Do I really need to quarantine?

[ehoneybee]

In your situation, I'd do a "see, no touch" intro through a fence. With one hen, I don't think a full 30 day quarantine is worth it. It is good for people who have established flocks to practice, but in your case, I would let it go.

We are picking up and introducing the new flock at sundown to cause minimum stress. Would it be weird to put the new flock in the coop with our hen while she's on her perch and resting?

 

[Redhead Rae]

We are picking up and introducing the new flock at sundown to cause minimum stress. Would it be weird to put the new flock in the coop with our hen while she's on her perch and resting?

I wouldn't risk it. I would do at least 3 days of intro through a fence and then supervised intro for 1-2 hours at a time to make sure the new girls don't beat up on your current one. A lot can happen between chickens in the time between when they wake up and when you get up and let them out. Honestly, they could kill her.

 

[ehoneybee]

I wouldn't risk it. I would do at least 3 days of intro through a fence and then supervised intro for 1-2 hours at a time to make sure the new girls don't beat up on your current one. A lot can happen between chickens in the time between when they wake up and when you get up and let them out. Honestly, they could kill her.

Ooh ok. I only thought that pertained to introducing chicks to a flock. We would be devastated if our last hen met that kind of fate.

 

[Boonie Stomper]

Like what activities? Oh, and she's been alone for 3 days.

something my 3 all love is hang up a fresh half shucked ear of corn... they peck at the treat instead of focusing on each other so much.

 

[aart]

Ooh ok. I only thought that pertained to introducing chicks to a flock. We would be devastated if our last hen met that kind of fate.

Chicks are easier to integrate, but still need time side by side before allowing physical access.

Integration Basics:
It's all about territory and resources(space/food/water).
Existing birds will almost always attack new ones to defend their resources.
Understanding chicken behaviors is essential to integrating new birds into your flock.

Confine new birds within sight but physically segregated from older/existing birds for several weeks, so they can see and get used to each other but not physically interact.

In adjacent runs, spread scratch grains along the dividing mesh, best if mesh is just big enough for birds to stick their head thru, so they get used to eating together.

The more space, the better. Birds will peck to establish dominance, the pecked bird needs space to get away. As long as there's no copious blood drawn and/or new bird is not trapped/pinned down and beaten unmercilessly, let them work it out. Every time you interfere or remove new birds, they'll have to start the pecking order thing all over again.

Multiple feed/water stations. Dominance issues are most often carried out over sustenance, more stations lessens the frequency of that issue.

Places for the new birds to hide 'out of line of sight'(but not a dead end trap) and/or up and away from any bully birds. Roosts, pallets or boards leaned up against walls or up on concrete blocks, old chairs tables, branches, logs, stumps out in the run can really help. Lots of diversion and places to 'hide' instead of bare wide open run.

 

[RWise]

I like to see where they have been kept, how clean that is or is not. Then place them in private quarters to meet. I may or may not wait to put them together, when I do, I move them at night to the roost. I am up before they are, I watch and listen, also the run is 250 x 150 feet, lots of hiding places, etc..

 

[ehoneybee]

Ok. I think what we need to do is get another larger coop and keep our Wyandotte in her coop and the others in the new one with them close enough to see each other (and let them free range together?) I am not an "early bird" so I will not put them all together at night to see what happens - eep! We also planned to get this run and put the coop inside it (although not this exact one, too much

$$$). We don't trust ourselves to make a hawk proof one anymore :/.

 

[bobbi-j]

Yay, thank you! I am so excited to get this girl some friends! There are two scenarios I'm stuck with deciding about. I can get 2 one year old hens (EE, Austrolalorp) or 4 two year old ones (RIR, PR, Australorp). The 4 hens belong to a loving family who want younger hens but these hens to go to a good home (city ordinance says 6 max so they can't add to their flock). The 2 from the other place are extra chickens the owner doesn't need. The 4 chicken family situation is so heart warming I'm leaning toward it but we real only wanted 2 more (coop only holds 4), althoigh I've always thought 5 was a good number for us. Wwyd?

I would get the two younger ones. Mainly because they are younger, so you will have more time with them.

 

[Dawnclucks22]

I personally don't quarantine, but of course I would never introduce an obviously sick chicken into my healthy flock.

 

[ehoneybee]

I would get the two younger ones. Mainly because they are younger, so you will have more time with them.

Thanks, we are picking them up tomorrow