Electric fencer ?

Pat explained it very well. I am using a five wire fence with three hot and two ground because we live in a sandy area and during dry times the ground make not be very good. Also I am trying to deter bears and I need to be sure they always get the shocking message.
 
Pat done a pretty good job.

One thing that I would add or ask. I assume you are actually going to have a containment fence, welded wire, chicken wire, hardware cloth wire and the elctric fence will be used to back - up or add a defensive measure to your coop?

I have five conductors-- all charged wires. I grounded the containment fence and used a six foot ground rod. So this is how it works. On a moist damp morning/night Mr Coon (substitute dog, cat, possum, skunk, mink as needed) walks up to my chicken yard, he sees the wire, so he sticks out his nose and because he is standing on earth he is delivered a zap, right to the nose/paw/booty whatever. Now on those hot summer days when it hasn't rained in a week or two the ground is dry, conductance is low, so Mr Coon standing on earth is no longer delivered a sure shot. But if Mr Coon walks up sniffs the wire with no zap, and then decides that he will climb/dig/ tear the fence as soon as he touches a charged wire and the containment fence, he is delivered a zap.

The one I use on my coop/run is a small nonpulsing A/C unit, trust me when it hits you, you ain't going to ignore it. Total length of charged wire is maybe 100yds. Plus it is grounded very well.

I have a solar charger that I use to contain horses, Pat is correct in saying that the estimate given is for PERFECT conditions. Mine is rated for 3 miles, but I have never exceeded 1/2 mile of charged conductor. However with my horses, they learned very fast and they are very sensitive, and they have plenty to eat on the inside of the fence, so they don't really try to break out. Last year I had one instance of the larger horse going through the electric. I might add that even if they get through the electric they are still contained by a property fence, the electric fence only contains them to the portions of my property they are allowed to graze. Never would I rely on electric fencing to keep them off neighbor's property or road. Any how I was leading the pony with my grand daughter aboard, the larger horse was up by the barn ignoring what was going on. Anyhow I opened the electric gate to allow access to the rest of the property while walking around. When the larger horse noticed he was being left behind/out, he came running (1/4 mile you would have thought he was Seabisquit), and ran right through the flagged charged wire. He gave a pretty good snort, kicking fore and aft, but he hit it hard enough and came on through. Broke the insulated spring handle. I compare it to a human running and jumping through a camp fire. Doesn't hurt but you get a little warm, but you ain't likely to got stand in the camp fire, samething with the fence, he ran through it and got a zap, he went on through, but if he walked up to it and touched it, no way would he stand there leaning against it.
 
I put 3 hot wires around mine,4, 8 and 24 inches up.Got 2 ground rods about 7 feet deep and also grounded containment fence which is turned out about 12 inches at bottom so when whatever is nosing around touchs the hot wire most likely its feet will be on the grounded portion of the fence. Got a pulsing silver streak energizer,it seem pretty potent from the sound of the pop and the length of the spark.
 
Ok .. again thanks everyone for this good information, like I mentioned earlier Fencers are all new too me.
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Here's another question I have:
Part of my electric fence run will be along an existing containment fence, however my barn splits the fence run, so I am assuming that I have to have a continuous run of fence for the electric fencer too work properly. So I will have part of my electric fence freestanding on either T-post, or some form of supports to complete the electric fence run. Others have mentioned using the existing containment fence, and grounding it .. will this work for my situation ? Plus how do I ground my existing containment fence ?

Clint

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How to ground or use the existing containment fence as a ground?

Run a wire from the ground connection on fence charger and connect to containment fence.
 
you dont need a continual loop

the fire risk probably applies to the solar 2, but i never heard of a fire happening.

my dad has seen lightning hit his fence and could see the lightning travel back and forth trying to find a ground (he disconnected it before the storm)

but in all of the chargers he lost never had a fire,

what you need is a lightning suppressor, and maybe a surge protector.

you can maybe use a spring for a lightning suppressor (im going to try this unless somebody gets on here is says it wont work)
 
Plus how do I ground my existing containment fence ?

You don't need to do anything at all to it unless it's mounted on insulators.

It's not necessary for it to be connected to the charger in any manner.

The charger's ground wire ONLY goes to the grounding rods, and any other parts of the fence should be in contact with the earth.

If your soil is sandy and dry, you can connect the ground wires on the fence together, and put extra ground rods around the perimeter, deep enough so they are in moist soil.
Your exisiting fence can be connected the same way

my barn splits the fence run

So does mine in one pasture.
I ran a single hot wire on the wall above the doors to get power to the other side​
 
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You can ground the existing fence/enclosure as long as the ground rods are between the charger and the fence/enclosure connection. Also do not loop the hot wire back to the charger...damage may/probably will result.

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How do you know what charger is powerful enough for your fence? I just ordered 100' of 42" poultry net. Do you need a certain # of joules? (sorry such a dumb q)

Pat
 
Quote:
Not sure exactly what the setup is, but I will try:

Your electric fence does not need to be, indeed arguably *should* not be, a loop. One or two straight-line dead-end fences going out from the charger is TOTALLY FINE. So if the barn interrupts only one side of a 4-sided run, no problemo whatsoever.

If OTOH you have two actually totally-separate runs, one on one side of the barn and another on the opposite side of the barn, the most sensible thing is to run a connection of double-insulated fencewire to link the two. Put it somewhere animals won't chew on it and it won't get run over or tripped on or whatever -- high on the wall or tucked up under the roof overhang would be the usual place. I recommend the double-insulated fencewire because the it takes a lot more accidental abuse and aging before creating a short to your barn's metal siding
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DO NOT use regular household insulated wire, its insulation does not hold up well to fence-type voltages.

Did that make sense?

It is not generally necessary to do anything to ground your existing physical (nonelectrified) fence unless it is an unusual installation -- usually the metal fence mesh is in good contact with soil and often on metal posts. If you are adding an electric wire TO an existing fenc,e make sure you use adequately long standoff insulators, I would recommend the longest ones normally sold (I think they are 4"?)

Good luck, have fun,

Pat
 

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