- May 18, 2013
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We discovered that our 4 year-old golden-laced Wyandotte (obtained from Murray McMurray) was waddling around and had a "poopy butt" as our daughter called it. As we gathered her up to clean up her backside, I discovered that her belly was like a full water balloon, not just a little full, but alarmingly so. At first we thought she might be egg-bound and prepared for the worst. We put on a surgical glove and prober her cloaca, thinking we would find broken egg shell in there, but nope.
As usual, I spent hours on the internet and eventually arrived at her diagnosis, ASCITES, (pronounced "***-it-tease"; calm down there dudes, this is a family-oriented Face Book page). After another hour or so of reading I learned that she was not necessarily going to die soon, or need to be euthanized, provided that we periodically drain her abdomen. This post is for those of you who may not know what to do in this situation, in hopes that our experience and advice will keep you with your beloved hen a while longer while extending not just her lifespan, but more importantly, her quality of life.
You can read all you want about the causes of this disease, but in the end, there is really nothing you can do to prevent it, it seems. Apparently, this is a genetic fault due to selective breeding of poultry for fast growth or high egg production. It does appear to be less common among mixed breed birds.
So, if you have a normally-behaving bird (eating, drinking, not lethargic) whose abdomen is very obviously extended, this procedure may help you.
Before I continue, here's my disclaimer (in true lawyer fashion): I did not attend veterinary school, nor did I stay at the Holiday Inn Express last night. Consult your veterinarian if you are at all in doubt or want advice from someone who has been formally educated on animal husbandry and medical care. My wife is a wildlife rehabber and former vet tech, and she and I were both pre-vet and have been employed at many animal hospitals over the years. So, in short, we have lots and lots of hands-on experience.
OK, here we go...
You will need to obtain (probably from your vet) a syringe and a needle, but not just any syringe and needle. There are nearly-identical syringes that are strictly for feeding and will not accommodate a needle. You need the kind that has is threaded for a screw-on needle. Get a 60 cc (mL) syringe, or large, if you can find one. You also do not want a standard needle, but one with tubing, preferably several inches worth (the longer the better). We use a "19 Gauge NIPRO Scalp Vein Set". It does not need to have the "butterfly" (meant to tape the needle down on the skin, to establish an IV, for example), but it makes this a little easier. The tubing will enable you to disconnect and reconnect the needle to the syringe without the needle moving around, possibly injuring the bird or accidentally exiting the skin. Trust me, even with a 60 cc syringe, you will be filling it up many times, and you do not want to have to re-insert the needle into your bird more than is absolutely necessary, for her comfort and your anxiety level.
THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB, so find someone not too queasy to hold the bird on a table or on their lap (best put a towel down first). I find having the bird lying on its side is best for everyone involved.
You will want to choose the injection site somewhat carefully; not too close to the bird's cloaca, and not too far away from it. A good two inches to the left or right and about the same distance below it should be good. You'll part the feathers (wetting them down a little may help), avoid any conspicuous veins, and gently but with determination, insert the needle. If you choose a low-gauge (fat) and short needle, you'll be able to do this with a much lower risk of perforating the bird's intestines (which is NOT fatal if you do), and you'll be able to pull the abdominal fluid out faster.
Once the needle is fully inserted, you will slowly but consistently pull back on the syringe plunger until it is completely filled. Unscrew the needle from the syringe and squirt out the fluid into a container (you’ll want to inspect it later), which should be a golden yellow, not unlike dark urine or a good beer. Insert your jokes here.
Compress the syringe before placing the needle back on and reattach the needle, or you’ll be inserting air into the bird’s abdomen, which is NOT what you want to do. Repeat these steps until the abdomen seems adequately drained, or until you are not easily extracting more fluid. It is better to not completely drain the abdomen than to try to remove too much fluid in one session. Do not be surprised if you get 2 or even 3 cups of this fluid from your bird. It took 8, 60 cc syringe-fulls to get most of the fluid from our hen, and the result is pretty amazing, I have to say. When you are done or if the bird is exhibiting discomfort, remove the needle and return the bird to its flock.
There is no reason to isolate the bird if it is behaving normally, but the injection site will continue to drip for a while. This is good and normal. Your bird should be walking much more normally now that it is not carrying cups of fluid between its legs, and she will be far more comfortable.
This routine can be repeated weekly or so, and can extend the life of your bird for years.
There are many articles about herbal tinctures and dietary changes that may improve the cardiovascular and liver function of your bird that will slow down the rate at which the abdomen will fill up again, but we do not have any advice (yet) on this stuff.
