Calibration and accurate readings are important. I don't trust the expensive ones any more than the cheap ones. This sounds like an inaccurate reading issue to me.
A couple of things here. Which dry hatch method are you using? To some dry hatch means you don't add any water or moisture. Other methods call for a low moisture level but you are allowed to adjust the humidity. You can certainly incubate at that moisture level and call it anything you want. Whether that would meet your definition of dry hatch I'm not sure. Some people do incubate at 50% and do pretty good. Others do better when it is lower.
I you are running it with no water, what else can you do? How can you get it lower?
The eggs don't care if those vents are open or closed. They care about temperature, moisture, turning, air quality, things like that. I run mine wide open all the time. Closing them should raise the humidity and can hurt air quality late in incubation. Early in incubation air quality doesn't matter that much.
The eggs don't need fresh air early in incubation but as the embryos develop they breathe in oxygen and breathe out carbon dioxide. The egg shell is porous so they can exchange good air for bad. The later in incubation the more oxygen they need and the more carbon dioxide they need to get rid of. The incubation trouble shooting guides list this as a possible cause of the chicks dying just before, during, or just after hatch.
Opening or closing the vents change the humidity on my incubator. I leave mine open the entire time so there is one less factor I have to deal with when I go into lockdown and rise the humidity.