It was no problem really. I had been meaning to make that list to put on my budding website anyway, and really it's a good checklist to look at before going to the feedstore.
On the ingredients, Alucoat or Alushield is an aerosol wound dressing that you spray on top of your antiseptics both to dry the area, keep the wound clean and shielded, and prevent a certain amount of flies. I had heard alot about it, but hadn't had a chance to use it until this weekend when my mare cut herself up badly and had to be sent home with some.
Having used it a few days now, I feel it's absolutely brilliant! The old product I used to use was Furox (a nitrofurazone spray) but they don't make it any more (and who knows if they ever will again). The beauty of it was that, like this, it sprayed on wet but dried instantly to a powder. That helps absorb seepage, prevent flies from being attracted to goop, etc. This product really keeps the dirt out.
Ivermectin drop on is actually pour-on. It's a cattle product for worming via blood by dropping drops on the skin where it absorbs into them very very quickly. Most parasites that are in the body, and any that are external that take the blood, are killed quickly by it. Ivomec is the main brand, but I prefer generic for the price - Aspen is the brand I bought last time 250 ml for $14. It takes 1-5 drops per bird (on the skin) to worm with. The only thing about it is that you really should worm with a weaker wormer first - like Wazine - and then on the 2 week repeat use ivermectin> Then I use it 2x's yearly. Using the weaker wormer first kills part of the worms, roundworms, but not all. That way the bird isn't overcome by a heavy load of dead worms trying to leave the body all at once. All wormers usually require a 2 week withdrawal time (no meat, no eggs). Ivomec is labeled for 14 day with drawal in cattle, I'd assume the same in chickens although I feel the eggs are safe for home use. But with worms, I'm thinking that dead worms shed through the cloaca - I would want to wait 2 weeks to let them all pass with ANY wormer.
Penicillin G Procaine (or other penicillin injectable) is an antibiotic meant for a few respiratory illness, but is best for skin-type lesions, wounds, infections. I keep it on hand in case I have an animal attack or a big wound. It's good for secondary skin infections if you have something come up from Pox, etc - a sore gone bad. Pen G Procaine only needs to be used every other day because of its strength. There's some talk about Pen G less effective because it's every other day, and Pen being better - but there's sometimes a practical consideration for people who are squeamish about shots and prefer every other day rather than daily. So it's a toss up. Here, Pen G is the one I can get readily at the feedstore where other Pen's I can't a s often.
LS50 is a strong antibiotic. It's actually Lincomycin and Spectinomycin put together. Lincomycin has long been hailed by poultrymen and livestock men alike as being quite an effective drug. The spectinomycin is one of the most effective drug at the moment for Mycoplasma disease. It's also effective against coliform bacteria (E. coli, etc diarrhea type illnesses not attributed to cocci). It can be used as a water solution.
Corid and Sulmet are both coccidiocides. Corid is amprolium, the same medication in medicated chick starter, but in a "-cide" strength rather than "-stat". It's not an antibiotic, only an anti-coccidial. Sulmet is also a coccidiostat, but also has antibiotic action because it's a sulfamide drug. It's harder on the bird but more broad spectrum, including activity against E. coli if you have older birds that are showing vague symptoms. It's also useful against FC (fowl cholera).
Tylan can be used in place of LS50, and for FC it can be used in place of Sulmet. In fact I recommend Tylan but only injectable over Sulmet for Fowl Cholera, but not everyone feels comfortable with injections. And then again, sometimes people can't really tell if they have fowl Cholera or Pasteurella instead (in which case I'd go back to Sulmet which is labeled for Pasteurella). I wouldn't recommend the waterbased Tylan because of the way it works in poultry it's not as effective as injectable. I know quite a few poultry men and women who feel that way from experience. If I'm going to use something like that, i don't want ANY chance of less effect and thus possible resistance.
On the syringes and needles, you can usually get those at feedstores. The larger syringes often come without needles. (Many good feedstores sell separate needles so you can pick what you need). Few syringes come with attached needles. Thankfully. I use the big syringes for flushing out wounds vigorously. That gets dirt out, makes sure that iodine/water solution is pushed way into every crevice. It's the way the vets taught me to irrigate wounds.
