First Timers Coop Design from Scratch

[aart]

One time a broody hen was inside the main coop but one chick was outside. I think the hen went through the pop door and the chick wasn't paying attention. It did not know to follow her inside. I've seen that kind of thing a few times, not always at bedtime.

Yep, have had that happen.
Had to carry portable nest out to run with opening covered and wait until everyone was in the nest, cover opening and carry back inside, She kept them inside for a few days then they learned the ramp.

In my opinion, whether you use ramps, steps. or anything or nothing, whether the coop is ground level or elevated, in any circumstances, you need to be out there at bedtime and make sure the hen and all the chicks are where they need to be.

But, of course!
Whether they are broody chicks or not.

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

Ok, I'm sure this has been asked a million times before, but since I have your attention.....

We're drawing in ventilation. How far above the roosts should we have the majority of our winter ventilation? From roost to roof, how much space will keep them far enough out of any winter airflow??

 

[rosemarythyme]

Ok, I'm sure this has been asked a million times before, but since I have your attention.....

We're drawing in ventilation. How far above the roosts should we have the majority of our winter ventilation? From roost to roof, how much space will keep them far enough out of any winter airflow??

I want to say somewhere around 16-24" would be good BUT the answer varies a lot based on your wind direction and flow at the coop site, the orientation of your vents/windows, if there's buffers, etc. For example my top roost sits directly between two windows but drafts aren't an issue, as my primary wind direction blows parallel to the windows. On the side facing primary wind direction, there's no windows at all, just a gable vent and floor vent with louvered covers to buffer wind.

 

[aart]

We're drawing in ventilation. How far above the roosts should we have the majority of our winter ventilation? From roost to roof, how much space will keep them far enough out of any winter airflow??

No hard numbers work here, depends on site weather patterns, but as high as possible...
....another reason for a walk-in coop, higher roof(with big overhangs for soffit venting).

Oh, and....Welcome to BYC!
Maybe I missed it, but.....
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

No hard numbers work here, depends on site weather patterns, but as high as possible...
....another reason for a walk-in coop, higher roof(with big overhangs for soffit venting).

Oh, and....Welcome to BYC!
Maybe I missed it, but.....
Where in this world are you located?
Climate, and time of year, is almost always a factor.
Please add your general geographical location to your profile.
It's easy to do, and then it's always there!
View attachment 2047406

Thank you!! I've added details. I'm in southern Ontario, Canada. Low temps get down to -30C or -22F. The direction that most of our wind comes from will be in the covered run that we plan on covering with clear vapor barrier during the winter months. Currently, our plan only allows for 24-30 inches above the roosts where most of our high ventilation will be......

 

[Ridgerunner]

In an 8x12 coop that should be high enough. Like practically everything to do with chickens magic numbers don't work. Each situation is unique. Wind direction, is a building or trees protecting that side, how the coop and ventilation are built, whether it is turbulent or smooth flow, on and on. Mine is 3 feet. Roosts are 5' high and the panels that make up the walls are 8' long.

 

[NewAustralorpMom]

In an 8x12 coop that should be high enough. Like practically everything to do with chickens magic numbers don't work. Each situation is unique. Wind direction, is a building or trees protecting that side, how the coop and ventilation are built, whether it is turbulent or smooth flow, on and on. Mine is 3 feet. Roosts are 5' high and the panels that make up the walls are 8' long.

I guess it's always better to build in extra ventilation and have to cover it than not to build enough into the design, right? I mean, ideally, I'd like to build the perfect coop right off the bat, but I'm sure we'll have to make some kind of modifications once we're living with it.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I guess it's always better to build in extra ventilation and have to cover it than not to build enough into the design, right?

I think so.

I mean, ideally, I'd like to build the perfect coop right off the bat, but I'm sure we'll have to make some kind of modifications once we're living with it.

Even years later I sometimes change things. That's a big reason I like to build big as compared to barely big enough. You can change things if you need to. If you max out the coop to start with you don't have any flexibility.

 

[aart]

Even years later I sometimes change things. That's a big reason I like to build big as compared to barely big enough. You can change things if you need to. If you max out the coop to start with you don't have any flexibility.

Absolutely!
Also a good reason to use screws(deck and drywall) to attach everything,
much much easier to change things later.

I just had to 'fix' part of a poop board, glad I used screws and packed the head slots with beeswax(much easier to get out than petrified poop-haha!)

 

[jspeese]

I have had both raised floor (my present one) and ground level coops and IMHO there are pros and cons to each. A raised floor is easier to clean and because it's solid, digging and burrowing predators cannot dig through it. A solid cement floor works too but things like rats can nest under it. My floor is only raised high enough to be off the moist ground; my wife's mixed Pomeranian loves to go under it. He can make himself useful by keeping any other animals away. Although I know some folks don't like it, I used salt-treated lumber for the floor; termites are a real problem in the South. A ground level floor is probably your best option for ducks, which don't like to climb, and they say nests built on soil provide better hatching conditions. But if you have a lot of rain and poor drainage it could be a problem. And you might need to take precautions against digging predators. I have an attached 320 square foot run with a top, but I could in principle confine my chickens in my present coop if I had too. It is well-ventilated, with hardware cloth to keep out even small predators, and nothing could dig into it. And their feed and water is in it.