to the shaft, it didn't have a slot cut in it for a key for the pulley to set on, but that was no big deal.
The 2.5" pulley you can get at a Tractor Supply or probably any other similar place. The big pulley I had to order straight from the Whiz bang guy. To cut the barrel I used a reciprocating saw.
 
I saw fingers on ebay for $56 + 12 S&H for 125 of them ebay plucker finger linkey

You can get large pullys from an HVAC company - especially out here in AZ where swamp coolers are big

The plate can be made from aluminum or Thick plastic - If you go on the Whizbang site he explains that the originals are made of plastic. Holes as stated are 3/4" and counterbored in the thicker plastic or counter sunk in the aluminum to make pulling them through easier.

I've not seen this said but if you put a bit of oil (mineral I think would work best / not rot / is food safe) it will make pulling the fingers through IMMENSE-LY easier. I watched several assembly videos and it took most folks 20 - 30 seconds with a large pair of channel locks. A small drop of mineral oil would shorten that to a few seconds.

Don't cut the entire bottom of the barrel out. Just cut a small/medium slot in the bottom or edge to which you can mount a trough & bucket. Drill a bunch of holes in the bucket fo rthe water to drain through. It will be much easier to empty a bucket than rake up a 360 degree spray of feathers.

Flip two or three fingers upside down so they are pointing down and just missing the bottom of the barrel. This will help evacuate/clean the bottom out as it rotates.

You do not need a solid shaft, A shaft from a swamp cooler is hollow and they sell sleeved (not bearings, bronze bushings) pillow blocks that slip right on for Cheep. They will not last as long as the expensive bearings but they have built in oil cups and should be fine for occasional home use. If you are planning on processing 1000's of birds - go with the bearings.

Hope it helps
 

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