Feathers not growing back

[Ktewes]

For information and the purpose of sharing.. I'm also in the PNW (at the California/Oregon border).. and know the age of my gold sex link (which is what yours looks like) is 31 months old.. and has NOT had her first molt yet under natural lighting conditions with coop openings pointing north only exception being a small automated popdoor on the east side that allows access to a secure run, all situated under the shade of large Sitka Spruce and Coastal Redwoods. She's also still laying almost everyday. Her flock mates that are the same age but other breeds (EE and Rock) have had or are having their 2nd full molt including not laying.


I feed 20% protein full time with oyster shell available free choice on the side.. none of my birds have ever had issues due to this and if anything they're better off than at lower protein (amino acid) contents.

Thank you for the info! What feed are you giving that’s 20% protein? 31 months and have not done their first full molt? I thought they did it much sooner. I just feel bad that she might be like this the whole winter! So many feathers gone.

 

[Ktewes]

If the entire feather is gone it should start growing back fairly soon. If just a tiny bit of shaft is still there it won't grow back until the molt. Just basic stuff to get out of the way.

Are you sure her buddy isn't plucking the feathers as they start back? From what I see I do not think that is happening but can't rule it out.

Where are you, north or south of the equator? At that age if you are north of the equator she should have molted. South of the equator, not yet. What generally causes the molt is the days getting shorter. What you feed her is not going to affect her molting. Molting is about the feathers falling out so they can regrow. Feed quality is not going to affect them falling out.

Do you have lights on that could be messing her up as far as the days getting shorter. That could be a security light or street light in the vicinity.

I really don’t think her friend is plucking anything out. I have not seen any of that behavior. They do not have any artificial lighting. They have a coop they only use to sleep in and are outside in a pasture the rest of the day.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I really don’t think her friend is plucking anything out. I have not seen any of that behavior. They do not have any artificial lighting. They have a coop they only use to sleep in and are outside in a pasture the rest of the day.

I can't explain it, she should have molted by now. No matter what, when you deal with living animals you can always have exceptions to normal. Even with this.

Good luck!

 

[coach723]

Molt is pretty variable, year to year, and bird to bird. Sometimes some birds may only do a partial molt, some may miss molt one year. Reasons may be unknown, part of it is just whatever the birds body says to do. Birds may molt in the dead of winter, December, January, February, sometimes. I used to have one that molted in April every single year, her entire life. There are "averages" that everyone talks about, but they aren't machines, so stuff happens that isn't average sometimes. There is a huge range of actual normal. She may still molt, time will tell. Stress, moving, feed changes, weather changes, all kinds of things can affect them. As long as she seems healthy otherwise, I would just give her some time, feed her well, let her settle, and wait.

 

[EggSighted4Life]

Thank you for the info! What feed are you giving that’s 20% protein? 31 months and have not done their first full molt? I thought they did it much sooner. I just feel bad that she might be like this the whole winter! So many feathers gone.

Most birds do molt way before 31 months.. I fully believe it's the (possibly poor or is it good) genetics causing the delayed molt. It's my first and only time experiencing that in 13+ years of keeping hundreds of fowl and she's also my first and only commercially bred sex link. As other posters have noted.. what we call average or normal seems to vary widely by individual.

I usually use Purina Flock Raiser, but due to rising cost coupled with diminished income, have recently also been using Dumor starter.

Since learning, about a decade ago, that the only or main difference in "layer" is protein (amino acid levels) and calcium % and also that 16% protein (most common layer feeds) is considered the bare minimum to keep light bodied layers like Leghorn in laying condition at a minimum cost and since making the switch.. all of my birds (mostly dual purpose breeds) . enter molt and come through it stronger (much less change in behavior and self isolation) than when I used "layer", as they already have more nutrients on board rather than trying to play catch up once molt has begun. For the industry that rotates their birds out and keeps them under tightly confined and controlled conditions, making $ is their bottom line. For me where weather changes, being able to fight off parasites and having stronger immune systems matters.. and while many flocks do fine and some even have longevity using 16% protein "layer", I definitely notice the difference. Calcium source is always available, free choice.

If you are happy with the 19% protein feed, it's what's available in your location, and your birds seem to like it, I'd not worry about switching.

My opinion and experience coupled with research say that it should be sufficient and also will not cause any harm. Reducing protein or nutrients too far, either by feeding scratch "to keep warm" (myth) or other low nutrient snacks/treats, on the other hand *may* cause more issues including lower immunity, torticollis (commonly called wry neck), and fatty liver hemorhagic disease. Too much excess protein (WAY more than what's being suggested) or excess calcium fed (to non layers regarding the calcium) LONG term can cause (different types of) gout, kidney failure, and even death.. noting that in these last statements there's almost always a (unseen and unknown) genetic predisposition at play. Many breeder and show formula rations come in at 22% protein.. which was shown in studies I've read to give the highest hatch rates. Plus feathers are made from 90% protein and its amino acids. I once fed 30% protein turkey starter for a period of about 6 months.. it reduced my hatch rates but did not yet even at that level cause any of the conditions noted for excess consumption. Still with anything.. please always do what makes sense to YOU!

If you're worried about her for winter, I'll admit I would probably be uncomfortable for her as well.. and desire more than just the saddle ideas (which are worth considering), maybe @azygous will share her sweater or other ideas?

Best wishes to you both!

 

[azygous]

Sweaters for chickens are dangerous due to the danger of unraveling of the yarn presenting a choking hazard. Saddle coverings are of limited value in conserving a hen's body heat. Chickens lose relatively little heat through the back while most of their heat loss would occur from under the wing pits and breast area where the blood supply is much closer to the surface. However, these areas are not usually exposed during sleep when heat loss is greater than during the day when a chicken is consuming calories.

Proper caloric and water intake is the most efficient way of ensuring minimal loss of body heat during extreme cold.