Dry Incubation **NOW WITH PHOTOS!** - How Low is Too Low? 10% Humidity**ANSWERED: NO.**

I personally don't follow this practice Jeff. I have a separate Sportsman hatcher to avoid this problem. But I also know that these units even used are a bit expensive for the hobbyist. So I've several friends that do in fact do what you describe and have good success.

I cannot speak for others that use the Sportsman in this manner but here's a procedure that I am familiar with:

1. Since the Sportsman is relatively self contained you don't have to open the unit daily as it has external vents to aid in air exchange. So during the three day hatch you don't generally add another tray in the incubator section. Generally when you put a tray in for incubation you lower a tray to hatch. When the hatch is done usually you add a new tray to incubate and lower an existing one into the hatch area.

2. One friend holds his unit at a constant 60% relative humidity and partially to fully closes the lower vent openings during the hatch to reduce air flow thereby raising humidity in the lower area. Another friend does it differently and actually uses a wick (cotton twine works too) serpentined under the hatch tray and then leads it out through a vent whole into a bowl of warm water during the hatch. He manages to raise humidity in the lower area while maintaining about 50% in the upper incubating area.


Best advice on this is too run the unit empty for a couple of weeks with two hygrometers and thermometers - on set on the bottom hatching area and one set set on one of the empty incubating trays on the second rack of the turner. Run it and experiment and read the two units three to four times daily recording the results in a journal. I also recommend a third set be kept in the room where the incubator is and record them (properly noting that it's the room unit, the upper unit and the lower unit) for at least two weeks adjusting as needed (recording these adjustments too) as well as using various ideas along the way (recording these in the journal as well) to see what works best for you.

Too often as poultry enthusiasts we rush to get our eggs into the incubator without properly preparing for the hatch.

I've been a poultry-man for a long time and I still have to put the brakes on sometimes myself. I spend a good part of my winter even now running empty incubators and hatchers just to see what I can do different to get optimal results. After-all, if you even change the result of a hatch by .1% to the positive this can be a lot of chicks produced.

And besides playing with the incubator empty is a lot of fun too; especially knowing that you are setting up the best possible conditions for that future hatch you are looking forward to!
 
Last edited:
I was going to continue the topic of humdity and its indirect effects on genetics here but I will move this line of dicussion to my string on Standard of Perfection as I don't want to bog people down with a genetics discussion that aren't intersted.

I will write several topics on Epigenisis and Epigenetics continuing on the string below:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/623070/standard-of-perfection#post_8301449

The reason this string caught my attention is I don't want folks thinking humidity isn't going to affect the chick drastically rather I want people to recognize that humidity directly impacts a chicks future epigentically and that these changes can have lasting consequences to the chick and to future offspring

As always Good Luck and happy hatching!
 
Thank you very much. I don't have a sportsman yet, but plan on getting one in a few months (unless I decide I'd be competent enough to build one). Currently, I'm using a Little Giant still air, with, lately, very poor results including a hatch rate of zero that just ended tonight when I pitched all 8 eggs that made it to lock down. As much as we've loved hatching, this was horribly disappointing. We've had the following results...

1) Set 8 eggs, only 3 developed, and all 3 hatched. Our roo had just matured, and the other 5 probably were not fertilized. Did not use a turner. Opened the bator 3 times a day to turn. Kept the water canals full, filling them every few days during a turn. Struggled with low humidity during lock down.
2) Set 18 shipped eggs and 4 of our own. 2 shipped and all 4 of ours hatched. First hatch with auto turner. Kept water full like last. Struggled with humidity during lock down again.
3) Set 9 of our own. 8 hatched. Used dryer method, with 3 jars of water, each with a sponge sticking out as a wick, at lock down.
4) Set 24 shipped eggs and 9 of our own. 1 shipped and 3 of ours hatched. Used less water during first 18 days, same water method during lock down as last hatch.
5) Set 21 of our own. 0 hatched. Tried much drier method during incubation. Removed all but 8 by day 16. From day 1, placed weight on top of bator for better seal and temps and humidity stayed much more consistent. Rooster was gone at this point, and we expected low fertilization, plus some eggs were probably too old. All 8 were never internally pipped, so probably died at lock down.

I have STRUGGLED with humidity and keeping temps consistent. I have purchased 3 different thermometer/hygrometer devices, 2 digital (Accurite from walmart, and one with probe from popular incubator website), and a plastic analog from ebay. All 3 have failed me regarding humidity, either for no apparent reason, or because some water may have dripped on them while trying to add some via straw during lock down (oops).

