Does a tractor need a run?

dulahdaglace

Songster
8 Years
Feb 23, 2016
31
71
149
Missouri
I'm building a woods open air coop mini, which will have about 32ft sq for about 6 egg birds, and be moved daily unlike some of the larger ones that are moved less frequently. What are your thoughts on if I need a run during the 3 warmer seasons? (Current plan is to have it stationary in winter and attach a run probably because I don't want them to be forced to walk on a new patch of snow/ice daily)
 
A Woods Coop has to be somewhat larger than what you are building,,,,, to have the open side, and relatively draft free inside.
Your small coop/tractor will encounter draft if wind is blowing in any substantial force... You can still have it to serve your chickens,,,,, but I suggest you close off the open side up for the night.
For 6 chickens,,, your coop is at about minimum for size. Chickens do need a run area to do daytime living during non-severe weather conditions. Suggested amount of area in run is 10 Square feet per chicken. Depending on how you view this,,,, You will ether need to add another 30 Square feet,,, or 60 square feet.
The larger the run area you provide,,,, the less problems you should be encountering in chicken bad behavior.

WISHING YOU BEST,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :highfive:
 
A Woods Coop has to be somewhat larger than what you are building,,,,, to have the open side, and relatively draft free inside.
Your small coop/tractor will encounter draft if wind is blowing in any substantial force... You can still have it to serve your chickens,,,,, but I suggest you close off the open side up for the night.
For 6 chickens,,, your coop is at about minimum for size. Chickens do need a run area to do daytime living during non-severe weather conditions. Suggested amount of area in run is 10 Square feet per chicken. Depending on how you view this,,,, You will ether need to add another 30 Square feet,,, or 60 square feet.
The larger the run area you provide,,,, the less problems you should be encountering in chicken bad behavior.

WISHING YOU BEST,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, :highfive:
I worked out dimensions- about 8 ft deep, 5 1/2 tall, and a little less than 4 ft wide to allow roof overhang. Open side is the 4 ft side. I can definitely add a slide door to the open end for nights though, or maybe just a wind break wall. Once it gets built and moved in I'll make adjustments.
Thanks for the input on the run too! I know meat tractors often don't have the run, but I don't see as much info on egg tractors so I'm trying to glean from the experts
 
What are your thoughts on if I need a run during the 3 warmer seasons?
Do you have any specific concerns? It's easier to talk about something specific than answer a general question like this.

I kept chickens in Northwest Arkansas so I have a rough idea of your climate. You might need some shade in the heat of summer but your climate isn't too bad for that to work. What your tractor looks like could have an effect on how well it works.

Each chicken has its own personality. Sometimes you get one that just doesn't like another. They could be the same breed or different breeds. They could be any breed. For the most part hens should get along well so you should be OK but every now and then you run into some problems along these lines. You can have these problems with a lot more space anyway but tight spaces make these issues worse. I don't anticipate any problems but just watch their behaviors.

I once kept a rooster and eight hens in a tractor twice the size as yours. It was in two parts so was not that hard to move. The big problem I has was that they poop a lot. If the weather were wet I'd probably move it daily. If it were really dry weather I might move it every three days but every two days was normal. My reason to move it was not related to food though they would trample down the vegetation and scratch the dirt. It would grow back pretty soon but it left a mark on the field for a while. My issue was not behaviors or food, just that it quickly became a slimy mess, especially if it rained.

I did not stay with it that long, just a few weeks. When it was time to move it then it was time to move it. No trips to see the grandkids. It really tied me down, let alone eating into me time to do anything else. I decided that it wasn't worth it to me, not to depend on it.

Current plan is to have it stationary in winter and attach a run probably because I don't want them to be forced to walk on a new patch of snow/ice daily)
My concerns here would be how do you manage the poop? In a small space it can build up quickly so you need access to work. Also, in Missouri you will have some pretty cold days with wind. A lot depends on what your tractor looks like, can they get out of the wind?

Your general plan could work if you are willing to commit the time all year around. It will depend on a few of the details.

Good luck!
 
Do you have any specific concerns? It's easier to talk about something specific than answer a general question like this.

I kept chickens in Northwest Arkansas so I have a rough idea of your climate. You might need some shade in the heat of summer but your climate isn't too bad for that to work. What your tractor looks like could have an effect on how well it works.

Each chicken has its own personality. Sometimes you get one that just doesn't like another. They could be the same breed or different breeds. They could be any breed. For the most part hens should get along well so you should be OK but every now and then you run into some problems along these lines. You can have these problems with a lot more space anyway but tight spaces make these issues worse. I don't anticipate any problems but just watch their behaviors.

I once kept a rooster and eight hens in a tractor twice the size as yours. It was in two parts so was not that hard to move. The big problem I has was that they poop a lot. If the weather were wet I'd probably move it daily. If it were really dry weather I might move it every three days but every two days was normal. My reason to move it was not related to food though they would trample down the vegetation and scratch the dirt. It would grow back pretty soon but it left a mark on the field for a while. My issue was not behaviors or food, just that it quickly became a slimy mess, especially if it rained.

I did not stay with it that long, just a few weeks. When it was time to move it then it was time to move it. No trips to see the grandkids. It really tied me down, let alone eating into me time to do anything else. I decided that it wasn't worth it to me, not to depend on it.


My concerns here would be how do you manage the poop? In a small space it can build up quickly so you need access to work. Also, in Missouri you will have some pretty cold days with wind. A lot depends on what your tractor looks like, can they get out of the wind?

Your general plan could work if you are willing to commit the time all year around. It will depend on a few of the details.

Good luck!
wow this is super insightful. I work a lot in some seasons, so my homeschooled 9 and 10 year olds will be moving the coop daily during my busy seasons. I want to keep it simple because they love the quail we have now, and I don't want them to resent having to move the birds often when we get chickens. I feel that if they have to move the coop and the run, it will get old a lot faster. We have heavy predator pressure even during the day, so free ranging isn't really an option. My tentative winter plan was to put straw or hay down in the winter and shovel it out periodically, and having a door on the outside for accessing eggs. I'm short so I should be able to shovel it out and/or just moving the coop. I dont mind moving it in the winter, I just don't want to move it daily when there's snow outside. I'm wanting all hens.
 

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