The 3 cc's often come with something like a 22-25 gauge needle (for cat/dog use) that can be screwed off. If I'm using Penicillin, I take off the smaller needle and replace it with a 16g needle which is thicker. Pen is large particles of medicine in solution and very thick when properly refrigerated. In order to make sure I get particles AND solution (not just liquid) , use a larger syringe. Also makes it easier to inject.
And yes, Wazine does only kill roundworms - but it's necessary in a flock. You only "withdraw" for 14 days with it - it's quite safe. Don't eat meat and eggs for 2 weeks after using. That's all wormers, really.
When you do worm, I do recommend Wazine first. They won't be laying or eaten for 2 weeks. Roundworms are the most common worm of the barnyard (and the easiest of which to get a heavy infestation). So you want to get those down first. Then I wouldn't use ivermectin til says 5 months, just before laying. Honestly I probably wouldn't worm any babies until three months here. But I keep babies on wire for a while, not many cases of worms particularly because of my worming program (wazine/ivermectin first, at three-four months, then ivermectin or levamisole twice yearly thereafter).
By the way, if you're shopping, try the dollar store for the gauze, hydrogen peroxide, popsicle sticks or tongue depressors, etc. And while you're at Walmart, ask them for a couple of free paint stirring sticks.
ON my list, I've taken a while to build it up. It's too expensive to do all at once. Buy buying something here, a med next month, an ointment on the next feed run, etc has helped to build up a collection of stuff that has served me from everything from a small cut, to fully broken goose legs, to dog mauls. There has to be SOME relief from the stress when you have an ill bird. Having the feeling of at least some control ("I have something for that!") is quite a good sensation.
Plus, in my experience, chickens and horses read calendars. They see when the holiday is, and then they get sick after 5 o'clock on the day before. Particularly on big holidays when NO one is open!
For example, 5:30 p.m. July 3rd, my mare is dreadfully injured. No vets open, no feedstores open. yay. The med cabinet served me well til my vet would come out for me the next day.
They ALWAYS know, and I hate feeling like I can't do anything.
On the ingredients, Alucoat or Alushield is an aerosol wound dressing that you spray on top of your antiseptics both to dry the area, keep the wound clean and shielded, and prevent a certain amount of flies. I had heard alot about it, but hadn't had a chance to use it until this weekend when my mare cut herself up badly and had to be sent home with some.
Having used it a few days now, I feel it's absolutely brilliant! The old product I used to use was Furox (a nitrofurazone spray) but they don't make it any more (and who knows if they ever will again). The beauty of it was that, like this, it sprayed on wet but dried instantly to a powder. That helps absorb seepage, prevent flies from being attracted to goop, etc. This product really keeps the dirt out.
Ivermectin drop on is actually pour-on. It's a cattle product for worming via blood by dropping drops on the skin where it absorbs into them very very quickly. Most parasites that are in the body, and any that are external that take the blood, are killed quickly by it. Ivomec is the main brand, but I prefer generic for the price - Aspen is the brand I bought last time 250 ml for $14. It takes 1-5 drops per bird (on the skin) to worm with. The only thing about it is that you really should worm with a weaker wormer first - like Wazine - and then on the 2 week repeat use ivermectin> Then I use it 2x's yearly. Using the weaker wormer first kills part of the worms, roundworms, but not all. That way the bird isn't overcome by a heavy load of dead worms trying to leave the body all at once. All wormers usually require a 2 week withdrawal time (no meat, no eggs). Ivomec is labeled for 14 day with drawal in cattle, I'd assume the same in chickens although I feel the eggs are safe for home use. But with worms, I'm thinking that dead worms shed through the cloaca - I would want to wait 2 weeks to let them all pass with ANY wormer.
