First Timers Coop Design from Scratch

[NewAustralorpMom]

Hi!!

Super excited that we've ordered our first batch of chicks! Our expected delivery is the last week of May. We live in Ontario, Canada and are trying to ensure our coop build has everything we'll need. We've been doing lots of research online and there's SO much information to sift through. We've started designing our coop but have lots of questions.

We've ordered 20 Black Australorp day old pullets (80% accuracy in sexing) and one cockerel with the hope of getting an extra accidental cockerel which would leave us with 19 hens and 2 roos. We're planning a raised coop, between 3 and 4 feet off the ground, that's 8x12 feet with an enclosed run (with a roof) that will enclose under the coop plus an additional 8x12 full height run. This will leave them with 96sqft inside and 192sqft of safe outdoor space. We hope to free-range them during the day and when there's not too much snow on the property and if predation doesn't become a big issue.

We're thinking the interior of the coop will be 3.5ft from floor to ceiling at it's lowest point (roof slanted towards the back) and read that bigger birds should have lower roosts so we're planning the roosts 12 inches off the floor of the coop and nesting boxes at floor level inside the coop. We're a bit worried about draftiness when the birds are roosting with such a low ceiling inside the coop. With good cross ventilation at the top of the coop, will it be too drafty for the birds? Our weather here gets pretty cold at night in the winter (-20C or -4F) and sometimes colder and windy. The gable vents on the west side where most of our wind comes from will be sheltered by the roof of the run and we don't plan on putting any venting that can't be closed at roost level. During the winter we also plan to turn the outside run into a bit of a sunroom using clear plastic vapor barrier (with adequate space for venting obviously). The coop will have windows and additional venting options to open up for the summer to ensure it doesn't get too hot.

We're planning three eight-foot roosts at the end of the coop against the opposite wall from the door, all three 12 inches off the floor. How much space between the roosts is appropriate? (thinking each roost will be 4 inches wide) We're planning on having a pull-out drawer under the roosts, how far past the roosts should the drawer extend? Would 12 inches beyond the roosts be adequate to catch all the night poops?

Also, is there any rule about having nesting boxes on the same wall as their door? The current plan is to have the boxes flank the door on either side. This would give us access from inside the run making it easier to collect eggs in the winter. This location for the nesting boxes also ensures that the light from the windows in the coop doesn't leave the nesting boxes too bright.

When we get the plans all drawn up I can post pics too so that any details I'm missing will be more clear.

I might be overthinking this a bit, but any tips anyone has about things you wish you'd done or things a first-timer should know are all welcomed!! I'm happy to be here and hope to learn loads from you fine folks!!

Thanks!!!

 

[ChickenCanoe]

I've had lots of big breeds from Jersey Giants, Australorps, Cochins, etc.. I don't think any of them would have been happy with a roost 12" above the floor. Many of them would try to go as high into the rafters as possible. In some cases, that was about 10' in the air.
Also, the roosts need to be significantly higher than the nests to discourage sleeping in nests.
The design sounds good but I think you will quickly be sorry you had so little head room. It is a bummer stooping in the coop for cleaning and handling birds.
I wouldn't elevate the coop so high. You would need a ladder or stairway to go inside. All but one of my coops are elevated but only 18-24".
Make sure, for your birds' health, that you have even more ventilation than you think you need. Plenty of oxygen/fresh air will prevent most respiratory problems. Don't worry about cold. Worry about bad air.
Situate the coop in the shade. Chickens suffer more from heat than cold.

 

[DobieLover]

Don't do it!
A raised coop with the height you are thinking about with be a NIGHTMARE to maintain. And working with the chickens under those conditions... I don't even want to think about it. I've had a raised floor coop and a walk-in style. I would never in my life recommend a raised floor coop for anyone. You also have to consider that the square footage under that coop will be largely inaccessible and next to impossible to clean.

Your overall dimensions are too small. Especially with the desire to have the flock managed by 2 roosters.

I would put the coop on the ground, walk-in style. If you have a shed you can convert, better still. The coop square footage is good. It's the run that is too small. I'd go closer to 8x24.

In your climate, I would build a solid roofed walk-in style run that is totally predator proof that you can winterize. Predators are inevitable. By building the run truly predator proof, you never have to close the pop door. The birds come off the roost first thing in the morning and out to the run they go... unless it's winter. Then they wander in and out and tend to loiter in the coop more where they can stay warmer in the coop litter.

I have poop boards under my roosts that extend out 12" on both sides. My roosts run U-shaped around the coop. It works great.

Being in Ontario, I would also recommend you run a circuit out to the coop if you are familiar with basic wiring. You will never regret having it for running water heaters and nest box heaters to keep your winter eggs from freezing. Not to mention being able to turn on a light to see when you are doing regular health checks on your flock.

This coop and run house 27 birds that include 2 roosters. The coop is 8x12 and the run is 12x28 with a 4x8 job off the back that has a dust bath area.

 

[Jimbobob08]

I'm from sudbury ontario. I have a raised (think 32")8x16 coop. The walls are 4' high. Roof 20" raise over 4' span. King post I believe it's called rafter style. I have two ladders and the horizontal rafters are the roosts, with a few extra deck boards going the 16' direction on top of the horizontal rafter 2x4's. This makes for a TON of roost space.The exterior walls on ends of building are a perfect 4x8 and the trusses are open and covered with hardware cloth for extra ventilation, in winter they're covered with a piece of plexiglas to stop the draft but allow light.

I am 33 years old, 5'10" and have absolutely no issues cleaning out this coop. I do have two large (36" I think they're) swing doors spaced evenly,
going down one of the 16' walls for "clean out", but found it easier to unscrew the plywood from the end 4x8 wall and back a dump trailer in right to that opening. I sit inside on a 5gallon pale and work my way from the front to the back of the coop. I actually did the entire deep bed clean out yesterday by myself in 5ish hours and filled the dual axle dump trailer.

The layer boxes are extra to the 8x16 size and are on the opposite 16' wall of the "clean out" swing doors.

This is my 3rd year with this coop and regret very little. Although I am still making improvements, like today I purchased steel for the roof which I will begin momentarily.

Jim

 

[Ridgerunner]

Lots of different opinions already and this is from three people that tend to agree a lot. It can be hard to sort through the information. And pay close attention to Jimbo's post. I would not want to clean inside the coop that way but I'm a lot older.

I think I understand why you want it raised. It's a lot of protected area. Your protection needs to be both for snow and a cold wind. Mine will not go out if a cold breeze is blasting through. I think I understand why you want it raised enough to be able to access under there, at least with a rake. Typically the raised coops are smaller, 8' is a long way to reach under there, especially if you need to clean under there. With your space I think you will need to clean, especially in winter when they cannot free range..

My personal preference is a ground level coop with a dirt floor, maybe because that is what I'm more used to. Many people put floors in theirs, some people elevate them. You can make it work but I'm not sure it's going to be that convenient for you.

I strongly believe you need to be able to stand up in your coop, whether you elevate it or not. I don't know how steep your roof will be or the elevation you are planning for that front wall but I think you are heading for disappointment unless you raise that short wall. And you need to be able to stand up in the run.

That coop is a pretty good size but in winter I think you will need an area where they can get outside even if a blizzard is blasting through. It's like you are building a solid coop and a separate shelter outside that is wind and snow proof. I don't think it has to be that big, the main thing is that it gives a chicken being picked on a place to go to to get away from the bully. But as always, the more room the better.

Not sure why you want two roosters? I generally suggest you keep as few as you can and still meet your goals. It's often less complicated that way. But I don't know your goals.

You said your nests would be floor level. Does that consider the height of the bedding? How tall are your nests? Will those 12" high roosts be noticeably higher? I'm assuming the nests are inside the coop. The actual height of the roosts doesn't bother me but the difference to the top of the nests does. And not in a direct breeze in winter with your winter ventilation.

There is no rule on which wall the nests need to be. As far as I'm concerned just make it convenient for you. The chickens will adjust to whatever you do.

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

You guys are all AWESOME!

The feedback is excellent! There are some elements of the coop design that I didn't get too far into because my post was already getting pretty long. I'll describe as much as I can and be as clear as I can be but I'll post design pics for sure as soon as they're done. Hubby is diligently working on them right now. He's a super handyman who can build, do electrical, plumbing and anything else we need so bring on the challenging suggestions!!

- ChickenCanoe, I read that bigger birds are safer on lower roosts in that it prevents leg issues jumping down off of them. We're still trying to work out roof height vs nest height vs roost height so your input is awesome!

- DobieLover, Thanks so much! Love the pics. I'm a bit hesitant about not being able to walk into the coop, I won't lie. The idea with the raised coop is to have lift doors on both 12ft sides under the coop for access for cleaning. Having it 4ft off the ground will also allow for greater ease in cleaning. The entire outside run will be made to be predator-proof. It looks like the outside run in your coop mirrors what we plan to do with the exception of the under coop area. Cleaning the inside of the coop - ok, here's our plan......the back 12 foot wall will have two doors opening the full width of the coop, the front will have a door that opens flat down and will allow us to bring the tractor bucket right up to the coop. My hope is to be able to access the inside of the coop from the big back doors and push litter out into the tractor bucket by the back door. We're both young and very able-bodied and hopefully, the rear access into the coop will be sufficient for full access. We're still playing with the plan on paper and adjusting heights and access as we go. I understand that a walk is probably ideal but I'm considering the size of the footprint of the coop too.....please keep the suggestions coming. We're trying to problem solve as we plan and aren't against any ideas at this point. Thank you so much!

Jimbo - Thank you! It sounds like your design is similar to ours. Please see response above to DobieLover to critique my cleaning plan. How far is your top roost from the roof? What open ventilation do you have for the winter?

Ridgerunner - I read that for better egg fertility that the ratio of hens to roos should be 1 roo to every 8-10 hens? I'd be happy if the pullets we ordered all turn out to be ladies though and we just have one rooster. Hoping that my breed choice will make having more than one rooster not too scrappy?? The entire outside run area will be fully winterized and so they'll have full access to the outside run all winter. It will be protected from any wind, rain, snow. We also blow snow in that whole area all winter and I'd planned on spreading straw over some snow if they want to come out of the run on warmer sunny days. Good point about the litter depth and nest box height vs roost height. We might raise the roof a bit for better access and work on a step-up system for roosting for ease of access.

Does anyone have any suggestions for how much space between roosts?

Again, LOVE this! Thanks so much everyone!! I'll post drawings as soon as they're done. Don't be shy about picking them apart! ⛏

 

[ChickenCanoe]

You guys are all AWESOME!

...

- ChickenCanoe, I read that bigger birds are safer on lower roosts in that it prevents leg issues jumping down off of them. We're still trying to work out roof height vs nest height vs roost height so your input is awesome!

...

...

Does anyone have any suggestions for how much space between roosts?

...

I've read that too but I've never had leg issues from jumping down from high roosts. I think having pine shavings on the floor tends to cushion the landing. However, in one of the buildings, the chickens tend to scratch all the shavings away from the area near the door which is where they like to fly down to when I open the door. They land with a thud on wood with just barely any covering.
If the roosts are all at the same elevation, I think spacing is less of an issue. Probably 18" is sufficient for Aorps. I once had a long low building with roosts about 20" high but that was only not to conflict with jumping up and hitting the roof.

I just think your building would be better if it was a bit taller inside and not elevated so high.

 

[Ridgerunner]

That 10 to 1 ratio for full sized fowl is what many hatcheries use with their pen breeding system. That's where they might keep 20 roosters in one pen with 200 hens. They've fond that in those circumstances a ratio of 10 to 1 pretty much assures all eggs are fertile. You are not in a pen breeding situation.

Dad kept a free ranging flock of 1 rooster and 25 to 30 hens. Practically all those eggs were fertile. Some roosters are more "active" than others. Younger ones are typically more active than older ones though some older boys can keep up. I can't give you any guarantees on fertility, it can vary a lot by rooster. Personally I'd be happy with one rooster with 20 hens until I learned it was a problem.

The general recommendation that I follow is that a roost should be a minimum of 12" off of the wall. If you have two roosts side by side you need a minimum of 12" between the two roosts. More won't hurt but 12" has worked for me.

I read that bigger birds are safer on lower roosts in that it prevents leg issues jumping down off of them.

I have a different take on that. Black Australorps bred and fed for show tend to be pretty big compared to hatchery birds. They have a breed requirement for a certain size. Some people on this forum like to feed their birds a fairly rich diet so they tend to grow big. I don't mean fat, just overall bigger. Those are more at risk when jumping down. There can be another component too. When my chickens get down from the roost they fly. They have enough room to spread their wings and fly down, not just fall when they jump.

I've had Black Australorps and other similar-sized hatchery chickens. They have no problems flying up to and down from my 5' high roosts. They have a large clear landing area and I use wood shavings on the coop dirt floor so yeah, it is soft. I've had a few hens and one full sized adult roster launch from that 5' high roost, fly forward about 8', make a 90 degree turn left, fly out of the coop human door, and land in the run on hard dirt. Those did not get hurt either. As you probably guessed, mine aren't fed that rich a diet.

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

That 10 to 1 ratio for full sized fowl is what many hatcheries use with their pen breeding system. That's where they might keep 20 roosters in one pen with 200 hens. They've fond that in those circumstances a ratio of 10 to 1 pretty much assures all eggs are fertile. You are not in a pen breeding situation.

Dad kept a free ranging flock of 1 rooster and 25 to 30 hens. Practically all those eggs were fertile. Some roosters are more "active" than others. Younger ones are typically more active than older ones though some older boys can keep up. I can't give you any guarantees on fertility, it can vary a lot by rooster. Personally I'd be happy with one rooster with 20 hens until I learned it was a problem.

The general recommendation that I follow is that a roost should be a minimum of 12" off of the wall. If you have two roosts side by side you need a minimum of 12" between the two roosts. More won't hurt but 12" has worked for me.

I read that bigger birds are safer on lower roosts in that it prevents leg issues jumping down off of them.

I have a different take on that. Black Australorps bred and fed for show tend to be pretty big compared to hatchery birds. They have a breed requirement for a certain size. Some people on this forum like to feed their birds a fairly rich diet so they tend to grow big. I don't mean fat, just overall bigger. Those are more at risk when jumping down. There can be another component too. When my chickens get down from the roost they fly. They have enough room to spread their wings and fly down, not just fall when they jump.

I've had Black Australorps and other similar-sized hatchery chickens. They have no problems flying up to and down from my 5' high roosts. They have a large clear landing area and I use wood shavings on the coop dirt floor so yeah, it is soft. I've had a few hens and one full sized adult roster launch from that 5' high roost, fly forward about 8', make a 90 degree turn left, fly out of the coop human door, and land in the run on hard dirt. Those did not get hurt either. As you probably guessed, mine aren't fed that rich a diet.

All super helpful Ridgerunner. Thanks so much! I don't think I'll be sad if I end up with 20 hens and 1 rooster. Technically, I've only ordered one rooster. I thought that if I ended up with an accidental rooster that maybe having two would be ideal, but it sounds like I'll be just fine with one. In my area, this breed isn't very common, so I think if I end up with extra I should be able to find them good homes. Roost height is still something we're working on, so the advice is appreciated. We keep drawing, then thinking, then erasing and re-drawing.

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

Ok, so here's the first draft. I've included some explanations. The panels under the coop will open 180 degrees up to allow access underneath but will be full wood frames that will be flush with the wood base frame to ensure they're predator-proof. We scored the big tinted window on the front for free today. It's 32x80. On the graph paper, each square represents 12 inches.