So now, we're feeling a little defeated. Per your previous post, having added the turner could mean less ventilation, since I'm not opening the bator 3 times per day. Also, adding the weight which helped stabilize temps and humidity, could have worsened this issue. I guess to combat it, I could use the weight, but manually open the bator once a day or so?

I know I can't expect good hatches with shipped eggs, but I expected to see all 8 hatch this time. At this point, I'm kind of scratching my head wondering what to try next. I think the dry method (which was more severe the last hatch) certainly did nothing for me. So I'll go back to the first couple hatches for how I dealt with humidity during incubation. Probably use only 1 or 2 jars during lock down, and hope for the best?

Any advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.
 
I personally don't follow this practice Jeff. I have a separate Sportsman hatcher to avoid this problem. But I also know that these units even used are a bit expensive for the hobbyist. So I've several friends that do in fact do what you describe and have good success.

I cannot speak for others that use the Sportsman in this manner but here's a procedure that I am familiar with:

1. Since the Sportsman is relatively self contained you don't have to open the unit daily as it has external vents to aid in air exchange. So during the three day hatch you don't generally add another tray in the incubator section. Generally when you put a tray in for incubation you lower a tray to hatch. When the hatch is done usually you add a new tray to incubate and lower an existing one into the hatch area.

2. One friend holds his unit at a constant 60% relative humidity and partially to fully closes the lower vent openings during the hatch to reduce air flow thereby raising humidity in the lower area. Another friend does it differently and actually uses a wick (cotton twine works too) serpentined under the hatch tray and then leads it out through a vent whole into a bowl of warm water during the hatch. He manages to raise humidity in the lower area while maintaining about 50% in the upper incubating area.


Best advice on this is too run the unit empty for a couple of weeks with two hygrometers and thermometers - on set on the bottom hatching area and one set set on one of the empty incubating trays on the second rack of the turner. Run it and experiment and read the two units three to four times daily recording the results in a journal. I also recommend a third set be kept in the room where the incubator is and record them (properly noting that it's the room unit, the upper unit and the lower unit) for at least two weeks adjusting as needed (recording these adjustments too) as well as using various ideas along the way (recording these in the journal as well) to see what works best for you.

Too often as poultry enthusiasts we rush to get our eggs into the incubator without properly preparing for the hatch.

I've been a poultry-man for a long time and I still have to put the brakes on sometimes myself. I spend a good part of my winter even now running empty incubators and hatchers just to see what I can do different to get optimal results. After-all, if you even change the result of a hatch by .1% to the positive this can be a lot of chicks produced.

And besides playing with the incubator empty is a lot of fun too; especially knowing that you are setting up the best possible conditions for that future hatch you are looking forward to!

Some of us chicken folks must just be "simple"!!!
tongue.png
It never occurred to me to run all my equipment empty and just fool around with settings and conditions. What a BRILLIANT idea. I've gotten LOADS of ideas from this thread and others. Everything I own is now set up and running with thermometers and hygrometers on board - and nothing whatsoever to lose. This is almost as much fun as hatching!!!!
jumpy.gif
 
Something i've learned, we all live in different climates, and altitudes. Temperature and humidity differences have to be taken into account. Because something works for me in North Carolina doesn't mean its going to work for someone in the west of my state in the mountains at a higher altitude, or someone below sea level, or someone out in AZ where its very dry or in the gulf where it tends to be more humid that here.

I tried following the "general rule" of incubation, what Allen quoted earlier on, those higher rates of humidity...BUT For me I have a horrible hatch rate and a lot of drowned embryos if I let my day 1-18 humidity over 45 or 50% What works best FOR ME is roughly 20-25% humidity, which usually means I don't have to add any water, occassionally we're running really dry and the hygrometer dips to 15% and I add a tad bit of water. Then on lock down I I bump humidity up to 60% range, and when I notice the first pips I may add a bit more water, and that seems to start a chain reaction of pipping and hatching and as the new babies hatch they are letting out moisture from the eggs, and by the time I start taking babies out - the humidity may be 80+% from the initial 60%.
 
Last edited:
Mr.Miller has given the best advice you could ask for. This man has knowledge most of us can only dream of. I have been hatching a few years now, have tried many different ways, and find his advice to be spot on. One of my greatest tools in life has been to pay attention to someone who knows much more than I do!
 
I have a small batch that have been incubating at ~10% humidity in a Genesis hovabator and I just now put them in lock down and raised the humidity. They are not only bantam eggs, but they are also pullet eggs and very small. I've found with my bantam eggs that if I keep the humidity at "normal" levels my chicks get too big/air cells too small and they can't configure themselves in order to pip the air cell. I've lost a lot of chicks this way. I'll check back and let everyone know how this hatch turns out. 10% is a new record low humidity level for me and I'm not sure what to expect.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom