Eastern Tennessee Thread

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Tigeura
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. I read lots of posts, books before we came up with how we will be building the coop. Right now we have a temporary coop off the back of the barn, waiting to remodel a child's wooden play house to hold 20. I found the deep poop decks filled with PDZ cuts way down on the work and smell, the thread about it is under coop mang.,Poop board convert *warning-graphic/gross poop pictures*. There are great pics of the insides of coops there. You do need the 4 square feet per large fowl inside and 10 SQ outside, 5%- or more in the summer- of ventilation, up above the roosts to remove moist air in winter--that causes frostbite-- and at least 2 windows across from each other for cross ventilation for hot humid summer days, screened with HC. NO chicken wire, use heavy gauge Hardware cloth, or hardware cloth backed with another kind of fencing.. Chicken wire is only for between chicken on chicken contact--use it NO where it can be accessed from outside, a raccoon or about anything else will make short work of it. Sand-which the lightest insulation between two solid boards or the chicken will peck it, I am using the solid blue foam kind mostly to keep the roof cooler in summer time--got it free. Roost posts about 4 inches wide, roosts higher than the nests, unless you like poopy eggs. You can use builders sand for your floor and a scooper for the manure, I can't stand the dust so I use the deep litter method, pine flake shavings, leaves etc will all work-no saw dust or cedar shavings. I use plastic waterier so I can add 2 TBS of apple cider vinegar once a week to their water, fresh water daily is a must. Food grade Diamantous earth to the coop floor/nest boxes weekly and sevin dust under the litter every other week, everyday we sprinkle sunflower seeds so the girls turn things under, this winter I'll switch to scratch feed-too warming for summer weather--check out the kitchen trim section-I feed leftovers and peeling of things. There are all sorts of homemade feeders and waterier all over the site, easy to make. I found my tube feeder used on craig's list, great place to buy or find lots of chicken stuff. Do make room for a fan, in the 106* heat with all the open space, frozen treats- we had no deaths, Friends lost a very expensive chicken to the heat. Do not add heat for grown birds, they tolerate winter much easier, as long as there is proper ventilation and no drafts--a handful of scratch throw in a night will help keep them warm--it's like candy so not too much, if you get them used to added heat and your power goes out then you can have a serious problem in freezing temperatures. Read, read--it's helped me a lot--the old timers thread is a excellent source too.
 
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Hello all,

I am in Knoxville area, and very new to backyard chickens. I am in the process of working up plans for the coop and run. I have been reading lots of wonderful posts that have given me some great ideas. Some questions are:

~Insulating the coop for winters?
~Using sand in the run? ~~ How does this do during our winters when the ground freezes?
~Can a coop be too big? ~~I am looking at 3-4 sq ft. per chicken and can only have up to 6 hens.


Thank you a head of time for reading this. I have tried to wade though all the posts on the site, but haven't found answers to these yet.
Boy..you opened up a can of worms, LOL
But I'll keep it short :)

**We don't get cold enough here in TN. to worry with insulating coops....although you would not hurt anything at all if you wanted to

**I switched over to sand in the "coop" about March I think. At 1st I thought it was the greatest thing since sliced bread!!!! But here are the issues I encountered.
1. I missed the smell of pine if that makes any sense?
2. It was super easy to keep clean if you did it every day religiously, but skip one day and your in trouble...skip two days and you will be cursing like a sailor ;)
3. at first it was much cleaner than pine and ohhhh so pretty after a raking, but then I noticed more and more dust! especially if I let them run out of food and they scratched around to clean up what was in the sand.
SO I finally went to a hybrid system. I had to go to a big long double roost due to increasing my flock and since I off-set the upper and lower roosts by 18 inches, that meant I needed about a 30 inch wide poop board. So what I did was just put a 2x6 on the floor 30 some odd inches out from the wall and filled that area with sand. Sand or sand mixed with PDZ makes a great poop board filler. Poop dries within minutes and near zero smell. Just scoop every morning with a jumbo kitty litter scoop. The rest of the coop went back to pine flakes. I have never covered the entire run in sand. I fill the half dozen dug outs that the hens make in the summer to keep cool with sand so they can dust bathe and have natural grit available. It is important to use what they call either river sand or rough construction sand or it will compact and be like concrete. all the different sized sand and pebbles in the rough stuff keeps it from compacting very hard.

** No, a coop can not be too big. The golden rule has already been mentioned and you can certainly get by with it. But since you asked...you get my opinion, LOL
5 sq.ft per bird with a minimum of 32 sq. ft (even if you only had one bird) that is raw floor space as your planning your building. That way you have enough room for feeders, waters, roosts, laying boxes, etc. If it happens to get super cold a few days and they are stuck in the coop...or if you go on vacation and your chicken sitter neglects to let them out they can get by a couple days. So for your six hens I would do a minimum of 4x8 (easier to figure 4x8 sheets when your building) any bigger than that is a bonus. Can they survive in a lot less? Sure they can..been happening for hundreds of years. But for things like "stinky poo", mites, lice,and other parasites, and spreading of viral or bacterial contagions, etc...bigger is always better.
As far as run space goes...same thing. Lay out a rope or water hose in an 8x8 square in the yard. Now imagine 6 chickens in that space as a run. If you stick to the 10 sq.ft. per bird run standard..that is what you will have. (actually that would be 10 and 2/3 per bird). But when you visualize it like that with the rope it is frightening to imagine 6 hens in that for a run. So I say a minimum of 15 per bird in the run and that is only if they can free range the yard at least 3 times a week for at least a couple hours at a time. If they could "never" get out of the run to free range, then I would say people need a hundred sq.ft. per bird in the run.
 
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PS...as far a ventilation, amenfarm hit it on the head. It is difficult for people to imagine that by letting cold air in, that you are not doing harm to the chickens. But///// moisture combined with cold is what frost bites. Get rid of the moisture (even at the cost of letting some heat out) and they will be much happier and much less frost bit. I'll use my coop as an example. I have a 10x20 building that the back 2/3 is used for anyone over 6 weeks. The front is storage and brooder land. I have a large front door that stays open 10 months out of the year, a 6' wide french door in back that stays open 10 months out of the year, a 30x30 window screened with 1/2" hardware cloth, and 2 roof vents that never, ever, ever close (getting ready to be three). You def. need some always open ventilation. The window will be shut in the winter so I dont cross draft them in the cold, but both doors will be open sunrise to sunset even on really cold days. I am a big fan of roof vents for always open ventilation because the natural convection carries up the moisture and right outside it goes. Also helps the smell in August
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Anyone looking to build a pond and want to buy some pond stuff? It's lightly used.... For like 2 months... I'm apparently not on top of it enough, and just havn't had the time nor the will power to go out and clean it, I figured I'd offer it to my BYC friends before trying to sale it on CL. I have a liner (10x13 feet I think), a pump (one of the ultra violet type), ROCKS, a little fountain turtle, tubing, 6 fish, a few plants, a few bags of unopened pond pebble, a few hundred pounds of already been opened pond pebble.... I spent more than $400 on the set-up and I'm thinking it's not my thing! If you want anything in particular might sale stuff seperately, can't sale pump/liner until everything else is gone. If you buy all the stuff the rock is pretty much free for the price I'm asking. Just send me a PM.
 
Thank you all for the great information! I have been drawing up various plans for the coop and run, and the numbers you have shared has helped me with dimensions a lot. I am working this all on a very tight budget so I'm getting a bit creative with what I can build with and what size I will need to start with. I don't plan on getting chicks until closer to spring time, I think
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, I have some time to build up the items I will need.


As luck has it I will be able to get pallets (free), cull wood, and other items from a local Lowe's
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. My oldest son works there so this will help quite a bit.


I may be able to just get the 100 sq ft. per bird into my run plan. I am fearful that the wildlife would get at my chickens if they free-ranged without cover. This came to mind this morning as I was watching the hawks watch me cleaning in the backyard this morning, and I know the fox, raccoons, coyote, and others were checking it all out as well.

Again thank you all.
 
not sure where you are in knox. but kubota has free palletts some 10 feet long haul em off just ask. good wood also not crap.
 
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