Doulbe Yolks and Newbie Incubator

Humidity is a flexible number with alot of variables to find what works best for you. Your local humidity affects it, the thickness of the egg shells, the porosity of the shells, are just a few major influences. So unfortunately, it takes a little experimenting to find the proper number for each and every incubation. Experience comes from watching the air cells and adjusting as necessary.

And keep in mind that humidity in and incubator is by surface area, not depth or amount. A fluid liter of water in a tall champagne glass puts off alot less humidity than a liter of water poured into a flat pan. I sometimes use a tall shot-glass, so its just a tiny bit added. Sponges are helpful also because they are more easily adjustable than the channels in the incubator. Not having anything that the hatchlings can get into is also something to consider.

I would suggest starting with trying to keep it in the 30-40% range, and adjust if necessary after day 7 candle.

When to raise is somewhat flexible also but day 25 is the usual day. If the development looks a little behind, you can hold off a day. If they look further along, a day earlier is ok too.
 
I also forgot to mention ventilation! It's a factor that is overlooked alot. I've read some studies that suggest less ventilation for a certain few days early on, but I leave all my vent holes fully open throughout the whole process. I never close them. The exchange of oxygen through the egg shell is important, and with the vents closed, that exchange can't happen. So make sure your vents are open.
 
temperature is bang on the money still 37.5 humidity is still hi i have vents open have not put any water in so waiting for water to evaporate rather than disturbing the eggs by trying to soak up fluid

but would removing fluid immediately be a better option?

I am concerned that the eggs will be infertile again anyway i genuinely hope not i sent an email to my ebay supplier advising him of my post on here i gave him the link so he will have access to this if he looks ... a lot of feedback regarding his eggs are stating that they are old or different size and infertile A LOT of eggs have been sent out with zero growth results. the positive feedback is all about receiving eggs in good condition and on time which to be fair they have done twice but the signs are not looking good....

My plan if advice from you guys is not to the contrary is to let water evaporate naturally and if humidity does not fall i will candle and remove water when i get my Aylesbury eggs on Tuesday that will be 5 days and should show something?

i can reset humidity properly then if not done so already

SD
 
I agree it's odd to have so many double yolks. I too would ask the seller about this. There may be a couple different possibilities why there wasn't any development in the first attempt. Where are you, in your part of the world, in regards to breeding season? Did it just begin? Often the first 10-14 days, fertility is very low. The eggs may have been infertile. What are the shipping practices in your country? Here in the US, packages can be x-rayed, which negatively affects hatching eggs. Yes, double yolks are difficult to hatch.

Yes, if you are placing multiple settings in one incubator, you will have better hatching odds, if you use a separate hatcher. We move our eggs into hatcher for "lock down" three days before expected hatch date.
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Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
HI there all got my new eggs today so have candled the Welsh Harlequins that have been in my incubator for 5 days here are the pics ....

No growth what so ever or am i missing something?













DY means Double yolk 6 is just the egg number so this is all 6 eggs

I have left them in the incubator at the moment pending your advice / confirmation that the eggs are not fertile

Thanks again for your help in advance

SD
 
The first pic looks like possible growth, and a couple others maybe. The one with the 3 on it looks clear. And a couple of those look to me like the air cell is on the side? The air cell should be in the fat end of the egg. So next time, shine the light thru the air cell and see if you see any difference. I usually candle all around just to look, but you will see the best growth from shining into the cell.
 
Be sure when you buy the eggs that it says fertile eggs.

Duck eggs do best when incubated on their sides( Brinsea incubators have a turner that allows you to incubate on the side)

Other than that I think you are doing everything right!
 
Just to give the benefit of the doubt, I would wait a few more days then candle them again. The embryos, if present, are easier seen at 7-10 days of incubation. Have you spoken with egg supplier to discuss the double yolks and infertile eggs?

Good luck.
 
i am going to wait till ten days yes egss said fertile but feedback from other buyers is not good.... this will be 12 eggs now and none fertile, i have the janoel 24 so eggs are incubating on their side so all is good, its autumn here so these would be the last eggs of the season ?

the main thing that worries me as a newbie is i have nothing to go on experience wise even if i had an egg that started to grow would give me a bit of confidence.

anyway i have my aylesburies in the bator now so will candle them next weekend to see if i have anything

if nothing i will wait to the spring before i have another go
 

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