Double overlap welded wire fencing instead of hardware cloth?

HouseMouseHens

Chirping
7 Years
Jul 31, 2012
245
31
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Portland, Oregon
My Coop
My Coop
So, We're doing out entire run(except it will have a proper roof since it rains here constantly) with 2x4 welded wire fencing, as we can't afford to buy enough hardware cloth for the entire thing. We planned on getting 24" wide hardware cloth to go around the bottom so nothing can reach in and grab the girls, but I had two other ideas, and I thought I'd run them by you guys for your thoughts.

Idea #1:

I thought we could use the welded wire for a second layer of fencing around the bottom two feet, but offset it an inch from the first layer so it's basically 1x2 inch holes. I'm not sure if I explained that well... Basically we would add the fencing the same way, just moved sideways one inch and up two inches so it isn't lined up, making the smaller holes. We're planning to sandwich the fencing between the 4x4 posts with a second 2x4 on the inside (fencing in between) so it's really secure.
Does this sound like it might work? I figure it will, since it'll be really secure and the holes will then be so much smaller. We have raccoons, opossum, feral neighborhood cats, and a potentially chicken eating Aussie shepherd to worry about. We live in a very urban area, so during the day isn't really a worry so much, and they will be locked in the coop at night.

Idea #2:

We are planning to use 2x8 boards all the way around the bottom of the run to keep the gravel and sand in, so my other thought was to use 2x12 boards stacked two high (so 24 inches high) all the way around, killing two birds with one stone. Keeping the gravel and sand in, and predators out. I like this idea better than using the fencing overlapped, as I think it will look nicer.

We plan to build garden boxes along a few of the three foot stretches between posts anyways, so this just eliminated having to build the back part of the boxes as well..

Thoughts?
 
If they're going to be in the coop at night, then 2x4 wire should be fine for the run.

One of my runs is chain link, and the other is and 2x4 wire above 2' of plywood in a mobile coop.

And actually I don't close them into the coop at night -- I used to, but it doesn't seem necessary the way things are set up. The perches are far enough from the fence wire that nothing can reach them. A predator would have to get inside the fence in order to get them.

I get a rat snake eating eggs now and then, but haven't had trouble with raccoons, opossums or coyotes, all of which are around here.

Using extra wood on the bottom and perhaps an apron of wire to discourage digging sound like better ideas than trying to overlap the wire. (Although... have you priced 2x12's ??)

-Wendy
 
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If they're going to be in the coop at night, then 2x4 wire should be fine for the run.

One of my runs is chain link, and the other is and 2x4 wire above 2' of plywood in a mobile coop.

And actually I don't close them into the coop at night -- I used to, but it doesn't seem necessary the way things are set up. The perches are far enough from the fence wire that nothing can reach them. A predator would have to get inside the fence in order to get them.

I get a rat snake eating eggs now and then, but haven't had trouble with raccoons, opossums or coyotes, all of which are around here.

Using extra wood on the bottom and perhaps an apron of wire to discourage digging sound like better ideas than trying to overlap the wire. (Although... have you priced 2x12's ??)

-Wendy

I actually already have a bunch os 2x12a, 2x8s and 2x6s. I get all my lumber reclaimed so it's actually super cheap. :)
 
I am using something similar. We did a 1x6 around the bottom of our temporary coop and my husband used the hardware cloth up 24 inches-stapleing with 1/2 inch steel stables to another board. we could not buy the gauge of the hardware cloth as heavy as we wanted locally, so he used 2x4 welded wire fencing from the same 1x6 all the way up to the ceiling for the entire space. It made the fence much stiffer, my donkey can't move it so the coyotos won't!
 
I think you'll find that you may START with it "centered", but the farther you go , the more likely it is you'll get out of line and STILL end up with 2" spaces.

It would be easier to just use a smaller size wire around the bottom to be SURE
 
There is a fencing that starts small at on end and the size holes increase as you go up, I've seen it on Tractor supply web site as well as in the store. Listed for Rabbits I think. That would work for the 1st 24", or it's 36" then you could switch.
 

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