Fixing gaps in flooring?

[KilbournFarmhouse]

We are almost done building our first coop and we've run into one problem that has us a bit stumped. The floor in the coop is over a portion of the run. Our cutting skills fell short and our floor isn't quite square. I was planning to caulk all the edges, but some of the worse areas have gaps of an inch or so. I'm worried about drafts and critters.

I was considering a few options to address this:

• Recut the floor, but I think we'd have the same issue
• Mount trim around the bottom of the floor on all sides to cover the gaps
• Caulk, but would need to use backer rod or something else for the larger gaps

Any recommendations or suggestions?

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I'm unsure why you even care, honestly. There's a 4' x 4' hole in my hen house floor - its formed in a "U" around a central shaft over a "downstairs" for the ducks.

As a floor, its unlikely to be a significant draft source. If the gaps are close to the edge, they aren't going to catch toes there. But if it bothers you, grabs some dirt cheap roll linoleum and slap it down, bringing it up the sides a bit. Will make it very easy to clean out the coop in the future, until it starts to get brittle in the corners.

If that's more than what you want to spend, don't use trim. That $#!+ is expensive, and usually made from untreated white wood, prone to splitting and rot. Use flashing instead, either aluminum or vinyl, and just tack it up. Much cheaper, and designed for the environment.

If you DO use metal flashing, wear gloves, the edges can be razor sharp.

 

[KilbournFarmhouse]

I'm unsure why you even care, honestly. There's a 4' x 4' hole in my hen house floor - its formed in a "U" around a central shaft over a "downstairs" for the ducks.

As a floor, its unlikely to be a significant draft source. If the gaps are close to the edge, they aren't going to catch toes there.

I'm concerned about our winter temps and the bigger gaps being an issue in the climate. Maybe it isn't one. You already mentioned issues of getting toes stuck, but one of the largest gaps is just inside the door.

I do have some extra linoleum, so that is an option I hadn't thought of. We'd paint or seal any wood trim we add to help with durability, and likely use furring strips or similar not actual trim. Flashing could def be a good option. Thanks!

 

[21hens-incharge]

Pics please.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

I'm concerned about our winter temps and the bigger gaps being an issue in the climate. Maybe it isn't one. You already mentioned issues of getting toes stuck, but one of the largest gaps is just inside the door.

Just inside the door is a good place not to have a gap, agree you should cover that one.

and you are in Chicago. Your climate is no danger to your birds. Saskatchewan? Siberia? Sure. Chicago, not so much. Your birds will happily traipse about, once fully feathered, in weather we would consider downright painful. Just keep them dry and out of serious drafts. A little gap by a doorway is not that - heck, unless you've built really well, you will likely get more airflow around the door then across the bottom of the hen house and then up thru a gap in the floor - and even then, its going to want to continue in that direction of travel, not turn 90 degrees and blow across your roosts.

 

[KilbournFarmhouse]

Pics please.

Here are some. The coop itself is smaller (about 4x4) and elevated so it was hard for me to get a good angle, but I hope these help.

I'd like to fix them both for the overall finished look as well as addressing any other possible concerns.

 

[ColtHandorf]

I don't think drafts will be much of an issue, however rodents will certainly take advantage of that to gain entry to the coop. And if they feel like the gap should be enlarged they will do some remodeling for you. I'd close the gaps for that reason alone.

 

[KilbournFarmhouse]

I don't think drafts will be much of an issue, however rodents will certainly take advantage of that to gain entry to the coop. And if they feel like the gap should be enlarged they will do some remodeling for you. I'd close the gaps for that reason alone.

I definitely don't want any more friends in my coop than the ones I built it for!

 

[21hens-incharge]

Here are some. The coop itself is smaller (about 4x4) and elevated so it was hard for me to get a good angle, but I hope these help.

I'd like to fix them both for the overall finished look as well as addressing any other possible concerns.

I see how those cuts posed some issues.
The easiest way to cover them is using 1x2's or 1x3's and laying those snug to the walls. The bummer is it creates a ridge to have to clean along.

We all end up building a "second" coop eventually. When you do that......build a floor frame and lay the square or rectangle of plywood on top then add legs if making a raised coop. Then the walls get added on top of that platform. It eliminates those tricky cuts.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Here are some. The coop itself is smaller (about 4x4) and elevated so it was hard for me to get a good angle, but I hope these help.

I'd like to fix them both for the overall finished look as well as addressing any other possible concerns.

I'm guessing those gaps sit above framing, so likely aren't open to the outside at all? The only concern from them is that chicken droppings, moisture, etc might accumulate there over time - like dirt in the corners of a garage - till it starts to rot the plywood out from the cut edges. If you painted your cut edges, you won't even have that concern for many years to come.

Otherwise, anything can be used to fill or cover - paint, caulk, flashing, trim - just consider what those materials will be exposed to and choose accordingly.

when you build you next coop - and you will, consider setting the floor on the framing, then erecting the walls on that - just as they stick build a house. If needed to raise the house, you can either set the floor framing on piers (concrete block, PT 4x4s, etc) or attach legs to the outside so they don't become a hassle for your internal framing and decking. My own raised coop was built like a deck off the back of my barn. Screwed in my ledger board, framed out the flooring, lifted and supported into place, sunk and concreted my 4x4 posts on the outside of the floor framing. Levelled and secured at the desired heights (the ground was uneven), dropped on my floor panels (4x8, 4x4, 4x8) and secured, then attached my walls to the inside of the 4x4s. Trimmed the tops of the 4x4s to wall height, attached my rafters, installed purlins, laid on decking.

I'll make some changes for my next one as it will have some differing purpose (more storage, less sleeping) as a bachelor pad, quarantine pod, or single breed house and run) - but the method will remain largely the same - absent the ledger board, as it will be several hundred feet from the existing barn and run.