Door problems

It is this from home depot
LP SmartSide SmartSide 38 Series Cedar Texture 8 in. OC Panel Engineered Treated Wood Siding.
That can be good siding... it is very important to paint or stain the cut edges, though. On the door, too. Once it gets wet between the layers, it swells then dries uncompressed so water gets in easier and deeper the next time.

I'm not careful enough of doors to not chip the coatings off them so they do not last long for me. But it will last a while - longer it it is stiffened and chips are touched up.

And, I change my suggestion of attaching the wire directly to the door....too many holes for that material.

I think my first choice in your situation would be to rebuild the door in external grade plywood. And make it a bit bigger than the opening framing so the edges overlap top and bottom.
 
Could be coons, dog, fox....pretty much anything with claws except bear....bear would have gotten in.

I would trim the door and the wall with1x3 or 1x4 boards.

What is the inside door framed like
Framing...is that like pieces outlining the door itself?
No nothing but the LP SmartSide SmartSide 38 Series Cedar Texture 8 in. OC Panel Engineered Treated Wood Siding that has been cut to fit as door.
 
That can be good siding... it is very important to paint or stain the cut edges, though. On the door, too. Once it gets wet between the layers, it swells then dries uncompressed so water gets in easier and deeper the next time.

I'm not careful enough of doors to not chip the coatings off them so they do not last long for me. But it will last a while - longer it it is stiffened and chips are touched up.

And, I change my suggestion of attaching the wire directly to the door....too many holes for that material.

I think my first choice in your situation would be to rebuild the door in external grade plywood. And make it a bit bigger than the opening framing so the edges overlap top and bottom.
Ok...I have 2 pieces leftover so guess I'll do that. Pray I do it right...son-in-law is tired fooling with it.
 
That can be good siding... it is very important to paint or stain the cut edges, though. On the door, too. Once it gets wet between the layers, it swells then dries uncompressed so water gets in easier and deeper the next time.

I'm not careful enough of doors to not chip the coatings off them so they do not last long for me. But it will last a while - longer it it is stiffened and chips are touched up.

And, I change my suggestion of attaching the wire directly to the door....too many holes for that material.

I think my first choice in your situation would be to rebuild the door in external grade plywood. And make it a bit bigger than the opening framing so the edges overlap top and bottom.
We didn't get to finish painting everything due to weather getting too cold...will paint adhere correctly in 30s-50s? It us a barn paint.
 
Ideally, edges and cross bars to stiffen and strengthen the door. Like the first picture. That will make it a lot heavier, so it is likely to need stronger hinges. And maybe reinforcement where the latch attaches.

I would probably cut then attach strips of metal lath around the edges of the door and the edge beside the door. If that is too heavy, then hardware cloth very securely attached.

Raccoons can open your current latch, the way it is. If it was a raccoon at the door, it is likely to try the latch and other parts of the shed too.
I guess I've taken for granted that nothing has bothered my three 8 month olds in adjoining run/pre-fab coop.
I added another 1x3 trim piece to the bottom there to give that extra support. I had planned to finish trimming it all out but thought it could wait...guessed wrong again.
 
When I build a door out of plywood or paneling I edge it with boards the way Saysfaa did. That greatly stiffens the edges. If it is very big I put diagonals like that too, diagonals help keep it from warping or swaying. That photo is a good example. If it is just a small guillotine type pop door I find a way to put some 1x2's on it to stiffen it and keep it from warping.

I'm not sure if that is a single door or double doors, probably a single. Does it open in or out? Paying attention to how it opens if you put a 1x3 or 1x4 along the vertical edge, have it extend an inch or so from the edge to close that gap. That can be on the door itself or on the wall. Same type of thing at the top and bottom. Either on the door itself but it's often easier on the frame, put some wood to close that gap and hopefully back it up so it can't be pushed in.

Doors, gates, windows, and corners are often the weakest parts of your coop and run, they need special attention.
I think I understand...I added a piece for the night...prayin it helps til I get more daylight.
 
I posted this in predator forum but not many responses...how would yall go about fixing this to prevent unwanted visitors?
Do I need to add another latch to the bottom there?
Do I need to add another 1x3 trim lined with hardware cloth somehow to overlap the opening?
We have wrought iron fencing around our property but thats not gonna do much and no way husband will ever do more around that fencing.
Thread 'Help - WHAT am I dealing with?' https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/help-what-am-i-dealing-with.1504893/
I would add another latch first then reinforce the door as others have said. A caribeener is a better latch with hasp, coons are clever.! Wire fence a possibility? It stops a lot of creatures.
 

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