Penicillin G Procaine (or other penicillin injectable) is an antibiotic meant for a few respiratory illness, but is best for skin-type lesions, wounds, infections. I keep it on hand in case I have an animal attack or a big wound. It's good for secondary skin infections if you have something come up from Pox, etc - a sore gone bad. Pen G Procaine only needs to be used every other day because of its strength. There's some talk about Pen G less effective because it's every other day, and Pen being better - but there's sometimes a practical consideration for people who are squeamish about shots and prefer every other day rather than daily. So it's a toss up. Here, Pen G is the one I can get readily at the feedstore where other Pen's I can't a s often.
LS50 is a strong antibiotic. It's actually Lincomycin and Spectinomycin put together. Lincomycin has long been hailed by poultrymen and livestock men alike as being quite an effective drug. The spectinomycin is one of the most effective drug at the moment for Mycoplasma disease. It's also effective against coliform bacteria (E. coli, etc diarrhea type illnesses not attributed to cocci). It can be used as a water solution.
Corid and Sulmet are both coccidiocides. Corid is amprolium, the same medication in medicated chick starter, but in a "-cide" strength rather than "-stat". It's not an antibiotic, only an anti-coccidial. Sulmet is also a coccidiostat, but also has antibiotic action because it's a sulfamide drug. It's harder on the bird but more broad spectrum, including activity against E. coli if you have older birds that are showing vague symptoms. It's also useful against FC (fowl cholera).
Tylan can be used in place of LS50, and for FC it can be used in place of Sulmet. In fact I recommend Tylan but only injectable over Sulmet for Fowl Cholera, but not everyone feels comfortable with injections. And then again, sometimes people can't really tell if they have fowl Cholera or Pasteurella instead (in which case I'd go back to Sulmet which is labeled for Pasteurella). I wouldn't recommend the waterbased Tylan because of the way it works in poultry it's not as effective as injectable. I know quite a few poultry men and women who feel that way from experience. If I'm going to use something like that, i don't want ANY chance of less effect and thus possible resistance.
On the syringes and needles, you can usually get those at feedstores. The larger syringes often come without needles. (Many good feedstores sell separate needles so you can pick what you need). Few syringes come with attached needles. Thankfully. I use the big syringes for flushing out wounds vigorously. That gets dirt out, makes sure that iodine/water solution is pushed way into every crevice. It's the way the vets taught me to irrigate wounds.
The 3 cc's often come with something like a 22-25 gauge needle (for cat/dog use) that can be screwed off. If I'm using Penicillin, I take off the smaller needle and replace it with a 16g needle which is thicker. Pen is large particles of medicine in solution and very thick when properly refrigerated. In order to make sure I get particles AND solution (not just liquid) , use a larger syringe. Also makes it easier to inject.
And yes, Wazine does only kill roundworms - but it's necessary in a flock. You only "withdraw" for 14 days with it - it's quite safe. Don't eat meat and eggs for 2 weeks after using. That's all wormers, really.
When you do worm, I do recommend Wazine first. They won't be laying or eaten for 2 weeks. Roundworms are the most common worm of the barnyard (and the easiest of which to get a heavy infestation). So you want to get those down first. Then I wouldn't use ivermectin til says 5 months, just before laying. Honestly I probably wouldn't worm any babies until three months here. But I keep babies on wire for a while, not many cases of worms particularly because of my worming program (wazine/ivermectin first, at three-four months, then ivermectin or levamisole twice yearly thereafter).
By the way, if you're shopping, try the dollar store for the gauze, hydrogen peroxide, popsicle sticks or tongue depressors, etc. And while you're at Walmart, ask them for a couple of free paint stirring sticks.
ON my list, I've taken a while to build it up. It's too expensive to do all at once. Buy buying something here, a med next month, an ointment on the next feed run, etc has helped to build up a collection of stuff that has served me from everything from a small cut, to fully broken goose legs, to dog mauls. There has to be SOME relief from the stress when you have an ill bird. Having the feeling of at least some control ("I have something for that!") is quite a good sensation.
Plus, in my experience, chickens and horses read calendars. They see when the holiday is, and then they get sick after 5 o'clock on the day before. Particularly on big holidays when NO one is open!
They ALWAYS know, and I hate feeling like I can't do anything.
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