Good luck, and feel free to email or PM me for advice if you need moral support before attempting this.
BUT, I PROMISE YOU, YOU CAN DO IT!!!
As usual, I spent hours on the internet and eventually arrived at her diagnosis, ASCITES, (pronounced "***-it-tease"; calm down there dudes, this is a family-oriented Face Book page). After another hour or so of reading I learned that she was not necessarily going to die soon, or need to be euthanized, provided that we periodically drain her abdomen. This post is for those of you who may not know what to do in this situation, in hopes that our experience and advice will keep you with your beloved hen a while longer while extending not just her lifespan, but more importantly, her quality of life.
You can read all you want about the causes of this disease, but in the end, there is really nothing you can do to prevent it, it seems. Apparently, this is a genetic fault due to selective breeding of poultry for fast growth or high egg production. It does appear to be less common among mixed breed birds.
So, if you have a normally-behaving bird (eating, drinking, not lethargic) whose abdomen is very obviously extended, this procedure may help you.
Before I continue, here's my disclaimer (in true lawyer fashion): I did not attend veterinary school, nor did I stay at the Holiday Inn Express last night. Consult your veterinarian if you are at all in doubt or want advice from someone who has been formally educated on animal husbandry and medical care. My wife is a wildlife rehabber and former vet tech, and she and I were both pre-vet and have been employed at many animal hospitals over the years. So, in short, we have lots and lots of hands-on experience.
OK, here we go...
You will need to obtain (probably from your vet) a syringe and a needle, but not just any syringe and needle. There are nearly-identical syringes that are strictly for feeding and will not accommodate a needle. You need the kind that has is threaded for a screw-on needle. Get a 60 cc (mL) syringe, or large, if you can find one. You also do not want a standard needle, but one with tubing, preferably several inches worth (the longer the better). We use a "19 Gauge NIPRO Scalp Vein Set". It does not need to have the "butterfly" (meant to tape the needle down on the skin, to establish an IV, for example), but it makes this a little easier. The tubing will enable you to disconnect and reconnect the needle to the syringe without the needle moving around, possibly injuring the bird or accidentally exiting the skin. Trust me, even with a 60 cc syringe, you will be filling it up many times, and you do not want to have to re-insert the needle into your bird more than is absolutely necessary, for her comfort and your anxiety level.
THIS IS A TWO PERSON JOB, so find someone not too queasy to hold the bird on a table or on their lap (best put a towel down first). I find having the bird lying on its side is best for everyone involved.
You will want to choose the injection site somewhat carefully; not too close to the bird's cloaca, and not too far away from it. A good two inches to the left or right and about the same distance below it should be good. You'll part the feathers (wetting them down a little may help), avoid any conspicuous veins, and gently but with determination, insert the needle. If you choose a low-gauge (fat) and short needle, you'll be able to do this with a much lower risk of perforating the bird's intestines (which is NOT fatal if you do), and you'll be able to pull the abdominal fluid out faster.
Once the needle is fully inserted, you will slowly but consistently pull back on the syringe plunger until it is completely filled. Unscrew the needle from the syringe and squirt out the fluid into a container (you’ll want to inspect it later), which should be a golden yellow, not unlike dark urine or a good beer. Insert your jokes here.
Compress the syringe before placing the needle back on and reattach the needle, or you’ll be inserting air into the bird’s abdomen, which is NOT what you want to do. Repeat these steps until the abdomen seems adequately drained, or until you are not easily extracting more fluid. It is better to not completely drain the abdomen than to try to remove too much fluid in one session. Do not be surprised if you get 2 or even 3 cups of this fluid from your bird. It took 8, 60 cc syringe-fulls to get most of the fluid from our hen, and the result is pretty amazing, I have to say. When you are done or if the bird is exhibiting discomfort, remove the needle and return the bird to its flock.
There is no reason to isolate the bird if it is behaving normally, but the injection site will continue to drip for a while. This is good and normal. Your bird should be walking much more normally now that it is not carrying cups of fluid between its legs, and she will be far more comfortable.
This routine can be repeated weekly or so, and can extend the life of your bird for years.
There are many articles about herbal tinctures and dietary changes that may improve the cardiovascular and liver function of your bird that will slow down the rate at which the abdomen will fill up again, but we do not have any advice (yet) on this stuff.
Good luck, and feel free to email or PM me for advice if you need moral support before attempting this.
BUT, I PROMISE YOU, YOU CAN DO IT!!!
