Feeding my new goats question

Quote:
They can't OD on hay, so keep it in front of them
wink.png
free choice. Just know they're going to waste a lot of it, so you might want to do several small meals rather than one big one.
 
Quote:
The goats we raise today are SO FAR from the goats raised for "thousands and thousands of years". And...I choked on my coffee when I read that they're hard to kill. COMMON GOAT MYTH! A goat will die at the snap of your fingers with no warning, and leave you wondering what just happened.

People, having animals is a luxury. It isn't about finding the cheapest way to keep them. The "expensive" feeds save you so much money in the long run...in terms of healthier animals which live longer, thrive better and are less likely to succumb to deficiencies. Buy the best you can afford, not the cheapest you can find.

Back to the OP - 10% is too low for growing goats. I recommend 16% minimum. Avoid textured (sweet) feeds like they're poison (because they ARE to male goats). Purina Show Goat includes AC in the mix, so it is the ideal feed choice for a wether. Offer LOOSE minerals (NOT a block) 24/4.

Once your boys are done growing, you will likely be able to take them off the grain and only feed alfalfa hay to keep them fat and happy.

I have been reading how too much protien can cause stones in older animals....like in alfalfa or feed. So for growing a 16% goat pellet. And loose goat minerals. Grass hay? I have been told ACV in water to help with stones and baking soda. So I should feed them a 16% goat pellet, loose minerals....and alfalfa or grass hay now? When they are done growing...which is? They should get alfalfa hay and loose minerals only. What about the protein levels? Goats are the most controversal animalas to feed:/!
 
I am feeding mine a mixture of Show Goat chow, dehydrated beet pulp, grain mixture and black oil sunflower seeds. I will get the mixture rate for you. I also have loose minerals available and free feed hay. I don't feed alphalfa mixed hay because they pick out the good stuff and waste the rest. Clean water a must and then you can give them table scraps as treats. They love watermellon.
Good luck to you and be careful goats are like potatoe chips.....you can't just have 1...2......3.......4......
big_smile.png
 
I have to agree with helmstead...Goats do seem to get sick for no good reason but often it can be attributed to loving them too much (too many treats). Goats are most like deer in the wild, they thrive on browse and good pasture.

Obviously if you don't have pasture available (and you want to save your rose bushes) you'll need to provide some other forage, AKA- hay. For your wethers, a good grass hay should be fine. I'm not familiar with coastal hay and its nutrient content but if you're concerned you could always have it tested. As long as they're still growing, you can give them a little concentrate as a supplement but I, too would stick to the higher protein- 16-18% It's really a balance depending on what quality hay you have. Higher protein hay means lower protein concentrate.

It is very important to always have the loose mineral available, one with copper. I've never heard of copper poisoning in goats, that's more common with sheep. Most worry about copper deficiency.

Here's a picture of my girls and their pasture early in the spring:
IMG_1855-1.jpg


This is all they get for the summer, along with free-choice mineral.

Here's a picture of an easy-to-make mineral feeder that will greatly reduce waste:
PVC_Mineral_Feeder-175x450.jpg
 
Quote:
The goats we raise today are SO FAR from the goats raised for "thousands and thousands of years". And...I choked on my coffee when I read that they're hard to kill. COMMON GOAT MYTH! A goat will die at the snap of your fingers with no warning, and leave you wondering what just happened.

People, having animals is a luxury. It isn't about finding the cheapest way to keep them. The "expensive" feeds save you so much money in the long run...in terms of healthier animals which live longer, thrive better and are less likely to succumb to deficiencies. Buy the best you can afford, not the cheapest you can find.

Back to the OP - 10% is too low for growing goats. I recommend 16% minimum. Avoid textured (sweet) feeds like they're poison (because they ARE to male goats). Purina Show Goat includes AC in the mix, so it is the ideal feed choice for a wether. Offer LOOSE minerals (NOT a block) 24/7.

Once your boys are done growing, you will likely be able to take them off the grain and only feed alfalfa hay to keep them fat and happy.

As someone who has been raising animals for over 30 years, and who has yet to have one drop dead for lack of the fancy, expensive feeds,I was simply attempting to reassure the individual, that while the goats need adequate nutrition, it is not necessary to fill them full of all the chemicals that are found in the higher priced feeds that are often foisted on the less experienced owners by the feed stores. Simplicity, and earnest stewardship of our animals is what is required, not supplements of man made origins that are doing God knows what to our animals and ourselves. I respectfully disagree with you. The young goats need clean water, simple, whole grains in the morning and in the evening, and a good flake of hay. I feed a scoop of mixed corn and oats in the morning with a flake of alfalfa, and a scoop in the evening. I also provide a salt lick and limited treats of organic greens, and I dose with probiotics when I notice any changes in their feces. She should also know that the goats need their hooves trimmed about every 3 months, to watch out for parasites, and to be aware that goats are very curious animals that will get into anything, and that changes in the feces is the best way to notice if the goat is having some issue. My goats are thriving, as are the goats of my friends on the Rez, none of whom feed any of the expensive goat chows or supplements, just the basic minerals and a salt lick and what they graze with some corn in winter, and it has worked for the Navaho and Hopi for thousands of years.
 
Quote:
It's not the protein that causes UC, it's the calcuim to phosphorus ratio. ACV and soda won't help to keep UC away, either - that's intended for bloat prevention and gut flora. I've heard too many bad things about soda feeding...so I don't do that. Honestly I don't know if ACV is a great idea all the time, either, because I don't know it's effect on the rumen bacteria. If you want to include alfalfa hay, you might choose pellets over loose hay because of waste. And yep, when they're older...from what I understand the wethers stay fat easily and you shouldn't need a grain for them - or if you do it will be minimal. The alfalfa pellets and grass hay should be sufficient along with minerals to keep them happy in later life. I have breeding bucks, and they do require grain to stay in good weight.

Yup, ask how to feed a goat and you'll get a thousand answers. The good news is, goat ownership in the US is growing and more research is being done yearly on their husbandry needs.
 
Ok! I think Im gonna go with a 16% goat pellet, loose goat minerals, burmuda grass hay. The feed and minerals both have ammonium chloride. Hopefully the ratios will be ok for them. I just want to give them a small amount of fee every morning so they have something to look forward to each day. 1/4 cup in the morning should be ok? The mineral Im looking at says to top dress so the goats get what they need each day or carefully monitor intake if feeding free choice...Its a manna pro goat mineral.
 
With my kids, the rule of thumb is 1/2 cup morning and evening. Some need more, some less. Study body scoring goats and that will help you determine if what you're feeding is sufficient.
 
I didn't get a chance to read all of the other posts, but I feed my goats DC Finisher from Tractor Supply part of the year, it has an anticocci and also has the ammonium chloride in it for urinary tract health. The rest of the time I use Caprine Challenger also from Tractor Supply and make sure any boys get ammonium chloride mixed in. And a good supply of quality hay, with a goat block or loose minerals free choice. A feed with no copper is a serious issue, goats require the copper for red blood cell production. That no copper feed is probably rated for sheep which get copper toxicity.

Edited to add, NOOOO alfalfa for wethers. Too much calcium which causes urinary stones. A straight Orchard Grass mix is perfect free choice all the time.
 
Last edited:

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom