Doing my best to raise these ducks

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Soon2BChixMom said:
The post you quoted was not the OPs ducklings though. The ducklings in the first post have no feathers. Maybe a sprig on the tail. So, I believe they are younger than that. 3 weeks at the most.
But, otherwise, you have provided great info! :thumbsup
Click to expand...

Yea no that was that link that was given. My 9 week olds look nothing like that. Still 3/4 fuzz balls and 1/4 feathers
 
I would echo the sentiment of 2-3 weeks old. Mine started getting the whisky type feathers at 3 weeks that I don’t see in yours yet. And also as others have mentioned niacin is going to be extra important for them. My Pekins were sneaking my calf started pellets instead of their feed. The calf starter didn’t have niacin in it. And just short of a week, their legs started bowing and quivering when they walked from weakness. And not every Pekin will experience it, but I would absolutely supplement with nutritional yeast (brewers yeast doesn’t have enough for Pekins in my opinion) or liquid b complex. I love my Pekins and I bet you will too. They are highly food motivated. It’s my opinion that food is the easiest way to get them comfortable with you.

I put my Pekins outside when the nighttime temps were in the 40s. They were the same age as yours. The thing that is different about Pekins is they normally run hot. My Pekins will always start panting waaaay before my cayugas. And my cayugas are black. I probably wouldn’t even bother with a heat lamp. Other breeds I would advise differently, but not with Pekins. Give them a place to go to and snuggle if they get cold. But I doubt they will.

If it’s in the 80s when they are swimming, I wouldn’t worry about them getting cold. Especially if they are swimming in the sun. But monitor them as they do get tired. I had Pekins get into water and I didn’t know about it. One of them drowned because I wasn’t there and they couldn’t get out. It was awful.

So to recap:
1) niacin, niacin, niacin to protect their legs.
2)feed them peas out of your hand and they will be pretty tame
3)They get too hot easily when full grown so always have shade available when they are adults.

Let us know if you have any other questions along the way.
 
Now that I've gotten a chance to see the op pics on my phone (was on hubby's phone earlier and they were grainy) I do have to agree to about 3 weeks. If you can take a pic of one next to something it would be easier to confirm. With the temps you are having I would offer a heat lamp but not put them directly under it. Those lamps put off some serious heat so hover it about 3-4feet from ground/floor. This will allow them to use it as needed. You will probably only need to use it for a couple weeks. Monitor them and when you see they no longer huddle under or around it you can remove it. Naturally they would huddle with mom, no heat source. Getting them a shallow "tub" they can easily get in and out of (like a Tupperware bowl/container) will make a good "pool" for them at this stage. Again, it helps activate their glands as they begin to feather out. The head dunking is extremely important. So the dish with holes that @Soon2BChixMom mentioned is right on point. Clean dry bedding and clean water, and keep feed clean and available. Ducks poo a lot! If you garden, think of the soiled bedding as good fertilizer/compost! You can also offer live feeder fish as they grow as treats. It's fun to watch them go after the fish in their water bowls. Spinach is a good healthy treat as well.
 
CayugaJana said:
I would echo the sentiment of 2-3 weeks old. Mine started getting the whisky type feathers at 3 weeks that I don’t see in yours yet. And also as others have mentioned niacin is going to be extra important for them. My Pekins were sneaking my calf started pellets instead of their feed. The calf starter didn’t have niacin in it. And just short of a week, their legs started bowing and quivering when they walked from weakness. And not every Pekin will experience it, but I would absolutely supplement with nutritional yeast (brewers yeast doesn’t have enough for Pekins in my opinion) or liquid b complex. I love my Pekins and I bet you will too. They are highly food motivated. It’s my opinion that food is the easiest way to get them comfortable with you.

I put my Pekins outside when the nighttime temps were in the 40s. They were the same age as yours. The thing that is different about Pekins is they normally run hot. My Pekins will always start panting waaaay before my cayugas. And my cayugas are black. I probably wouldn’t even bother with a heat lamp. Other breeds I would advise differently, but not with Pekins. Give them a place to go to and snuggle if they get cold. But I doubt they will.

If it’s in the 80s when they are swimming, I wouldn’t worry about them getting cold. Especially if they are swimming in the sun. But monitor them as they do get tired. I had Pekins get into water and I didn’t know about it. One of them drowned because I wasn’t there and they couldn’t get out. It was awful.

So to recap:
1) niacin, niacin, niacin to protect their legs.
2)feed them peas out of your hand and they will be pretty tame
3)They get too hot easily when full grown so always have shade available when they are adults.

Let us know if you have any other questions along the way.
Click to expand...

X2
 
CayugaJana said:
I would echo the sentiment of 2-3 weeks old. Mine started getting the whisky type feathers at 3 weeks that I don’t see in yours yet. And also as others have mentioned niacin is going to be extra important for them. My Pekins were sneaking my calf started pellets instead of their feed. The calf starter didn’t have niacin in it. And just short of a week, their legs started bowing and quivering when they walked from weakness. And not every Pekin will experience it, but I would absolutely supplement with nutritional yeast (brewers yeast doesn’t have enough for Pekins in my opinion) or liquid b complex. I love my Pekins and I bet you will too. They are highly food motivated. It’s my opinion that food is the easiest way to get them comfortable with you.

I put my Pekins outside when the nighttime temps were in the 40s. They were the same age as yours. The thing that is different about Pekins is they normally run hot. My Pekins will always start panting waaaay before my cayugas. And my cayugas are black. I probably wouldn’t even bother with a heat lamp. Other breeds I would advise differently, but not with Pekins. Give them a place to go to and snuggle if they get cold. But I doubt they will.

If it’s in the 80s when they are swimming, I wouldn’t worry about them getting cold. Especially if they are swimming in the sun. But monitor them as they do get tired. I had Pekins get into water and I didn’t know about it. One of them drowned because I wasn’t there and they couldn’t get out. It was awful.

So to recap:
1) niacin, niacin, niacin to protect their legs.
2)feed them peas out of your hand and they will be pretty tame
3)They get too hot easily when full grown so always have shade available when they are adults.

Let us know if you have any other questions along the way.
Click to expand...

MatthewsHomestead said:
Now that I've gotten a chance to see the op pics on my phone (was on hubby's phone earlier and they were grainy) I do have to agree to about 3 weeks. If you can take a pic of one next to something it would be easier to confirm. With the temps you are having I would offer a heat lamp but not put them directly under it. Those lamps put off some serious heat so hover it about 3-4feet from ground/floor. This will allow them to use it as needed. You will probably only need to use it for a couple weeks. Monitor them and when you see they no longer huddle under or around it you can remove it. Naturally they would huddle with mom, no heat source. Getting them a shallow "tub" they can easily get in and out of (like a Tupperware bowl/container) will make a good "pool" for them at this stage. Again, it helps activate their glands as they begin to feather out. The head dunking is extremely important. So the dish with holes that @Soon2BChixMom mentioned is right on point. Clean dry bedding and clean water, and keep feed clean and available. Ducks poo a lot! If you garden, think of the soiled bedding as good fertilizer/compost! You can also offer live feeder fish as they grow as treats. It's fun to watch them go after the fish in their water bowls. Spinach is a good healthy treat as well.
Click to expand...
:goodpost::goodpost:
Except No to spinach (or very little). It zaps the calcium from them.

Also, at the top of the duck forum is the sticky topic posts. These are great reads for all duck owners. There is a treat list there too.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/ducks-sticky-topics-index.256233/
 
Soon2BChixMom said:
:goodpost::goodpost:
Except No to spinach (or very little). It zaps the calcium from them.

Also, at the top of the duck forum is the sticky topic posts. These are great reads for all duck owners. There is a treat list there too.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/ducks-sticky-topics-index.256233/
Click to expand...

:eek:

It seems no matter how old or young, experienced or inexperienced, there is always something to learn. I never knew that, it's always been advised that "it's super good for them". Thank you lady!!!!;)
 

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